at what rpm does the gen2 stop pulling in 6th gear (stock bike)

I believe 6th grear restricted is 10,600 to keep her at 186 and below. I also think the tach is around 600 RPMs high. So doing the math if your tach read 11K really it was around 10.4 and that would put you right around 180 almost topped out just stay in it till you feel the limiter next time.
 
Wiki says the Gen II runs out around 193 v. 186. I believe it. Anyway , I haven't ran my Gen II out, so I'm absolutely no help :laugh:
 
Dam sure wish there was room for 11, in 6th in the sf bay area. I can't even go down the road in 4 to 5 thou. and not run over cars. :laugh:
 
You were at 11k in 6th and had time to look at Tach? You crossed two football fields in the time it took you to do that. That's how fast you were going.
 
yes! i always watch the tach we all know speedos are incorrect where i live there is LONG SRAIGHTS of road with no one around at times.::thumbsup:
 
There is no accurate way to really judge your speed based off of the tach(even if it did read 100% correctly). There are too many factors.
Wind, temperature, humidity, rider height and weight, rider tuck/aerodynamics, mirrors on or off/aerodynamics, road surface flat, up, or downhill...no matter how slight, ect. ect.
What the bike is capable off vs. what the rider and conditions allow are very different.
A stock gen2 under perfect conditions is capable of doing 186mph with at least one mile of road to get there. With the restrictions off and stock gearing(again with perfect conditions)mid 190's are possibble.
Just an fyi too, 200mph is not possible with stock gearing.
Gps should get you within a couple mph of what you are really doing.:beerchug:
 
In theory the Gen II exceeds 192 M.P.H. at 10.5K R.P.M. s according to gearingcommander.com


To OP, get a GPS, it will capture max speed.
 
There is no accurate way to really judge your speed based off of the tach(even if it did read 100% correctly). There are too many factors.
Wind, temperature, humidity, rider height and weight, rider tuck/aerodynamics, mirrors on or off/aerodynamics, road surface flat, up, or downhill...no matter how slight, ect. ect.
What the bike is capable off vs. what the rider and conditions allow are very different.
A stock gen2 under perfect conditions is capable of doing 186mph with at least one mile of road to get there. With the restrictions off and stock gearing(again with perfect conditions)mid 190's are possibble.
Just an fyi too, 200mph is not possible with stock gearing.
Gps should get you within a couple mph of what you are really doing.:beerchug:

I think the tach method can be very close. Of course a GPS is best. By tach, unless you have changed gearing or tire size you should be close. If not, there is something mechanically wrong like the clutch slipping. You are talking about a mechanical system of gears ultimately ending up with a tire against the road. "Wind, temperature, humidity, rider height and weight, rider tuck/aerodynamics, mirrors on or off/aerodynamics, road surface flat, up, or downhill...no matter how slight, ect. ect." Will affect power to that gear or how much power is required to go faster and reach maximum speed but the tach should not lie, it will just be lower.
 
I think the tach method can be very close. Of course a GPS is best. By tach, unless you have changed gearing or tire size you should be close. If not, there is something mechanically wrong like the clutch slipping. You are talking about a mechanical system of gears ultimately ending up with a tire against the road. "Wind, temperature, humidity, rider height and weight, rider tuck/aerodynamics, mirrors on or off/aerodynamics, road surface flat, up, or downhill...no matter how slight, ect. ect." Will affect power to that gear or how much power is required to go faster and reach maximum speed but the tach should not lie, it will just be lower.

The engine can continue to rev higher because it is working harder.
However, if any of the conditions above are present to limit it in any way you will not achieve the same speed.

Same principle as driving a truck at 60mph in high gear and it's taching say 2k rpm.
Now pull a 1500lb trailer at 60mph with same truck in same gear, you will tach more to accomplish same speed.
Just like a 300lb rider vs a 150lb rider in 6th gear trying to go as fast as possible.
 
The engine can continue to rev higher because it is working harder.
However, if any of the conditions above are present to limit it in any way you will not achieve the same speed.

Same principle as driving a truck at 60mph in high gear and it's taching say 2k rpm.
Now pull a 1500lb trailer at 60mph with same truck in same gear, you will tach more to accomplish same speed.
Just like a 300lb rider vs a 150lb rider in 6th gear trying to go as fast as possible.

