Advice on servicing front brake pads on 2009

Blanca BusaLess

Suffers from PBSD
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Since you all seem to be knowledgeable regarding Busas I would like to ask a group opinion. I recently had EBC HH pads installed all the way around. From day one it seemed no matter how long or how fast the ride when I stopped the rear rotor and caliper were noticeably hotter than the fronts. I realize there may be a wind/cooling factor on the fronts but you also use them alot more and harder. It seemed to me that the pads were 'dragging' and causing excessive heat buildup. So since the rear seems much more easier to service than the fronts I rotated the caliper up after removing pin and bolt and removed the pads for a look see. The edges seemed rough so I decided to bevel the edges all the way around especially the leading edge. I also lightly sanded the rotor while it was on a stand . Nothing aggressive just rotating the tire and lightly sanding it with 400 grit paper. From the 600 miles already on the new pads I could see lines on rotor starting to form in darker rings than the oem ones had left. After sanding the rotor was cleaner but not like new because I only did it for 5-10 minutes very lightly. Then I cleaned the rotor with a towel soaked in rubbing alcohol. I also put a little anti-squeal goo on the back of both pads. Then I reassembled everything. Even just rolling it outside I could feel the diff. Going down the road it felt maybe just mentally like it was now a perfect match. It was from get go noticeably smoother. But the real test was to ride for 30-40 min stop and check. After a quick half hour ride I stopped and immediately checked the rotors and calipers front and rear. The rear was nice and cool. The fronts hot but not so hot they burn a bare hand. A complete diff. See below for a couple pics of how I prepped the pads.You can see that all I did was round off the edges on both pads all the way around with emphasis on the leading edge.

In the last pic I have drawn a red line to a curious metal 'chunk' in the pad itself. I realize that sintered metal pads are made up of pressed/melted together bits of metal but this one seems to be larger than it should be and I am wondering if anybody really can say if this is normal or if this chunk missed the refining process and just slipped thru. It just caught my eye and seemed out of place.

Now since I am so happy with the rear I would like to see if the same thing will get rid of the slight hissing/buzzing sound still coming from the fronts. After 600 miles it does not seem to be going away. Kinda sounds like a housefly on the inside of a window trying to get out.....just a quiet.....bzzzzzzzzz.......

My question to y'all is how difficult is it really to service the fronts> I have a service manual and in like three sentences it tells you how to do it. It sounds so simple it is scaring me. Are there any tips/tricks/pitfalls I need to look out for or can use to make it as simple as the rear went. Do I just loosen the two pins then remove two caliper bolts, lift caliper then remove pins and out come pads, simple ? I realize about the clip. Anything happen after you take it apart that becomes diff to put back ? Is getting it all back together on a Busa in the front more diff than the book makes it seem ? I am betting that the same thing done to the rear done to the fronts will make them the way it should be , better than oem and just as quiet !

Thanks in advance,

FAIR WARNING..Please stay on topic and try to not to argue or fight boys.
I don't want to have to call your mother.............!

rear pads 10.10.09 001.jpg


rear pads 10.10.09 005.jpg


metal chunk in pad.JPG
 
Aftermarket HH pads like EBC's make a buzzing noise...it's normal.

You will here it more so at medium speeds in the 30-60 mph range. The faster you are going...the more the buzz, and the buzz changes pitch as your speed changes.
 
The metal chunk probably came off your rotor...did you bed in the brakes properly ???
 
EBC brake bedding...this covers brake in of rotors and pads...

7.
Bedding in of EBC stainless rotors and pads

If new pads are being used, bed in time is almost DOUBLED. Compare the bedding in of both new pads and rotors as removing the peaks from two sets of mountains rather than one. In the bed in procedure light strobe-like stripes can appear on the rotor but bear in mind that these are dimensionally MICRONS and will wear down quite quickly. Even a small bed in vibration is quite normal and will go away once the bed in procedure is complete. EBC rotors are ground in a radial direction and this is why strobe stripes may appear compared to cross ground rotors where peaks are more random but bed in times are longer. There are varying opinions on bed in but EBC suggest

First we only expect EBC pads to be used, many other pads have been shown to exhibit much more aggressive braking and NO WARRANTY exists using EBC rotors with any other brand of pad, period .Proof of purchase will be required in any warranty discussion.

