Hey guys, i recently converted my 1st gen fairings to 2nd gen as well as the 2nd gen cluster. I rewired the cluster to everything that could be crossed over. I started everything up and everything seemed to be working. Only thing is that the "check" was displaying. Does anyone know what would be setting that off? I can't start the bike til next week. I had the tank sent out so I have no way of fueling it til Wednesday. Anyway if anyone has any idea what could be triggering it, that would be great
2nd gen cluster gauge conversion
- Thread starter Ice3460
- Start date
The temp gauge wiring is different. Few other circuits you may have issues with.I thought that as well, but i wasn't sure if that was what it was. If anyone has any other ideas, I would like to hear them
I think you will find out Wednesday when you actually get it started. Like the theory on the gear position...as far as I know,codes and gear signals are generated by the ECU and the cluster is just the display. Yer running a Gen I ECU I'm guessing...you haven't told us what year yer Busa is,but that's sort of irrelevant.The 16 or 32 bit ECU prior to 2008 wont have the ability to send certain signals to the Gen II cluster. Krap like that. There are a few cluster swaps out there...but those that have done it,haven't said much.
I know swapping ECU's is a nasty task but has been done,but it is involved. The temp gauge for me,is the most critical. Running with an incorrect reading could be detrimental.
I have been studying this cluster swap/ECU swap/wiring harness swap for a while for other members to try and help them...but for now...I really don't know shi7. Hoping you will keep us informed,I am interested,and will offer what I can.
Rubb.
Oh ya...Ice "chec" was displayed correct? That is normal. When you get it running that should go out. If it stays on,it may or may not be an' issue.If it stays on with the FI light or the oil light then you'll have to take steps.
If you get an FI light,do you know how to bridge the 2 wires to get the code?
Rubb.
If you get an FI light,do you know how to bridge the 2 wires to get the code?
Rubb.
Yes I know how to bridge the wires. I just got everything together ..put coolant in it, but when I start my bike my temp guage is jumping to hot then mid then hot then low....i just changed the radiator so I dont know if its because there is air in it or not but the temp gauge is being very screwy
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
I am just searching old posts for you and this one points to the clutch switch as an alternative cause for the C40. When more than one thing is wrong, a physical problem can affect the system in ways that defy the code cross-reference, something to keep in mind as you rewire this.
www.hayabusa.org
The temp gauge behavior is like the circuit is charging then discharging. A diode allows current to only go one way and turns on/off based on the voltage. I know that (stinking) Hondas have a diode in the clutch circuit and have read here that headlights may be protected by a diode on this bike. Is the light behavior correct? I have no practical knowledge of this stuff, only theory, but as you are a pioneer for doing this, we may have to get to the theory level to resolve some of it.
C40 code... | Gen 2 Busa Information
last weekend i had the FI light come on , so i went home and got the code out of it (C40) went through manual idle speed control valve.so i performed the circuit tests from ECM to connector-ok . then tested valve had 79ohmes on each pair of terminals-ok manual says approx 80ohmes. it had a bit...
The temp gauge behavior is like the circuit is charging then discharging. A diode allows current to only go one way and turns on/off based on the voltage. I know that (stinking) Hondas have a diode in the clutch circuit and have read here that headlights may be protected by a diode on this bike. Is the light behavior correct? I have no practical knowledge of this stuff, only theory, but as you are a pioneer for doing this, we may have to get to the theory level to resolve some of it.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
Thinking thinking...
Or that FI light goes on because a ground is hot. The light dissipates the ground power, rinse, repeat.
The temp gauge wiring, it is not reversed is it?
Or that FI light goes on because a ground is hot. The light dissipates the ground power, rinse, repeat.
The temp gauge wiring, it is not reversed is it?
So after further investigation and talking to Ryan over at Schnitz Racing, turns out that the reason for the error codes is because of miscommunication between the gen1 ecu and the gen 2 cluster. There are things that do not exist on the gen 1 vs the gen two and the computer is reading them as if they are missing. Or atleast that was what was explained to me. As far as the temp problem, it is because the gauge plays a more intricate part on the gen 2 that the computer can't produce properly.
I managed to fix solve this issue by cutting the k line (communication line) coming off the ecu to the cluster and puttimg quick connects for puture reading if need be.. Because of this there is no more temp reading on the cluster itself. I had to install an in line sensor and mount a cool little gauge on my dash. Only problem is that if I throw a code, I have to reconnect the line and read the computer from the plug itself.
Well I'm glad Ryan over there was able to suggest that you might have some issues with the swap. Wish I would have thought of that like 2 months ago.
Glad you got it sorted.
Rubb.
Glad you got it sorted.
Rubb.
