******AIRBOX MOD AND TOPEND******
- Thread starter Gixx1300R
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OB_Dirty Pete
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I've hauled top end to redline 100 times since I did that mod. Runs clean and makes good intake noise. Works for me.
Now I do have a 16 tooth front, so factor that in.
Now I do have a 16 tooth front, so factor that in.
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
Correction: 1,000 times.
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 24 November 1999).]
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 24 November 1999).]
G
Guest
Have'nt had any problems since the mod but only did partial mod did not remove complete air box floor because wanted the use of the filter just removed flapper valve and surrounding area and you still have full use of air filter and the ram air starts to work sooner and it does'nt affect warr.
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
Also have you double checked those hoses you disconnected to do the mod to see that they are properly reconnected/blocked off?
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 24 November 1999).]
[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 24 November 1999).]
Frank Adams
Registered
it does sound like the bike is running lean.
the one thing i noticed when i finished the mod was that the bike also wouldn't run past 8500. first thing i tried was racing fuel. same thing, it was like it run into wall. so, i ended up going with 100 octane fuel. the stuff i used was union 76....
i guess what you need to understand here is, is that the different octane's have different burn rates.
this is just one thing to do to start getting yourself in the right direction. after this you really need to get down on the dialing in the map settings.
see when you open things up so air can get into the motor easier, it makes the motor lean out. the same amount of fuel will go into the motor. it wont change, unless you adjust for it. there are sensors but they can't make up for all of what it needs. it's pretty simple, the more air you can put into it, the more fuel it's going to need!...thats horse power!
just like the stock air filters; these dudes restrict alot of air from getting in there. if you just take your filter/lid combo off, your going to probably end up with the same results. but you don't want to do that because it eliminates your ram air. that would make it like having stacks only. bad choice.
get your bike dialed, you don't know what your missing!!!
the one thing i noticed when i finished the mod was that the bike also wouldn't run past 8500. first thing i tried was racing fuel. same thing, it was like it run into wall. so, i ended up going with 100 octane fuel. the stuff i used was union 76....
i guess what you need to understand here is, is that the different octane's have different burn rates.
this is just one thing to do to start getting yourself in the right direction. after this you really need to get down on the dialing in the map settings.
see when you open things up so air can get into the motor easier, it makes the motor lean out. the same amount of fuel will go into the motor. it wont change, unless you adjust for it. there are sensors but they can't make up for all of what it needs. it's pretty simple, the more air you can put into it, the more fuel it's going to need!...thats horse power!
just like the stock air filters; these dudes restrict alot of air from getting in there. if you just take your filter/lid combo off, your going to probably end up with the same results. but you don't want to do that because it eliminates your ram air. that would make it like having stacks only. bad choice.
get your bike dialed, you don't know what your missing!!!
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
I certainly see what you're saying Frank, but I'm baffled. I made the maximum cut on the box mod, race cans and no other aspiration-related changes. I threw it on the dyno expecting a re-map like you suggest. But the curve is perfect on factory settings and the dyno tuner says he cannot improve a perfect curve with re-mapping. The bike performs right in every range under any load.
Yet other guys here do the box mod and it ruins their tuning like it did to you and ICBM.
I'm getting to think that the Busa engine and electronic management system is not just slightly variable from copy to copy off the assembly line like other bikes, but WILDLY variable.
Yet other guys here do the box mod and it ruins their tuning like it did to you and ICBM.
I'm getting to think that the Busa engine and electronic management system is not just slightly variable from copy to copy off the assembly line like other bikes, but WILDLY variable.
DID THE LEE SHIERTS AIR BOX MOD TO THE LETTER, THE BIKE NOW STUMBLES SOME OF THE TIME WHEN THE THROOTLE IS CRACKED OPEN FULLY. IN ADDITION, THE BIKE IS HAVING A DIFFICULT TIME ON THE DYNO AS 6 ATTEMPTS WERE MADE TO FINALLY GET A CLEAN RUN. THE BIKE WOULD REV TO AROUND 8 GRAND AND NO HIGHER. I WOULD HAVE TO EASE OF THE THROTTLE AND THEN REAPPLY BEFORE IT WOULD REACH THE HIGHER RPMS. I DO NOT HAVE A YOSH OR PC AND THE BIKE IS STONE STOCK WITH THE EXCEPTION OF A 16 TOOTH FRONT SPROCKET. THE BIKE FINALLY MADE A 152HP AND 97 TORQUE. THE REST OF THE PULLS SHOWED GARBLED LINES NOT MAKING MORE THAN 110 HP OR SO. STREETABILITY HAS SUFFERED DRASTICALLY BUT MY MPH IN THE QTR WENT UP 1.25 TO 137.2 AND 10.33 ET. MY BIKE FALLS IN THE SERVICE RECALLS. NO I DID NOT HAVE MY BIKE DYNOED BEFORE AND AFTER TO SEE IF THEIR WAS ANY GAIN FROM AIR BOX MOD. I'M WAITING TO SEE IF THE RECALL NOTICES REPAIRS WILL HELP OUT MY BIKE. I WAS CONTIMPLATING GOING BACK TO THE ORIGINAL AIRBOX AS A RESULT OF WHAT'S GOING ON. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
OB_crazy bill
Registered
i have the mod before and after the 16 tooth. pulls great either way.
OB_Dirty Pete
Registered
ICBM, the greatest danger of doing the airbox mod is that you won't get all the plastic shavings out of the box and then one or more will get sucked into the fuel injection.
