@murphc13
two ways to get steel braided into the abs
1.
the flex. parts are threaded into/onto the hard lines.
to replace - only - the rubber lines by steel braided you can order these parts with standard banyos at the one side and threads at their other. a good dealer should know what banjo/thread-combination you need.
2.
tearing out the entire lines - hard and soft ones
with two banjos - at both (steel braided) sides (cut em simply off as c10 wrote - you won´t need them any more)
BUT
then pay big attention to ALL the banjo bolts into the abs-hu/pump
their inner thread is m10x1.0 (or x1.25 - i don´t remember savely sorry)
the thread length inside the pump is shorter than the bolts need in depth - caused by this either you must shorten/cut these 4 bolts (2-3 mm)
or you have to use a second washer between banjo and pump (one above + two under => 3 washers per connection/bolt are needed)
otherwise the screw connection to the hu-pump will not be tight or you will destroy the thread / connection in the pump. that I know for 100% sure from my brake-conversion of my '00 when I implanted her the abs.
3.
to avoid the cross over line (the sad air consumption point) at the front wheel (from rh to lh caliper) you can use two long lines from the pump to each caliper and connect this pair by a double banjo bolt with also! two washers between the lower banjo and the pump. (=> 4 washers needed)
that I also know for 100% sure from my conversion of a turbo-'01 when I implanted her an abs in 2018.
see the pic with red arrow and round
View attachment 1630158
and it you were as smart as me
you use this kind of double banjo bolt (also with 4 washers!)
it got the bleeder already inside and the bleeding ot the two front lines is as easy as to pi$$ a hole into the snow. (rubb? germanlish - loool)
View attachment 1630159
little note aside:
i used that kind of bolt at the end at the brake-conversion above too