AEM Wideband Failsafe Gauge not waterproof

hendrixgr

Registered
Hi.
I just want to share my experience with the AEM Wideband Failsage Gauge in case someone wants to fit it on his turbo Hayabusa or any other motorcycle.
The gauge works like a dream but it is not suitable for a motorcycle because it is not waterproof as i first thought by looking at some online store descriptions that list this gauge as suitable for the Hayabusa.
I have contacted AEM support and they answered me that this gauge was never designed to be waterproof but fitted inside a car's cabin.
Have in mind that if you do buy it, because after all it does works fine, when it rains or you wash your bike it will take water in from the faceplate and yes it is fitted inside a chrome 52mm gauge holder made by AEM (i think).
Now i must devise a way to make it waterproof like dipping the whole gauge in resin :laugh:
Chris

Snapshot_201412061817 (3).jpg
 
This was a worry of mine. I bought this gauge a few months ago. I've been fortunate not to get the gauge wet yet. I'm thinking imma put it on top the gauges and try to encase it somehow.
 
This was a worry of mine. I bought this gauge a few months ago. I've been fortunate not to get the gauge wet yet. I'm thinking imma put it on top the gauges and try to encase it somehow.
I think that it needs a little silicon between the plastic transparent screen and the screw cap.
i need to find a sealant that will not stain the transparent plastic.
Chris
 
I found why it was taking in water and fixed it.
All you need to do is use some clear silicone (or a suitable O ring) between the screw in cap and the gauge's transparent plastic face.
After fastening the top screw cap to the gauge body without forcefully tightening it, clear excess silicone with alcohol and leave the thing alone for a couple hours to cure.
Remember to use some butter on the threads in order to be able to unscrew the cap later and use only a very small amount of silicone on the transparent plastic's 1mm outer perimeter using a long thin disposal tip, not your finger.
Chris
 
Thanks for the tip! Just got my carbon fiber autometer cup in and was trieng to figure out some weather proofing.
 
I have a suspicion that mine runs .5 fat or somewhere around there too at least at street tune level. I dunno what it is at boost.
 
Anyone else notice that or am I weirding out?
Hi.
I have the information that usually they show readings a little leaner than they actually are for safety.
I have two wideband sensors (and one OEM narrow band sensor as the stock European models have an O2 sensor ) on my bike, one for the AEM failsafe and one for the pcv autotune module.
When the stock narrow band sensor controls the AFR at cruise for the stoichiometric 14.7 it is designed for, the pcv autotune module shows 15.2 and the AEM shows 14.7
Chris
 
I think the dynojet and the aem both use the same Bosch sensor. I will look at plugs, did 140 miles highway n traffic while looking at AFR. That should give me an idea since its post dyno.
 
Hendrix, are you setting up your cruise afr at 14.7? I know that's the ideal for NA engines but I almost want to keep my valves a little cooler and run 13.8. Rob, you know infinitely more than I do about these cylinder heads, tell me if I am paranoid.
 
Hendrix, are you setting up your cruise afr at 14.7? I know that's the ideal for NA engines but I almost want to keep my valves a little cooler and run 13.8. Rob, you know infinitely more than I do about these cylinder heads, tell me if I am paranoid.
I am not doing it, the stock ecu is doing it.
Stock European Hayabusa bikes have an O2 sensor which detects steady throttle (cruise) and automatically adjust the AFR to 14.7 but only up to 4800 rpm
After 4800 rpm the ECU works in open loop mode.
 
Anything leaner the 13.0 crusing they usually start to sputter and run crappy. These engines love fuel. Give it what it wants, not what you think it needs based off some ideological afr numbers.
 
Anything leaner the 13.0 crusing they usually start to sputter and run crappy. These engines love fuel. Give it what it wants, not what you think it needs based off some ideological afr numbers.
Hi.
My bike loves an AFR around 12.5 to 13.2 also.
As i said the stock 2007 gen1 ecu does not alter fueling all the time (below 4800 rpm) but only when it detects a cruising situation with steady throttle and that must hold for more than ~2 seconds.
If i move the throttle or i fall in to a small bump which affects the throttle opening the ecu runs on open loop again
which usually means an AFR of 13.2 for very light throttle movements to 12 (i have seen the AFR go 11 sometimes) when accelerating.
Chris
 
Ok, I am going to do some revamping with my street tune. Thank you for sharing information, this is the stuff that most will not offer for free.
 
Back
Top