I'm not saying that this is what happened in your case, but your symptoms sound like fuel starvation. You may want to get your throttle bodies blown out while you're having the bulletin 8/9 work done just in case.
I'm not saying that this is what happened in your case, but your symptoms sound like fuel starvation. You may want to get your throttle bodies blown out while you're having the bulletin 8/9 work done just in case.
ICBM
REMAP your F. Injection. check out the recalls.
My bike always pulled after the mod til approx. 10,500 rpm. This includes trials with Yosh Box, PC2, and stock. On and off Dyno.
Best result is with PC2 and correct TPS setting/adjusment. My bike has a pipe too though.
You may have another problem other than being possibly lean up top.
Anyone else make this mod to a STOCK bike??
Bob
REMAP your F. Injection. check out the recalls.
My bike always pulled after the mod til approx. 10,500 rpm. This includes trials with Yosh Box, PC2, and stock. On and off Dyno.
Best result is with PC2 and correct TPS setting/adjusment. My bike has a pipe too though.
You may have another problem other than being possibly lean up top.
Anyone else make this mod to a STOCK bike??
Bob
Frank Adams
Registered
too lean stock? think so? i'd think it would be the opposite. i'm not sure though, never looked at it that close. anyway he's has a definite problem with his fuel mixture. i can relate more so on my bike because i had alot of huge changes. but his? makes you wonder. i did some different things from everyone else on my airbox so i would expect something like that to happen to me....
dirtypete: your right...i work in an auto plant building cars & trucks and believe me things like that do happen from time to time...
99tlr: i agree with you on the ecm. this is a state of the art "bike". it should be scratching your nads while you ride it...lol
i'll bet there is more to it like bob said!
could even be a problem in the fuel pump? fuel pressure? it will be interesting to hear what the "cure" ends up being...
one more thing to add here: if i remember right ICBM(?) you didn't do the complete mod.
i'd reccomend you do the entire mod! it's "usually" all or nothing...
dirtypete: your right...i work in an auto plant building cars & trucks and believe me things like that do happen from time to time...
99tlr: i agree with you on the ecm. this is a state of the art "bike". it should be scratching your nads while you ride it...lol
i'll bet there is more to it like bob said!
could even be a problem in the fuel pump? fuel pressure? it will be interesting to hear what the "cure" ends up being...
one more thing to add here: if i remember right ICBM(?) you didn't do the complete mod.
i'd reccomend you do the entire mod! it's "usually" all or nothing...
G
Guest
ICBM, the problem you describd sounds like a common one the TLR guys have had after doing airbox stuff. Sounds to me like you left a small vacuum hose detached/leaky. You have exact symptoms. Also check the airbox pressure sensor and its wires/connector.
Frank, the FI sensors do a pretty good job of measuring the airflow into the motor and getting the mixture right. The ECM should compensate at least for some of the extra flow. I know a lot of people who have done airbox/exhaust mods, then dynoed again without remapping and found good power gains and still had good mixture.
I think most of us remap because the bike is simply too lean stock, something to do with meeting emission requirements.
Frank, the FI sensors do a pretty good job of measuring the airflow into the motor and getting the mixture right. The ECM should compensate at least for some of the extra flow. I know a lot of people who have done airbox/exhaust mods, then dynoed again without remapping and found good power gains and still had good mixture.
I think most of us remap because the bike is simply too lean stock, something to do with meeting emission requirements.
G
Guest
Sorry Frank, when I said "too lean stock" I was referring mainly to the TLR, which had probs meeting the emisisons and stock they are supposed to be quite lean. Maybe it's a twin thing. We run +5,+10,+5 even just with minor mods and it gives good gains on the dyno. Considering the ram air will lean it out more again, probably best to err a bit rich I reckon.
OB_JohnnyB
Registered
I did the airbox mod to a stock bike & have had no problems. Pulls up to 10,500 clean every time. I have not had the bike on a dyno but subjectively it feels like it lost a little up to 3,000 RPM but I wouldn't call it a stumble. It feels like it makes more power at top end & Definately makes more intake noise. I cut out everything inside the aircleaner base & left the vacuum actuator in place with the hose on it. it will still move but it isn't hooked up to anything. If I can find a dyno around here I'll let you know what it does. Anyone know of a shop w/ dyno near Red Bank NJ?
Frank Adams
Registered
JohnnyB, why did you leave the vacuum actuater in there?
what purpose does it have now?
what purpose does it have now?
OB_JohnnyB
Registered
Frank,
I left it there simply because I thought it was a cleaner solution than the likely epoxy mess that would have replaced it. Also I could get right back on & ride without waiting 24hrs for epoxy to cure
I left it there simply because I thought it was a cleaner solution than the likely epoxy mess that would have replaced it. Also I could get right back on & ride without waiting 24hrs for epoxy to cure
OB_Ghost Ryder01
Registered
I'm the individual that made the post about the bike not pulling redline in 6th. It wouldn't even pull redline in 5th. It would pull up to about 9.5 and that's it. What I'm calling redline here is when the revlimiter kick in. Anyway we tried to increase the fuel on the topside with the yosh box to +10 but that didn't help either. We changed the front gear and the bike would pull to redline in all gears. We could not figure out what cause the bike not to go to red in top gears. Anyone got any suggestions as to why this happen?
[This message has been edited by Ghost Ryder01 (edited 30 November 1999).]
[This message has been edited by Ghost Ryder01 (edited 30 November 1999).]
OB_cbxchris
Registered
Have you checked your compression or maybe put a leak down on it. You may have some engine problem that is causing you to not be able to run out on top. A bent valve will show up sometimes on a top end run.
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