domestictuner
Donating Member
This variation of the mod requires no modification to the bike aside from 2 tiny holes on the inside of the seat.
I posted this in another thread but realized there is a couple of threads on this so why not make my own...
i work for an OHD dist so i get a few remotes to play with once in a while, our remotes use a 12v battery (in most cases, a 9v in very few older models) mine at home is a 390 board/trans so thats what my instructions are based on.
1) take apart transmitter
2) remove battery (note the + and _ terminals and where they go into the board on the transmitter)
3) replace the battery contacts on the board with coresponding colored wire about 18" long
4) locate the button on the trans board (generally a 2 pole(<-wrong term?) button)
5) replace button with 2 wires about 18" long (1 for each side of the button)
6) reassemble transmitter
7) acquire a small limit switch about 1"L x 1/4"W x 1/2"D availiable at most electrical supply stores (or local garage door place)
limit switch MUST be a "normally open" NO switch, a NC switch will not work
it is going in the gap between the seat and the frame so make sure it fits.
8) attach wires to limit switch using the common and NO poles/terminals/whatever
9) using 2 screws small enough to fit through the mounting holes on the limit switch, attach limit switch to the bottom/inside right hand side of the seat.
it makes 2 tiny, tiny holes in the seat covering that will never be seen
mine is located so i can reach under the seat lip, where the cast portion of the frame is welded to the
smooth portion, i beleive that is the biggest gap between the seat and the frame
**we decided it is better to have it on the right side, that way you are holding the clutch with one hand and reaching for the switch with the other as opposed to rolling toward the garage, reaching for the switch and only having control of the throttle.
10) attach the correct power wires to the battery terminals
11) fasten the remote under the elastic band holding the ecm
There it is no flashing lights, horns to trigger the opener, and most important to me, no need to hack up the bike harness.
keep in mind that since the transmitter is under the seat it will not have the range that they do on your car visor but it beats punching in your code on a codelock or walking through the house/garage to open the door
for that extra mile i used the soldering gun to "shave" the button on the remote and painted the box so most people would never recognize what it is...
I posted this in another thread but realized there is a couple of threads on this so why not make my own...
i work for an OHD dist so i get a few remotes to play with once in a while, our remotes use a 12v battery (in most cases, a 9v in very few older models) mine at home is a 390 board/trans so thats what my instructions are based on.
1) take apart transmitter
2) remove battery (note the + and _ terminals and where they go into the board on the transmitter)
3) replace the battery contacts on the board with coresponding colored wire about 18" long
4) locate the button on the trans board (generally a 2 pole(<-wrong term?) button)
5) replace button with 2 wires about 18" long (1 for each side of the button)
6) reassemble transmitter
7) acquire a small limit switch about 1"L x 1/4"W x 1/2"D availiable at most electrical supply stores (or local garage door place)
limit switch MUST be a "normally open" NO switch, a NC switch will not work
it is going in the gap between the seat and the frame so make sure it fits.
8) attach wires to limit switch using the common and NO poles/terminals/whatever
9) using 2 screws small enough to fit through the mounting holes on the limit switch, attach limit switch to the bottom/inside right hand side of the seat.
it makes 2 tiny, tiny holes in the seat covering that will never be seen
mine is located so i can reach under the seat lip, where the cast portion of the frame is welded to the
smooth portion, i beleive that is the biggest gap between the seat and the frame
**we decided it is better to have it on the right side, that way you are holding the clutch with one hand and reaching for the switch with the other as opposed to rolling toward the garage, reaching for the switch and only having control of the throttle.
10) attach the correct power wires to the battery terminals
11) fasten the remote under the elastic band holding the ecm
There it is no flashing lights, horns to trigger the opener, and most important to me, no need to hack up the bike harness.
keep in mind that since the transmitter is under the seat it will not have the range that they do on your car visor but it beats punching in your code on a codelock or walking through the house/garage to open the door
for that extra mile i used the soldering gun to "shave" the button on the remote and painted the box so most people would never recognize what it is...
