air/fuel

[Jester0769]

hears what I want to do, I want to put an autometer air/fuel meter. The thing thats causeing a problem is, no O2 sensor.

Is there a bike verson or can I tap into something that is already there?

any help is good help

Josh

 

[rubbersidedown]

hears what I want to do, I want to put an autometer air/fuel meter. The thing thats causeing a problem is, no O2 sensor.

Is there a bike verson or can I tap into something that is already there?

any help is good help

Josh

I'm not sure if this is good help...but i for 1...would just love to UNDERSTAND .

   You want to add an air/fuel meter from the manufacturer Autometer to your GSX1300R .

You think the thing thats causing you a problem (WHAT TYPE OF PROBLEM?) is the fact that your Hayabusa has no oxygen sensor .

  I'm not sure I understand...the Busa...as far as I know,actually does have an oxy sensor , its located in the air-box . As far as i know its an oxy-temp sensor . If your lookin' for a guage that measures the air/fuel mixture I'm thinking you're gonna be hard pressed .   A gauge...or meter... from a shiddy company like Autometer , that can give a digital or analog reading of the A/F mixture thats going into a motorcycle .  I'd have to say good luck .  What is gonna get put in the air box to determine flow ?  How will the amout of fuel be measured , and at what point? The injectors ? The throttle bodies? What device will be used to measure this flow and then give an accurate reading .  The CPU already controls this....why would someone want to meter this?

  I'm confused.....

 

[jwcfbd]

hears what I want to do, I want to put an autometer air/fuel meter. The thing thats causeing a problem is, no O2 sensor.

Is there a bike verson or can I tap into something that is already there?

any help is good help

Josh

I'm not sure about on a bike but you could just drill a hole in your header and weld a nut to it. That was you can screw a O2 sensor into it. I know that is what you have to do when you put headers on a car that has an O2 sensor on it.

 

[rubbersidedown]

hears what I want to do, I want to put an autometer air/fuel meter. The thing thats causeing a problem is, no O2 sensor.

Is there a bike verson or can I tap into something that is already there?

any help is good help

Josh

I'm not sure about on a bike but you could just drill a hole in your header and weld a nut to it.  That was you can screw a O2 sensor into it.  I know that is what you have to do when you put headers on a car that has an O2 sensor on it.

ok....I get it now....but whats the purpose? anybody?

 

[Jester0769]

RSD,

Hear is the reason I want a gauge. My bike seems to always be running rich. I want to be able to watch what is happening when Im ridding so when I stop I can make changes on the PCII to maybe fix whats goin on in the mixture and stop the pretty blue flames from exploding in my exhaust cans.

Just tryin to get out of having to go and spend 300 bucks on a dyno when Im not even sure the guys running the thing knows what he is doin.

guess Im just trying to be cheep.

 

[gixxer]

Im not sure about Autometer but K&N used to sell a complete kit with the sending unit for it. And while your at it, id figure you should be monitoring the Exhaust Gas Temperature to monitor how rich its running also. There goes my two cents.

 

[Jester0769]

out of pure stupidty, what should the exhust temp be on a bike and where would you messure it? at the header, the collector or the cans?

 

[TJFAST]

You can check each header. The richer the mix the cooler the pipe. I have seen temp kits but the are not cheap. I think auto meter makes a O2 sensor kit. I would like to get one my self for the strip.

 

[hayaboosta]

As to determining air/fuel ratio, the quickest "real time" information you will get on a streetbike/dragbike without data recording is exhaust gas temp. (EGT). The smallest unit I have used for a single or dual channel input is the Race Pak. The correct way to do this would be to have a thremocoupler (TC) in each exhaust pipe just down stream from the cylinder head. On turbo's, a single TC can be used. The item below was not priced online, but I remember paying high $300's for my last one. It is a digital tach with shift light and peak hold functions as well.

