Any Motorcycle Techs/mechanics Experienced This Clutch Problem?

zook

zook

Registered
My 08 Busa has 8,000 easy old man miles ( Never raced ) has been sitting for a few years and wouldn't run. So i handled the fuel issue but now when i pull in the clutch and put it into first it just jumps into gear and kills the motor even if i pull up into second gear it does the same like the clutch hydraulics weren't working. I thought i just needed to bleed it but that didn't help. I felt up under the slave cover and I can feel the rod pushing in the clutch and it stays under tension throughout the stroke both in and out. and there's a good inch of travel and doesn't fade. also there are no leaks of any kind and the oil was just changed. do you think maybe some plates just stuck together? any ideas? I would appreciate your input.
 
nosbig said:
Pull the clutch cover and check out what's going on in there. You should be able to pull the clover without draining the oil.
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I pulled the cover to make sure the slave piston was actuating and everything looks fine and no loss of fluid or fluid pressure then I put it back on and checked rod actuation and that is also fine. I wonder if i suspended the rear wheel and shifted through all the gears without using the clutch if that would free something up. it was working fine when i stopped riding it due to a work accident a few years ago. it only has 8,000 miles on it. something happened while sitting
 
When you had it off, did you check and make sure your plates were moving freely and not hung up or stuck together?
 
Your clutch plates are probably stuck together from sitting. They'll break loose if you're able to ride it. That's the challenge though.
This is what I've done in the past. If you can get on a hill and start it in nuetral, then drop the clutch youll get moving, then give throttle/let off, repeat. If the clutch pack is stuck from sitting it should break loose quickly. You have to be prettypretty good at getting the bike back into neutral under load, and there can't be any traffic or obstacles around, AND you have to have a trailer at the bottom if the hill in case it doesnt break loose. Hmmm, maybe this was the worst advice ever. It'll work, but you may not live through it.
OR, pull the clutch pack and separate the plates/steels and reassemble. You'll likely need a clutch cover gasket for the job, and make sure the bike is leaned over on the sidestand when you pull the cover, that way you won't loose oil.
 
Last edited:
pull the clutch separate everything soak in oil and replace. also change out the fluid in the clutch slave cylinder suck it all out and replace and bleed.
 
AQTCJAK said:
pull the clutch separate everything soak in oil and replace. also change out the fluid in the clutch slave cylinder suck it all out and replace and bleed.
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What he said. Pull the pack soak in oil to break them loose, then reinstall. I think it would be easier to go pickup a new gasket (that you may not need) for $10 than dive bombing down a hill with only your kill switch to save you if things go wrong.
 
Soak first you don't want to use to much pressureto separate them. They will bend, then your buying a new pack.
 
i'm going to pull the cover tonight. I already flushed out the hydraulics with dot 4 and bled it out. also I strapped it on the dyno and free balled it speed shifting through the gears. it worked well through all the gears. but still didn't free up so cover comes off next. never had this happen before. I't's like when you work on 12 cars a day and never have a problem child, but everything on your own car turns out to be a pain in the ass. thanks for everyone's feedback and advice.
 
Before you start pulling stuff apart start with the simplest first. Check your side stand safety switch, bypass it if necessary. If its not functioning properly and thinks the side stand is down it will kill the engine no matter what gear you put it into.
 
1 wheel peel said:
Before you start pulling stuff apart start with the simplest first. Check your side stand safety switch, bypass it if necessary. If its not functioning properly and thinks the side stand is down it will kill the engine no matter what gear you put it into.
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i'll check that but when i put it in gear it jerks hard into gear. i'm glad I was mashing down on the brakes it wanted to take off.
 
Back in the day before you started a bike, after it sat, you'd put it in high gear, pull in the clutch then rock it back and forth to free up the clutch plates.
Then start in neutral, pull in the clutch, count to 10 then put it in gear.
 
shade said:
Any update interested in hearing what's going on with it
Click to expand...
I got sidetracked based on the suggestion to check the safety cut outs like the kickstand switch which when disconnected or shorted didn't change anything so that's appears to be ok, and I suspended the rear wheel had my buddy spin the tire and I dropped it into gear it I speed shifted through all the gears, up to 6 and back to 1 about ten times. everything feels normal, tach and speedo were normal. i will check for codes, then I will pull the clutch basket apart. At least it's accessible. I've had worse ones to get to.
 
shade said:
Any update interested in hearing what's going on with it
Click to expand...
What a mess, the front plates were like new and loose but the center 5 or 6 were just one piece. no rust but glued together I soaked them in oil for a couple days and then tried to separate them but all the drive and driven plates were fused together and were destroying the fiber. I've had bikes sit in a shed for ten years and run perfectly with very little prep. if I had put it on the rear wheel lift at least the oil wouldn't have ran down into the lower sump and would have stayed on the plates. that's one of the downfalls of having a right side clutch and a side stand that lets the bike lean enough to empty the clutch basket cavity. It was my own fault for not dry docking the bike in storage mode. it was only supposed to be a few months and then one month led into a year the 2 then 3 stupid mistake on my part. Anybody know the best place to buy a clutch kit. I won't use the dealer. Thanks guys for all your input
 
You can find clutch packs just about anywhere online. OEM is one of the best clutch pack you can get for street use. I am running a Trac King pack in my busa but not sure that it is any better than stock.
 
I read in mcn newspaper that the best standard clutch is in the hayabusa. Firms like radical put them in cars weighing more than twice as much and they cope fine
 
Does anyone know why my clutch pack has 10 fiber and 9 steel plates. but all the ones I could find on ebay and at cycle gear have like (8 and 7) or even (7 and 6) yet claim to be original equipment. are they just thicker and take less plates or what? I'd like to stay original with the 10 and 9.
 
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