44 tooth rear sprocket

F

Frank Adams

Registered
Omega, I've said this a number of times....
3up in the rear is the same as 1down in the front.
When the Busa goes through the traps it's in 3rd gear needing to shift to 4th real bad. So if you went 1 down in the fornt or 3 up in the rear it's just going to put you at the same place in 4th(needing to shift to 5th).
Not good, huh?
If you want to set A stock motor busa up to run through traps in the right gear, close to the right rpm, then try 2 up(42) in the rear first!
Now if your a big guy with a lot of wieght you might want to lean more towards 3 up(43) in the rear.

Or....If you want to run a real long swingarm and a slick or wheelie bars then set it up to go through the traps in 6th gear.(Paul Gast...plus 10 in the rear)

All this means very little if your not worried about the best ET at the Dragstrip.

If thats the case...then put the best gear on that fits your riding style.
 
What I'm mainly trying to find out is from an efficiency standpoint, should the front sprocket be left alone and all changes be made to the rear? Or is it ok to do the front which is obviously quicker and cheaper. If I'm reading you correctly, then up 2 in the rear is my best bet. My objectives are improved acceleration and wheelieing capabilities. I want it to be an R1 chaser more than a dragbike.
 
1 down in front is worth 2.5 in rear.like johnny said smaller in front is harder on the chain but on the busa 1 down in front will work fine.the 44 in rear is streetable without being annoying.front will give you added wheelbase with the steeper geer so its a good combo for this reason and its cheap.
 
My bike has stock front sprocket and chain, will a 44 tooth rear sprocket bolt up? If it does, is the axle all the way forward in the axle slot. My bike has about 6K miles on it and the chain has stretched a little bit so maybe that will allow the larger sprocket. The reason I did not go with the front sprocket change out is that I need the shorter wheelbase.
 
What planet are you from? Why would you want to go to a 44 tooth at rear ? Many a word has been said on a 16 tooth front vs a 42 or 43 tooth rear. Maximum you can go at back without changing your chain will be a 42. So go either a 16 tooth in front or 42 rear;- or a 43 rear which will feel same as 16 front except that you will not have speedo error. By the way -how will a 16 tooth in front influence your wheelbase? You can put your 44 tooth on with a new chain and depending on the length of the chain - your wheel base will differ by a few millimeters anyway. Is this your first bike? Maybe you are only joking.....
 
I too put a 44 on but was changing to a better chain any how so I was able to bring the wheel back in adjuster to stock position.PULLS LIKE HELL A JOHNNY!ANYTIME FINAL DRIVE RATIO IS CHANGED IT WILL ALTER THE AMOUNT OF ROTATIONS OF THE TRANSMISSION AND THUS THE SPEEDO READINGS WILL BE ALTERED.

[This message has been edited by THE MOTORHEAD (edited 17 February 2000).]
 
Motrhead, please settle this for me once and for all. Can I just go to the 16 in front or is there some reason that I have to go 43 in rear? I've never had a problem going down in front but I keep hearing here that its better to go up in back. Most importantly, I want to do it immediately so to go to the 43 rear before the chain is stretched will that require a new chain? Whats the problem with a 16 front? Its cheaper, less labor and nothing changes. Let me know I might take the silver/blue this week.
 
Johnny... Let us know here how you make out with your changes.

A 44 rear sound like someone wants to drag. Wouldn't it wheelie too much for the street? One couldn't get away from an uphill stop sign without a uncontrolled wheelie???
 
Hey cheese, will you answer my above question, I might want to take delivery today.
 
Omega, I thought you were getting a 12. I must have missed something somewhere. Did you have a busa before? Glad to see it :)
 
sorry Omega lets see, I went to a 42 rear after 500 miles I just wanted to get a feel for the bike first.
I enjoyed it.The reason is it is easier to turn a larger sprocket on the front then a smaller one less chain bind.
a 42 will fit from stock but I would still wait till you get use to the bike first Not that it will wheelie real bad but twist the throttle out of a sharp turn and you might have to change your underwear.

[This message has been edited by Johnnycheese (edited 17 February 2000).]
 
I see your fukin with me but I'm going to assume down one in front is ok.
 
Thanks Jcheese.
Omega, you will like the 42T, I have run that combination since my last tire change and the bike is more wheelie prone, but in a controllable way-just more fun. It is time for another rear tire, which is a good reason to change the gearing while you are at it. I will run the 44T until the tire is smoked, then I may try a 43T for grins. The bike engineers would like to run 19 to 20 tooth front sprockets to decrease bind, but tranny gear design size, crankcase dictate otherwise. The 'Confederate' runs a 20T front. Regarding the R1, you will have no trouble with them.
 
Good decision Omega, leave the front stock, play with the gearing using the rear sproket only. The problems that come about using a smaller front don't show right away, it's a wear and tear thing.Go with an Afam if you can.
 
I am puzzled. Am I to understand that going to a 43 tooth rear sprocket adds the same accelarative gearing advantage as dropping down one tooth in the front (17 to 16), without adversely affecting the speedometer/odometer readout?

Thanks
 
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