FROM www.racepak.com

The Hot Tach II sets the stage for the Hot Tach III and Hot Tach Pro. It is the foundation upon which the other two are built. This 2 7/16â€￾ square faced gauge is capable of displaying multiple functions on its LCD screen. These functions include engine RPM and two exhaust gas temperatures. In addition to displaying these functions it is also possible to set alarm levels on each of the channels. A warning light will flash whenever a maximum level is exceeded and any channel. Viewing the RPM and EGT data is accomplished by scrolling through the channels on the screen. This is done using the button on the gauge, or an optional remote thumb switch.



Data displayed on the Hot Tach II can also be recalled and played back after the engine has been shut down. Up to six minutes of recall/playback is available.


All Hot Tach gauges require a 12 volt DC power source, and they are backlit for night time operation. The gauges are intended for dash mount and require a 2 1/16â€￾ OD round hole.

 

[hayaboosta]

For an air/fuel ratio device that you can keep on the bike or just plug in for testing, the Halmeter has been the best I have used thus far.  It is far more accurate than the K&N style units.  Provided in the kit is a threaded bung that you would weld to the pipe after the collector.  The O2 sensor would find home there.  This device retails in the high $200's and is a real nice tuning tool.  BUT.... without the ability to "peak hold" or "playback" you need to view the results in realtime.  A dragstrip is the safest palace I can think of for full throttle testing!  The mightly "busa eats up some real estate real quick to have yor eyes of the road for too long!

FROM www.halmeter.com

The design of the lambda or oxygen sensor provides a signal which is easily interpreted by the Halmeter AF30. The sensor produces a small voltage outout by comparing free oxygen in the exhaust gases with ambient oxygen outside the exhaust system. This voltage is created when the sensor is heated to between 360 degrees centigrade (680 F) and 900 degrees centigrade (1650 F) and varies between zero and one volt. The AF30 processes this voltage output and displays the result via a series of red, yellow and green LEDs: the red lights for lean, yellow for the stoichiometric band and green lights indicating mixtures likely to produce maximum power. It should be noted that, in the event the sensor is located in the exhaust where the temperatures are at or above the maximum, a reduced voltage output will result in fewer lights in the green band being lit at rich mixtures.

Dividing the small output from the sensor into thirty incremental LED's gives the Halmeter AF30 superior resolution compared to other instruments of its type.

The Halmeter AF30 Air/Fuel Ratio Indicator offers the tuner a low cost, attractive unit with thirty LED indicators that signal lean-optimum-rich.

The HalmeterAF30 Air/Fuel Ratio Indicator works on all engines, carbureted or injected, and with gasoline, alcohol or propane fuels. When used with programmable EFI systems, it helps establish fuel maps and makes the mixture trim control a more precise tool for on track tuning.

The Halmeter AF30 Air/Fuel Ratio Indicator kit is supplied complete with meter, wiring harness, oxygen sensor and exhaust fittings.

 

[hayaboosta]

For some reason the Halmeter pic didn't load.

 

[rubbersidedown]

RSD,

Hear is the reason I want a gauge. My bike seems to always be running rich. I want to be able to watch what is happening when Im ridding so when I stop I can make changes on the PCII to maybe fix whats goin on in the mixture and stop the pretty blue flames from exploding in my exhaust cans.

Just tryin to get out of having to go and spend 300 bucks on a dyno when Im not even sure the guys running the thing knows what he is doin.

guess Im just trying to be cheep.

ya....I hear ya....they all run rich . I'm not sure if yer gonna get perfect with any of the "Cool-Tools" on the market today.
Besides after ya buy them...yer still gonna be in NEED... I think . You'll just be a little bit thinner in the wallet too,which you mentioned earlier...yer trying to avoid .
This gizmo...an' that gadget.... I DUNNO . This thread has the real possibilty of turning into a big SHID-SANDWICH, which I could do without... but, its my feeling that in order to get things exactly right , yer gonna need a couple things, one or two pieces of equipment that the average "Back-Yard-Bob" doesn't have in his arsenal .
A dyno....
(just or even more importantly) An exhaust gas annalizer...

just me....flame on....you FLAMERS....hee hee hee

 

[MET]

For some reason the Halmeter pic didn't load.

This is the meter that I ru. It is critical for my setup. very good gauge and comes with a O2 sensor tha you have to drill the header.