Abs hard line removal help

murphc13

Registered
Hello people.I’m doing an abs removal on my 14 and would like a little help with the rear.
I have the line going to the front removed over the rad removed.
a the 2 rear hard lines go under the subframe.
What do I need to remove to get at them in order to remove em?
im guessing rear wheel and rear body panels?
Anything else?
 
The hard lines have to be cut out with hand cutters . They were installed without the motor in place @ factory . You won't be saving them ;) FYI stuff rags where you cut to catch fluid .
Can you snapshot the microfiche(is that how you say it?) of the rear abs section and post it?I can’t see where they connect to.
 
The hard lines have to be cut out with hand cutters . They were installed without the motor in place @ factory . You won't be saving them ;) FYI stuff rags where you cut to catch fluid .
Correct, or remove the swingarm and then you can take the line out, and put the arm back on!
 
just a question for you guys that remove the abs system from your bikes . .
in your country does the removal of abs actually void the insurance on your bike?
Here in NZ we have a 'warrant of fitness' system for motor vehicles, it's a safety check the vehicle must pass to be able to be driven legally on the road.
If the abs is removed or even if the abs lamp is not present on 'key on', or, not extinguishing as it should, the WoF is failed until the fault is rectified.
This means insurance is invalid and incurs liability on the driver in the event of an accident etc.
I've often wondered if this is the case in the USA?
 
just a question for you guys that remove the abs system from your bikes . .
in your country does the removal of abs actually void the insurance on your bike?
Here in NZ we have a 'warrant of fitness' system for motor vehicles, it's a safety check the vehicle must pass to be able to be driven legally on the road.
If the abs is removed or even if the abs lamp is not present on 'key on', or, not extinguishing as it should, the WoF is failed until the fault is rectified.
This means insurance is invalid and incurs liability on the driver in the event of an accident etc.
I've often wondered if this is the case in the USA?
Not in California, which is often mistaken as its own country
 
@murphc13

two ways to get steel braided into the abs

1.
the flex. parts are threaded into/onto the hard lines.
to replace - only - the rubber lines by steel braided you can order these parts with standard banyos at the one side and threads at their other. a good dealer should know what banjo/thread-combination you need.

2.
tearing out the entire lines - hard and soft ones
with two banjos - at both (steel braided) sides (cut em simply off as c10 wrote - you won´t need them any more)
BUT
then pay big attention to ALL the banjo bolts into the abs-hu/pump
their inner thread is m10x1.0 (or x1.25 - i don´t remember savely sorry)
the thread length inside the pump is shorter than the bolts need in depth - caused by this either you must shorten/cut these 4 bolts (2-3 mm)
or you have to use a second washer between banjo and pump (one above + two under => 3 washers per connection/bolt are needed)
otherwise the screw connection to the hu-pump will not be tight or you will destroy the thread / connection in the pump. that I know for 100% sure from my brake-conversion of my '00 when I implanted her the abs.

3.
to avoid the cross over line (the sad air consumption point) at the front wheel (from rh to lh caliper) you can use two long lines from the pump to each caliper and connect this pair by a double banjo bolt with also! two washers between the lower banjo and the pump. (=> 4 washers needed)
that I also know for 100% sure from my conversion of a turbo-'01 when I implanted her an abs in 2018.
see the pic with red arrow and round
DSC_0013__.jpg


and it you were as smart as me ;) you use this kind of double banjo bolt (also with 4 washers!)
it got the bleeder already inside and the bleeding ot the two front lines is as easy as to pi$$ a hole into the snow. (rubb? germanlish - loool)
probrake doppelhohlschraube entluefternippel.jpg

little note aside:
i used that kind of bolt at the end at the brake-conversion above too ;)
 
@murphc13

two ways to get steel braided into the abs

1.
the flex. parts are threaded into/onto the hard lines.
to replace - only - the rubber lines by steel braided you can order these parts with standard banyos at the one side and threads at their other. a good dealer should know what banjo/thread-combination you need.

2.
tearing out the entire lines - hard and soft ones
with two banjos - at both (steel braided) sides (cut em simply off as c10 wrote - you won´t need them any more)
BUT
then pay big attention to ALL the banjo bolts into the abs-hu/pump
their inner thread is m10x1.0 (or x1.25 - i don´t remember savely sorry)
the thread length inside the pump is shorter than the bolts need in depth - caused by this either you must shorten/cut these 4 bolts (2-3 mm)
or you have to use a second washer between banjo and pump (one above + two under => 3 washers per connection/bolt are needed)
otherwise the screw connection to the hu-pump will not be tight or you will destroy the thread / connection in the pump. that I know for 100% sure from my brake-conversion of my '00 when I implanted her the abs.

