So it has been over a month.....

[Rongotti]

Since I stipped my drain bolt on my oil pan. This Florida weather is killing me!!!!!!

I bought a used oilpan off of another spot for $51 shipped
Now I just need to get the darned thing in. I was hoping one of my buddies would help me as he is pretty good with a wrench but he apparently doesn't want to help. I either have to wing this on my own or keep going on without a bike

Is this pretty cut and dry? Just remove the headers and exhaust and then unbolt the pan and bolt on the new one, fill with oil and I'm done?
I don't want to screw anything up, as I obviously did when i changed the oil in the first place.
Thanks guys!

 

[kitchener rider]

on a 99-07 its 14 bolts and a gasket...7ft/lb torque

 

[Rongotti]

on a 99-07 its 14 bolts and a gasket...7ft/lb torque

I am glad you said gasket, cause i sure as heck would not have thought to get one!

 

[kromdom]

I am glad you said gasket, cause i sure as heck would not have thought to get one!

One more thing to get (helps to NOT STRIP stuff in the future):

 

[StrtRac3r]

Just take your time, take pictures, label baggies of bolts, and clean your surfaces of any remaining old gasket material. Exhaust can be a pain, so make sure you have a good scrubber and solvent (if it's a slip together) and some PB blaster to lube it up. Good luck and if ya get stuck pm me and I'll give you my number to text or call if needed.

 

[rudeboy109]

16.5 lbs only on the drain bolt

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

you might want to pull the pick up off while you are in there and make sure it is clean.

 

[RedBusarider]

I know that everyone scared you into not using a over sized self tapping drain plug.
They said you would get metal shavings in there and ruin your engine.

I did exactly that and have never had a problem. You could be riding right now.

P.S. I did the SAME thing you did. I bought a used oil pan. Then I decided that I would try the double over size drain plug.
I did that and used sealer on the threads and let it dry. It has never leaked once and I have never had a problem.
If you lived closer I would have come over and done it for you for free. Oh well.

If your friend can't help you, you could still get a drain plug. Call auto parts stores and get a price etc. They may even have tips for
you to set your mind at ease. I'm sure they see this a lot. It's your call. It would save you a lot of time and work.

JMHO

 

[Trout]

If you are going to the trouble of removing the pan, why not just repair the threads on your pan? Sell the new one and get your money back.

Stripped drain plugs are not a new thing. Back in the day, working as an auto mechanic, I saw stripped drain plugs almost weekly... especially those stupid Fords with a big 7/8" plug. 7/8" wrenches are BIG and most people would lean on them too hard for the little fine sheet metal threads in the pan.

Anyway, there are many choices out there for stripped drain plug repair. Your local auto parts store will probably have 5 options.

 

[Rongotti]

I tried to rethread it with the same bolt and use some sealant but that didn't work. I am worried abt the metal shavings and I got rid of the old oil so I don't have any to flush them out with. Ugh this is so frustrating, I should have just paid the dealer to change the oil!

 

[The Big Red One]

I tried to rethread it with the same bolt and use some sealant but that didn't work. I am worried abt the metal shavings and I got rid of the old oil so I don't have any to flush them out with. Ugh this is so frustrating, I should have just paid the dealer to change the oil!

You just need a torque wrench Ron I feel your pain tho Go get a Harbor Freight 3/8 inch drive ft/lb torque wrench for 9.99 on sale. And pick up the 1/4 inch drive inch/lb as well, you'll need that for you're oil pan bolts. The torque wrench on your oil pan bolt would have saved all this trouble, but at least get those 2 for future needs okay? Pulling all the parts off to get to the oil pan isn't going to be as easy for you as an experienced wrench, since you're kind of learning on the fly. I would try one of the alternate methods before swapping pans.

