07 OE Cam Chain Tensioner Reinstall??

[tnarmyng]

Uphold the cylinder head cover and the CCT from my motor. NOTHING ELSE WAS TURNED. I stopped RIGHT HERE and decided against pulling the head, and I'd just check valve clearance and disassemble top end if necessary.

The manual shows a completely different CCT (guessing the 99/00 version?) than what my 07 has.

]

Anyone know the install proc. for mine?

 

[tnarmyng]

Haha typo....

1ST line:

I pulled the head cover and CCT*

 

[tnarmyng]

The back side of the automatic tensioner I have has a 12mm bolt headed toward the cams. It holds a spring and a rod which push the tensioner head into the chain.

I took those off of the tensioner, pressed in the "ratcheting" groove catch release to compress the tensioner.. Installed the 2 - 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the head and then put the rod and spring in the rear of the tensioner with the 12mm bolt last. It clicked down the teeth and tightened my cam chain. Done. I think. Seems right.

 

[tnarmyng]

Unrelated, but not much on it in the forum so off topic I go.

My flywheel has a tiny dent in it. Bike went down with PO, maybe it got it then.

Is this enough to worry about? It definitely looks worse in the pictures than POV for sure. Not many options for balancing in Chattanooga area.

 

[GIXERHP]

If its not rubbing on the stator you should be fine

 

[Spudley]

The back side of the automatic tensioner I have has a 12mm bolt headed toward the cams. It holds a spring and a rod which push the tensioner head into the chain.

I took those off of the tensioner, pressed in the "ratcheting" groove catch release to compress the tensioner.. Installed the 2 - 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the head and then put the rod and spring in the rear of the tensioner with the 12mm bolt last. It clicked down the teeth and tightened my cam chain. Done. I think. Seems right.

Then one should rotate the engine clockwise 720 degrees, or two full 360 degree turns for any last minute clicks from the tensioner. If the two camshaft gear alignment arrows are 15 pins apart, and the hash on the crank starter gear, and the cutout on the cover window line up, you're golden.

If you find that the starter gear and the cut out in the cover are not in alignment, or either of the two cam shaft arrows are not 15 pins apart reset the camshaft, and the crank starter gear with the cover cut out and reinstall your tensioner again. The chain on the exhaust camshaft gear and the starter gear should be nice and snug when those marks are aligned and with the cam shaft gear chain guide installed you should have snug tension between the intake and the exhaust camshaft gear. Make sure the starter gear hash mark, and the cam arrows are correctly aligned before sealing things up.

Lastly, do not push the cam chain tensioner with a screwdriver or any other object. The spring is more than enough to initially set the tension on the chain. When the oil pressure builds up and the guides wear-in it may click itself tighter, but don't give it any help. You'll only spider crack the chain guides.

 

[tnarmyng]

If its not rubbing on the stator you should be fine

Those look pretty consistent. Seems like it was rubbing to me. Wbu?

 

[tnarmyng]

 

[GIXERHP]

If it where me i would clean everything then set the cover on the dowel pins. Then have some one turn the motor over slowly with the plugs out. If it's hitting you will feel it move the cover on the pins. If so replace it.

 

[Spudley]

Please set and check timing chain with spark plugs out. You do not need compression interfering with initial tension setting. I forgot to mention that. It also makes pumping up initial oil pressure easier.

 

[tnarmyng]

Then one should rotate the engine clockwise 720 degrees, or two full 360 degree turns for any last minute clicks from the tensioner. If the two camshaft gear alignment arrows are 15 pins apart, and the hash on the crank starter gear, and the cutout on the cover window line up, you're golden.

If you find that the starter gear and the cut out in the cover are not in alignment, or either of the two cam shaft arrows are not 15 pins apart reset the camshaft, and the crank starter gear with the cover cut out and reinstall your tensioner again. The chain on the exhaust camshaft gear and the starter gear should be nice and snug when those marks are aligned and with the cam shaft gear chain guide installed you should have snug tension between the intake and the exhaust camshaft gear. Make sure the starter gear hash mark, and the cam arrows are correctly aligned before sealing things up.

Lastly, do not push the cam chain tensioner with a screwdriver or any other object. The spring is more than enough to initially set the tension on the chain. When the oil pressure builds up and the guides wear-in it may click itself tighter, but don't give it any help. You'll only spider crack the chain guides.

