2000 Hayabusa Horsepower Output

On Sunday I finally had the chance to spin the dyno wheel with my STOCK 2000 Burgundy & Grey Hayabusa on two Dynojet Dynometers. The results are below.

On the Dynojet Model 150 I my BUSA pumped out 154.6 rwhp in the 4th gear roll on and 156.5 rwhp in the all gear test with a theoretical top speed of 192mph.

On the Dynojet Model 200 my BUSA pumped out 151.6 rwhp in the 4th gear roll on and 154.6 rwhp in the all gear with a theoretical top speed of 197mph.

Each power curve was progressive and had no spikes or dips anywhere in the power band.

I'm satisfied...For now!
 
Roll-on is best/honest measure and with the Busa better do it in 6th (and compare to 4th afterwards) as 5th and 6th are the only ones getting ALL the power from the 'puter!

On the other hand, the difference between top 2 gears and from 4 downwards are just a couple of horses all through the range until around 9000 rpm so won't mean much for max HP.

Mine was 154.4 roll-on in 6th all stock and just broken-in and 166.6 roll-on in 6th over a year later with Akrapovic, BMC-filter and small airbox-mod (flapper-valve removed, sealed hole for it and cutaway floor inside filter) using map 007 and same dyno, same operator and similar conditions (temp/humidity).
 
Here's interesting, cut from TMH.com, JP posted reply to surging thread---supports what Animal just said about 1-4th;

We've had that problem here in Australia. It is due to the ignition being retarded in the
lower four gears. Our solution is to remove the resistors for the lower four gears from the
gear position sensor. This requires the removal of the GPS and digging the insulation
material out to gain access to the resistors. I know your ECU is different to our E24 spec
but I have run both E03 and E24 ECU's with the same results. Also have you noticed that
the idle smooths out when the dealer mode switch is installed and switched on, because
the ignition is now advanced. We picked up 4bhp when run on the dyno with the dealer
mode switch in. See how you go.
 
It's easy to explain why 6th gear runs better, but it doesn't reflect the real world. In 6th gear, the computer is expecting air to be rammed into the airbox to the tune of about 1psi. To compensate, it gives more fuel. Since the bike is a bit lean stock (aren't they all?), it makes it richer if the bike is on a dyno not being force-fed air. If you want to tune a ram air bike on a dyno, it's best to get an air pump for it. The numbers you see in 6th may not represent what you'll get on the street.

Or is the point just to makes better numbers? Think about it.

BTW, as for taking the resistors out of the GPS, I read in the manual that if it gets no signal, it assumes 1st gear.
 
Booker,
Akrapovic exhaust, BMC-filter and what's becoming known as the small airboxmod around here (remove everything related to the flapper valve and cut out airbox inner floor inside airfilter lip).
Ah yes, and PC2 with 007 map of course.
Still need to visit a load-control dyno for fine-tuning around the 3500 rpm area where it's probably the airbox mod playing up a bit.
You can feel this as surging when trying to hold a steady speed at 3500 rpm in slow traffic.
 
BusaGeek,

My ONLY point FOR ME is comparing results after mods and as long as I can arrange all (or most) other variables to be equal, I know I'll get valid comparison results in the end.

That's why I'm comparing 6th gear roll-ons on days just more than a year apart but with equal temp/humidity on the same dyno with the same operator "at the helm".

BTW, differences are the same when comparing 4th gear roll-ons and like I already mentioned on another thread, the diff between the 4th and 6th gear roll-ons is ONLY a couple of horses and ONLY up to just before the 9000 rpm mark, so does NOT influence max HP number in any way!

So, what's YOUR point?
 
BusaGeek

Yes, it does assume first gear, same as doing a dyno in dealer mode (sensors are turned off and basic setup is used)

THis is why we need to keep the pink wire at 5th gear voltage during gears 1-5 and let 6th and neytral do their own thing. (this is my idea anyway!!)
I dont want to go delving around in the engine, digging out ressistors, so just a simple splice in thing is waht I'm endevouring to work out

Back soon!!

Nuts ;)
 
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