If you do swap pans get a new pan gasket, and make sure to get all the old gasket material off the engine case and pan. Use a paint scraper GENTLY if you have one to get the old gasket off, and soak the stuck gasket with wd40, don't carve up the gasket surfaces. And put the gasket on dry, no sealants of any kind unless the busa manual calls for it, which if I remember right it doesn't. Lay the gasket on top of the pan with a couple bolts pushed through to line it up, then as you hold the bolts in place raise the pan up to the engine and thread those first couple bolts in enough to hold the pan up. And remember you'll need new exhaust gaskets, you can risk re-using the old, but do you want to take the chance of a leak and having to do it all again? New gaskets for the win Be sure and pull the radiator and oil cooler as far as you can back and gently bungee them out of the way. I cover the radiator and oil cooler with cardboard to protect the fins, they are very easy to smash up otherwise. I haven't had to pull my busa pan off yet, but I've done my other bikes and they're similiar. Make sure you watch for any dowels and o-rings that may come out and don't forget where they go. And make sure the pick-up and other parts are firmly in place before you mount the new pan up. Try and torque the bolts evenly in a cross pattern, especially as your finishing tightening them up. And use the 1/4 inch drive inch/lb torque wrench you're going to get from Harbor Freight to tighten them up....use the specs from the service manual. Good luck man you can do it

 

[Strife]

Be sure to check the threads real good on the "Used" one you purchased.

 

[kitchener rider]

keep the old pan and heli- coil it... then you have a back up. heli coil always stronger than original thread... easy to do.. drill out old thread. tap hole.. locktite thread insert into threaded hole( red loctite) break little tab off of thread insert after its installed and your done.

 

[Rongotti]

You just need a torque wrench Ron I feel your pain tho Go get a Harbor Freight 3/8 inch drive ft/lb torque wrench for 9.99 on sale. And pick up the 1/4 inch drive inch/lb as well, you'll need that for you're oil pan bolts. The torque wrench on your oil pan bolt would have saved all this trouble, but at least get those 2 for future needs okay? Pulling all the parts off to get to the oil pan isn't going to be as easy for you as an experienced wrench, since you're kind of learning on the fly. I would try one of the alternate methods before swapping pans.

If you do swap pans get a new pan gasket, and make sure to get all the old gasket material off the engine case and pan. Use a paint scraper GENTLY if you have one to get the old gasket off, and soak the stuck gasket with wd40, don't carve up the gasket surfaces. And put the gasket on dry, no sealants of any kind unless the busa manual calls for it, which if I remember right it doesn't. Lay the gasket on top of the pan with a couple bolts pushed through to line it up, then as you hold the bolts in place raise the pan up to the engine and thread those first couple bolts in enough to hold the pan up. And remember you'll need new exhaust gaskets, you can risk re-using the old, but do you want to take the chance of a leak and having to do it all again? New gaskets for the win Be sure and pull the radiator and oil cooler as far as you can back and gently bungee them out of the way. I cover the radiator and oil cooler with cardboard to protect the fins, they are very easy to smash up otherwise. I haven't had to pull my busa pan off yet, but I've done my other bikes and they're similiar. Make sure you watch for any dowels and o-rings that may come out and don't forget where they go. And make sure the pick-up and other parts are firmly in place before you mount the new pan up. Try and torque the bolts evenly in a cross pattern, especially as your finishing tightening them up. And use the 1/4 inch drive inch/lb torque wrench you're going to get from Harbor Freight to tighten them up....use the specs from the service manual. Good luck man you can do it

Now you have me completely terified of doing this lol. Maybe I just need to stop the bleeding and pay the dealer to do this for me :-( I actually have a harbor freight torque wrench that's the worst part of it all, every other torque wrench I have used clickes when it hits the limiter, not this one, it just keeps going. What a huge eff up this ended up being :-(

 

[ResidentEvil]

where in FL are you ?

 

[MetalDisorder]

yea what he said .. there are lotsa Busa owners around to help

 

[kitchener rider]

its an easy fix, just try it..

 

[Sous]

I only torque my drain plug down to 15 lbs using a Craftsman wrench similar to the one above. I also change the crush washer about every third oil change. This method has been working great for me for years.

 

[05 Busa LE]

You could probably do it yourself, but at this point, is there any reason not to take it to the dealer? You'll pay, but it'll be done. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[Rongotti]

where in FL are you ?

Jacksonville