:cheerleader: For street use – Medium braking force rather than LIGHT braking from 70 mph to 20 intermittently for a minimum of 100 miles of urban style driving (100 brake cycles) where braking actions occur every mile at least is recommended without harsh braking unless in an Emergency…. This seems to work best and very LIGHT braking has been found to cause glazing and pick up problems. Pick up is described as small disc particles being dislodged from the rotor surface. If pick is observed during bed in, you CAN accelerate this with a fix by removing the pads and removing any small silver particles embedded in the pad surface( using a pointed knife or similar tool )taking care not to damage the pad surface excessively, care needs to be taken and if needed call our help line or e mail our tech department on biketechnical@ebcbrakesuk.com . The rotor surface will correct itself and no sanding or filing of the rotor is advisable. :cheerleader:

There are NO silver particles at all present in any EBC pad material therefore any that become embedded in the pad are rotor material and to produce best pad and rotor surface quickly, this procedure is recommended. Without this procedure, the slots in EBC rotors WILL do the job for you but you may see slight scratch marks on the rotor during the first 1000 mile street use.

For Track use – As above but with speeds of 80-90 Mph down to 50 Mph 2-3 times per lap for a minimum of 5 laps but moderate braking is needed rather than light or heavy gradually increasing the brake force on the last lap of 5. If Strobe marks still remain, continue the procedure for 2-3 lap or until the strobe stripes have gone and a full width pad contact is observed on both the pads and the rotors, remove the pads and inspect for 95% minimum surface contact on the rotor.
 
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Good stuff thanks.
I did not think about the chunk coming from the rotor. Now after spending a few minutes fixing the pads and rotor I think I am gonna leave it alone. The brake feels nice and crisp now with no excess heat or dragging. I am happy with the chunk being there. As long as I don't start to see any gouges near the edge of the rotor from it I am not gonna worry.

Please advise on front brakes. I realize that EBC may hiss or whatever and this is normal but I wonder if it is because not many people apply the tender love and care to each pad like I want to. If any are like me, it's a wild hair that has to get plucked for me to be able to concentrate. If after I do same to front as rear they still bzzzzzz oh well at least I tried.

So again question is level of difficulty removing pads from front ?
Any things pop out or become diff to reassemble once taken apart ?
???
 
Not sure if this helps.. but i just had the EBC HH pads added with Goodrich hoses... they DO make a slight noise thats defo not the same as the standard pads.

Taking the front pads off is easy, but why not take the bike in to a dealer and let him take a look over the bike... it might cost a bit more... but IMHO you can mess with all things other than brakes... brakes need to work, and if you are in any doubt (as you clearly are) last thing you need is to panic going into a corner because your not sure about the brakes.... would hate to see you in the RIP section over a few $$$$!!!!

Jza
 
Good stuff thanks.
I did not think about the chunk coming from the rotor. Now after spending a few minutes fixing the pads and rotor I think I am gonna leave it alone. The brake feels nice and crisp now with no excess heat or dragging. I am happy with the chunk being there. As long as I don't start to see any gouges near the edge of the rotor from it I am not gonna worry.

Please advise on front brakes. I realize that EBC may hiss or whatever and this is normal but I wonder if it is because not many people apply the tender love and care to each pad like I want to. If any are like me, it's a wild hair that has to get plucked for me to be able to concentrate. If after I do same to front as rear they still bzzzzzz oh well at least I tried.

So again question is level of difficulty removing pads from front ?
Any things pop out or become diff to reassemble once taken apart ?
???

Dude,

You are making this way too difficult...just take some brake cleaner and spray it on a clean rag and wipe down the front rotors really well. Then go out and find a safe place to do the brake bedding process that I posted from the EBC site...the pads and rotors will clean them selves up and you should not have any more problems :beerchug:
 
to service your front calipers/pads is just as simple as the rear. I would take the clipers off (don't dangle them by the brake lines), remove the pads, shove a wooden wedge to keep the pistons from closing in, do whatever you want with the pads and then put them back in with ease.

I hope that answers your question.
 
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