HELL of an instructable! Thank you, sir!

Please set and check timing chain with spark plugs out. You do not need compression interfering with initial tension setting. I forgot to mention that. It also makes pumping up initial oil pressure easier.

Damn, I was < this close to setting with them in and buttoning everything back up. Thank you

 

[Spudley]

Every time you turn the starter gear two full revolutions, 720°, the marks will lineup. If you turn it only one revolution, 360° the marks will not lineup. So when you have your initial settings and all your marks are lined up pay attention to how many times you turn the starter gear. Watch the mark on the starter gear so you see it in the little notch at 360°, when the cams aren't aligned or lining up, then be very careful when you line it up a second time. The marks on the camshafts should all line up on the second rotation.

Do this exercise as many times as you need to ensure that your camshaft marks, the pin number, and the starter gear hash and notch are all in agreement.

 

[Spudley]

 

[Spudley]

 

[Spudley]

I may be over simplifying here for you, I just want to make sure it's clear for you.

Lineup the hash mark in the little hole above the bigger hole with the bolt that you're turning clockwise. The little hole has a notch cut in it, and that hash mark on the starter gear will be easy to see lined up in that notch. That hash, and the notch, should be visible when your marks on the camshafts, and the 15 pins, are lined up and the arrows are all in agreement.

The first couple times you do this exercise, it's a little tedious, but if you get it exactly right, you won't have any questions when you start the motor. Everything will work as it should.

 

[Berlin Germany]

The back side of the automatic tensioner I have has a 12mm bolt headed toward the cams. It holds a spring and a rod which push the tensioner head into the chain.

I took those off of the tensioner, pressed in the "ratcheting" groove catch release to compress the tensioner.. Installed the 2 - 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the head and then put the rod and spring in the rear of the tensioner with the 12mm bolt last. It clicked down the teeth and tightened my cam chain. Done. I think. Seems right.

the 10mm are 6 mm allen screws and get only 10 Nm max
the big clogg in the tens.´s rear gets around 15-20 Nm max

this pic is the gen2 tens.

the 2nd pic

is the one from gen1 from ´01-´07 and was built in at the ´99/´00 too after a spec. bulletin - the former ´99/´00 tens. were "faulty".

and the supporting oil-hose should be put off before dismanteling the tens from cyl. head
the screw get around 15-20 Nm
to be 100% sure watch the torque values in the manual!

steel screws in alu and too much torque on em is deathifying to the threads in the alu
use always a fitting torque wrench
e.g. for the 6 mm screws - the torque wrench should have a setting range of 4-20 Nm so 10 are in the middle what def. is the best.
and so on

 

[tnarmyng]

What do the Gen 1 2001 to 2007 built tensioner version look like?

 

[Spudley]

Gen I tensioner ?, It has the little ratchet tab on one side that when you press it down allows the plunger to be pushed all the way in. You can only push it all the way in though, when you take off the 12 mm cap screw, the pin, and the spring. You did that part perfectly. Mounted in place with the plunger all the way in, retracted, as long as your marks are lined on the cam gears, and starter clutch, put the cap screw with the spring and the pin back in and you'll hear it click out a couple times as you tighten the cap screw. Once the cap screw is tight, then start your rotations at the starter clutch to check your alignments and your chain tension will be controlled by the tensioner. No chance of jumping teeth. No room.

 

[tnarmyng]

Gen I tensioner ?, It has the little ratchet tab on one side that when you press it down allows the plunger to be pushed all the way in. You can only push it all the way in though, when you take off the 12 mm cap screw, the pin, and the spring. You did that part perfectly. Mounted in place with the plunger all the way in, retracted, as long as your marks are lined on the cam gears, and starter clutch, put the cap screw with the spring and the pin back in and you'll hear it click out a couple times as you tighten the cap screw. Once the cap screw is tight, then start your rotations at the starter clutch to check your alignments and your chain tension will be controlled by the tensioner. No chance of jumping teeth. No room.

About to knock out the "locked-tite" timing set. Thanks bud!!

 

[Spudley]

You bet. This part of the build is what it all comes down to. If your camshafts and crankshaft are in synchronization everything works like it supposed to. If you're a tooth off, or things aren't aligned correctly it won't run very good, and you'll have to tear it all back apart and do it over.

Good luck !.