1340cc crank - 1299cc engine
- Thread starter Revvv
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Revvv
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Thanks guys.
I am trying to build a sleeper. I want to keep the stock pipes and airbox. I don't want nitrous or a turbo on this bike. I want to pull up to the track with a stock busa that has the ability to run low 9s or high 8s.
I'm thinking I can stroke the engine with a 2 over crank, run larger cams, slightly work the head, and change the valves for a good increase in horsepower and torque. The biggest obstacle would be getting the air / fuel mixture right.
I am trying to build a sleeper. I want to keep the stock pipes and airbox. I don't want nitrous or a turbo on this bike. I want to pull up to the track with a stock busa that has the ability to run low 9s or high 8s.
I'm thinking I can stroke the engine with a 2 over crank, run larger cams, slightly work the head, and change the valves for a good increase in horsepower and torque. The biggest obstacle would be getting the air / fuel mixture right.
Revvv
Registered
What is your opinion on this?
Like I was saying before; I need all the information and help I can get.
I don't want to build a bike that I can't ride reliably or get the numbers I'm after.
I think you will find most builders using stock valves until the 1430/1507 range.
I think my bike has some 9.1s in it with 91 octane pump gas. It went 9.36 on the 7th pass after putting it together. I'm at 235lbs. I put 230 miles on it yesterday.
I think my bike has some 9.1s in it with 91 octane pump gas. It went 9.36 on the 7th pass after putting it together. I'm at 235lbs. I put 230 miles on it yesterday.
You going to need something like this HMF low mount system to run into your stock gutted mid-pipes to better able the engine combo to make the power , lower cylinder head temp and be able to tune it better being it will be cammed up a good bit .
drums_till_I_die
Registered
if you go with the 2mm stroked crank (08) then wouldint you need the same pistons and rods out of an 08 motor ...... or els you pistons would be poping out the top of the cylinders 2mm more then stock ... wouldint that caues valve clearance issues
i may be wrong since i have no experiance building busa engines but ive rebuilt alot of other bike and car motors to know that if the valve clearance between each piston top is critical since if you get it wrong ..... you would have to start all over again and pull all of your nicely built motor apart to replace a bunch of bent valves ...... or is there a way around usuing the 08 rods+pistons?
,Justin
,Justin
drums_till_I_die,
You do not have to use the 2008 rods or pistons . Just exact the deck height with a spacer plate or base gaskets like any other engine build . You can even use the stock 1st gen pistons but Wiseco or JE flat tops are a better way to up the compression .
This +2mm crank, when using std bore makes for a great street engine when the correct aftermarket cams are chosen and missing is the cooling and or cranking problems of the 1397's . The Wiseco 1363 pistons would make another good street set-up with the +2mm 2008 crank because of their design and timing edge height or rather , distance . I'd rather have a tight deck height std bore than a 1397 with two or more base gaskets to lower compression and help cranking as my street bike engine . Holds true for a stroker . Others have different needs and use their built engines different than i so opinions will vary .
I'm a bit partial to the +5mm cranked std bores these days though for my uses at same basic price of the OEM 2mm . Torque a plenty with well thought out 1401's using just OEM pistons
You do not have to use the 2008 rods or pistons . Just exact the deck height with a spacer plate or base gaskets like any other engine build . You can even use the stock 1st gen pistons but Wiseco or JE flat tops are a better way to up the compression .
This +2mm crank, when using std bore makes for a great street engine when the correct aftermarket cams are chosen and missing is the cooling and or cranking problems of the 1397's . The Wiseco 1363 pistons would make another good street set-up with the +2mm 2008 crank because of their design and timing edge height or rather , distance . I'd rather have a tight deck height std bore than a 1397 with two or more base gaskets to lower compression and help cranking as my street bike engine . Holds true for a stroker . Others have different needs and use their built engines different than i so opinions will vary .
I'm a bit partial to the +5mm cranked std bores these days though for my uses at same basic price of the OEM 2mm . Torque a plenty with well thought out 1401's using just OEM pistons
SLEEPERBUSA
Registered
Revvv,
Listen to the Professor and Mountianmotor.
NO need for bigger valves.
Bore it out to a 1441cc, port the head, Megacycle .385/.385 cams and a nice "camo" header and you are at or over 220hp, with a PCIIIusb and a custom map. If you are gonna stay short, set the cams high and use a big box mod, as both of these will help bleed some of the low end torque off, while retaining the high HP numbers = easier to drag race with a short wheel base.
Listen to the Professor and Mountianmotor.
NO need for bigger valves.
Bore it out to a 1441cc, port the head, Megacycle .385/.385 cams and a nice "camo" header and you are at or over 220hp, with a PCIIIusb and a custom map. If you are gonna stay short, set the cams high and use a big box mod, as both of these will help bleed some of the low end torque off, while retaining the high HP numbers = easier to drag race with a short wheel base.
drums_till_I_die
Registered
just talking about all this makes me wish i could have the time+money to pull my engine out , tear it down and stroke the hell outa it ! and i dont mean the erotic strokin ! i know there is tonzzzzz of busa hi perf. engine parts ! its like the chevy of sportbikes ! what are you puttin down as far as power goes on your busa ? and whats your set up ? j/w . thanks .drums_till_I_die,
You do not have to use the 2008 rods or pistons . Just exact the deck height with a spacer plate or base gaskets like any other engine build . You can even use the stock 1st gen pistons but Wiseco or JE flat tops are a better way to up the compression .
This +2mm crank, when using std bore makes for a great street engine when the correct aftermarket cams are chosen and missing is the cooling and or cranking problems of the 1397's . The Wiseco 1363 pistons would make another good street set-up with the +2mm 2008 crank because of their design and timing edge height or rather , distance . I'd rather have a tight deck height std bore than a 1397 with two or more base gaskets to lower compression and help cranking as my street bike engine . Holds true for a stroker . Others have different needs and use their built engines different than i so opinions will vary .
I'm a bit partial to the +5mm cranked std bores these days though for my uses at same basic price of the OEM 2mm . Torque a plenty with well thought out 1401's using just OEM pistons
,Justin
ps . sorry ! i didint mean to hyjack the thread ! lol
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