Not really seeing your logic with this one...
RPM is based off the crank speed, The crank spins the clutch basket in which goes through the transmission to the rear wheel. UNLESS you have clutch slippage its all the same. I can see if the clutch was wore out and slipping then yes the RPM will be higher. Prove this point by going 60MPH and look at your tach, now find a steep upgrade incline and do the same at 60 MPH I am betting that your RPM is the same.
 
Not really seeing your logic with this one...
RPM is based off the crank speed, The crank spins the clutch basket in which goes through the transmission to the rear wheel. UNLESS you have clutch slippage its all the same. I can see if the clutch was wore out and slipping then yes the RPM will be higher. Prove this point by going 60MPH and look at your tach, now find a steep upgrade incline and do the same at 60 MPH I am betting that your RPM is the same.

It goes along with my original statement, of all the contributing factors.
Like if the weather is crap, the engine won't run as efficiantly.
I'm also betting that the 150lb guy's rpms at 60mph are less than the 300lb guy up a steep incline in the same gear and speed.
Perhaps my wording isn't quiet what it should be, and I do understand your point.
But you can't say that no matter what, any busa with any size rider(stock or modified, as long as they are the same)will go the same speed at x rpm in any gear. It's just not realistic.
The OP was asking at what rpm in 6th what speed he was going. There is no universal answer that will always be exactly the same:beerchug:
 
In theory the Gen II exceeds 192 M.P.H. at 10.5K R.P.M. s according to gearingcommander.com


To OP, get a GPS, it will capture max speed.

you keep bringing them up but if i remember correctly gearingcommander.com uses speeds based off of runs on a dyno which has no wind elevation changes etc and your only spinning a wheel your not propelling mass forwards
 
you keep bringing them up but if i remember correctly gearingcommander.com uses speeds based off of runs on a dyno which has no wind elevation changes etc

I'm not a fan of gearing commander for several reasons.
A derestricted stock gen2 under perfect conditions is also capable of a little more than 192mph.
 
I'm not a fan of gearing commander for several reasons.
A derestricted stock gen2 under perfect conditions is also capable of a little more than 192mph.

i agree i mean there are so many variations down to the chain lube your using reducing friction condition of bearings, weight of rider, aerodynamics of riding position, blah blah blah
 
had my 2011 busa at 11,000 rpm in 6th gear today wondering if i was at 180 mph or above?
The speed limiter on the gen1 kicks in at 10,200 in sixth gear.......thats about 10,400-500 on the tach. I'm pretty sure gen2's are the same....same 186mph limiter in 6th. If your tach went to 11k in sixth your speed limiter is either bypassed or not working...which is a good thing :beerchug:
 
I'm also betting that the 150lb guy's rpms at 60mph are less than the 300lb guy up a steep incline in the same gear and speed.
That makes zero sense unless you are saying the clutch would be slipping for the heavier rider ,and even then, it's not making sense.
 
mikbusa said:
That makes zero sense unless you are saying the clutch would be slipping for the heavier rider ,and even then, it's not making sense.

At 60 I don't think you will see a difference in rpm between rider weight but at 180 there will be a big difference as there is more drag on the bike and more weight to pull.
 
That makes zero sense unless you are saying the clutch would be slipping for the heavier rider ,and even then, it's not making sense.

So, if I weighed 800lbs the busa would pull me to the same speed at the same rpm in the same gear as if I weighed 100lbs? I think not. It takes more power to move more weight.
The engine will have to work harder to accomplish the same thing.
Just like the guy who is 7' tall and 300lbs trying to go the same speed and rpm on the bike as the guy who is 5' tall and 150lbs.
As I said before, apparently I'm not wording the point I'm trying to make correctly.
So lets go back to the OP's original question.
He wanted to know what speed he was going when his tach was reading X rpms.
You mean to tell me that any busa with the same gearing and mods(or just stock vs stock) will do the exact same speed at the exact same rpms, Regardless of conditions like temp, humidity, wind, elavation, rider size, ect. ?
No way, no how. Not happening. You'll get in the ballpark, but not an exact speed.
 
Dude, your wrong here!! The only variation in RPM would come from clutch or tire slippage. All goes down the line from the crank. Crankshaft to the rear sprocket

An engine doesnt care if its pulling 90lbs or 900 lbs. It may not reach top RPM under extreme heavy loads but it doesnt make 2 flying f'n watermelon seeds as stated with no clutch or tire slippage
 
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