Hello to all. I am wondering if anyone knows the torque spec for the axle nuts on the JMC swingarm. I replaced the rear wheel bearings and seems like the oem torque was too much and bearings got ruined. I can't seem to find any information since this company isn't available anymore. Bought the bike with the swingarm already had been installed.
2006 hayabusa with JMC swingarm
- Thread starter ICE714
- Start date
The torque/side load on the bearings should be the same, 72' lbs.
Were the wheel bearings both new before installing the wheel, and were both bearings damaged?
Did you lube the axel?
Were both spacers seated properly in the inner bearing races and against the swingarm?
Were both bearings seated properly, and the center spacer still could move/was not siezed between the bearings?
Was the axle aligned properly?
Were the wheel bearings both new before installing the wheel, and were both bearings damaged?
Did you lube the axel?
Were both spacers seated properly in the inner bearing races and against the swingarm?
Were both bearings seated properly, and the center spacer still could move/was not siezed between the bearings?
Was the axle aligned properly?
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And
How were the new bearings installed?
Hopefully correctly, pressed in with a hydraulic press, or drawn in with a threaded rod.
Or were they hammered in, which is Never good.
How were the new bearings installed?
Hopefully correctly, pressed in with a hydraulic press, or drawn in with a threaded rod.
Or were they hammered in, which is Never good.
Sorry, I see where you said that you bought it this way.
The torque is not the problem.
You just need new wheel bearings that are installed correctly.
The torque is not the problem.
You just need new wheel bearings that are installed correctly.
Bearings were new, I used science to put them in. Put them in the freezer and lightly tapped them in by only hitting the outer part of the bearing. I installed wheel the next day so bearings weren’t cold just in case. Cleaned and lubed axle bolt. Alignment and all seemed like it was fine but once I torqued it wheel seemed like it was tight. OEM axle nut only has one nut. This one has a left and a right nut and it’s why am wondering if the torque is different.
I know about freezing parts and heating opposing parts, but installing bearings with a hammer is always a bad idea, hitting the outer race or not.
Frozen parts also quickly warm to room temperature, so there is no reason to wait to install them.
If you don't have access to a press, then use a piece of threaded rod, with washers(same o.d. as outer bearing race) and nuts on it, and draw the bearings in.
Even small impacts to their sides will damage them, shorten their life, and they usually fail quickly, I have seen it quite a few times.
The bearings and wheel are also between both sides of the swingarm, regardless of what swingarm that it is.
Specific spacers may be different, but so long as they are correct, the torque will be the same.
Specific spacers may be different, but so long as they are correct, the torque will be the same.
I didn't wait to install them. I waited once they were installed on the wheel to install the wheel the next day. So bearing went in with no problems when it was frozen.
I don’t see how oem torque specs can ruin a bearing. Suzuki bearing install procedure is simple but spacing is critical. One bearing has to be pushed in until it bottoms out, then you drop the spacer in and install the other bearing by pressing until the inner race contact the spacer. If you just press them both until they bottom out by biting the outer race, the inner race will experience side load by the inner spacer and ruin the bearing. Both my hayabusa and Suzuki dr650 have the same procedure. See post 37 and 38 on this thread: Real head scratcher | Busa problems
I know that, I was talking about how you said that you waited to install the wheel...which was not nesacery
Am pretty sure it went in at the right point of the wheel. Wheels are after market and they have a snap ring on both sides that bearing needs to clear to be put on and there’s no gap left for the “a” space. I had bought the rear wheel bearing kit from all balls racing for the Hayabusa and they were like 3mm too big in outer diameter and one was wider too. I went and used part number from old ones and Amazon had timken brand but who knows if they are knock offs. I was able to look for the right ones on all balls racing by using the size chart and bought them from there. Hopefully it works better.
There is your problem then, the wrong bearings for the wrong wheels...3mm in diameter is huge amount of difference for a press fit, I'm suprised that you even got them in.
As well as being too wide.
With correct bearings, use the stock torque value.
You would be much better off to draw them in using the threaded rod method mentioned above as well, vs hammering them in, which is never good.
I’ve heard of Amazon having knock off toyota parts so wouldn’t be surprised if those timken ones are knock offs as you mentioned.
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