3.
to avoid the cross over line (the sad air consumption point) at the front wheel (from rh to lh caliper) you can use two long lines from the pump to each caliper and connect this pair by a double banjo bolt with also! two washers between the lower banjo and the pump. (=> 4 washers needed)
that I also know for 100% sure from my conversion of a turbo-'01 when I implanted her an abs in 2018.
see the pic with red arrow and round
View attachment 1630158

and it you were as smart as me ;) you use this kind of double banjo bolt (also with 4 washers!)
it got the bleeder already inside and the bleeding ot the two front lines is as easy as to pi$$ a hole into the snow. (rubb? germanlish - loool)
View attachment 1630159
little note aside:
i used that kind of bolt at the end at the brake-conversion above too ;)
Ya I think they call it a race set up with 2 lines leaving the front master with 1 going to each caliper.That’s what I’m gonna do.
And the rear will need to be a custom order as I changed the caliper to an underslung brembo and custom bracket so will need to be the correct length.
 
just a question for you guys that remove the abs system from your bikes . .
in your country does the removal of abs actually void the insurance on your bike?
Here in NZ we have a 'warrant of fitness' system for motor vehicles, it's a safety check the vehicle must pass to be able to be driven legally on the road.
If the abs is removed or even if the abs lamp is not present on 'key on', or, not extinguishing as it should, the WoF is failed until the fault is rectified.
This means insurance is invalid and incurs liability on the driver in the event of an accident etc.
I've often wondered if this is the case in the USA?

Same here Kiwi. We'd be crucified if the abs was removed.
 
@murphc13

man?
you really want to put out the entire abs?

my recommendation was - the heck - keep it "alive" !!!!

my experiences with my abs were that in the last 6-7 years the abs saved 4 (four) times my damn a$$ !!!!
once at 6-7 mph :shocked: on a damn slippery sidewalk.

if you want your busa with a disabled abs for race track use
pull only temporarily its fuse or build in a quick reachable switch.

the brakes will definitely still work 100% sure as usual.
 
just a question for you guys that remove the abs system from your bikes . .
in your country does the removal of abs actually void the insurance on your bike?
Here in NZ we have a 'warrant of fitness' system for motor vehicles, it's a safety check the vehicle must pass to be able to be driven legally on the road.
If the abs is removed or even if the abs lamp is not present on 'key on', or, not extinguishing as it should, the WoF is failed until the fault is rectified.
This means insurance is invalid and incurs liability on the driver in the event of an accident etc.
I've often wondered if this is the case in the USA?
In my state we don't have inspections for anything at time of sale or annual thereafter. You can remove the entire emission system on a diesel and add an ECU programmer and nobody will do anything. Same on a gas engine. You can add a 6" lift kit and tires that protrude from the fenders. Your vehicle would have to be in pretty bad shape to be addressed by the police. If you have a headlight, brake or turn indicator light out you will eventually be stopped, but likely just a reason to stop for another purpose. Completely removed mufflers will get car stopped eventually, but motorcycles routinely have no mufflers. Nobody would even think about ABS removal on anything.
Same here Kiwi. We'd be crucified if the abs was removed.
Aren't Australia and NZ the same country? (just kidding ...)
 
In my state we don't have inspections for anything at time of sale or annual thereafter. You can remove the entire emission system on a diesel and add an ECU programmer and nobody will do anything. Same on a gas engine. You can add a 6" lift kit and tires that protrude from the fenders. Your vehicle would have to be in pretty bad shape to be addressed by the police. If you have a headlight, brake or turn indicator light out you will eventually be stopped, but likely just a reason to stop for another purpose. Completely removed mufflers will get car stopped eventually, but motorcycles routinely have no mufflers. Nobody would even think about ABS removal on anything.

Aren't Australia and NZ the same country? (just kidding ...)
Same here....you can drive a car with no hood or bumper cover as long as the headlight (s) work sort of...

I've seen the same beat to crap silverish civic drive around here with one headlight, one tail light and no muffler for months.......and it's one of many....

I had a car follow me yesterday and I couldn't hear my stereo over the noise of his exhaust...
 
A side note on this legal bs.
Is it possible to use a dash unit from a non abs Gen2 on a Gen 2 with abs removed?(I understand the mileage is kept in the dash).
 
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