Auto shifting

Kainedogg

Registered
Has anyone used the auto-shifting capability in Ecueditor in conjunction with a CO2 kit? :beerchug:

Since I refuse to lose weight and the newer ZX14's are wearing my '08's azz out I am formulating a plan; a plan strongly based on the features found in EEC 2.0. Extensions, 30 shot with smith by Busa nitrous kit harness, launch control, Shinko tire, and Cycle-Tek CO2, and a custom tune :whistle:
 
I would just run the cycle-tek package that works through the ECU and use the horn button to shift.

I've heard mixed reviews on the auto shift version...
 
Haven't kept up with it to know about any issues, but auto-shift is sweet for racing, takes the human out of the equation :laugh:
 
Question, if you're running NOS, will you be using that to shift as well ?
 
remember auto shift works with RPM if your street tire spins, guess what? you now upshifted dont even bother trying to back pedal the throttle, your done. Auto shift if your handicapped or not cordinated enough to hit a shift button on your target set rpm shift.
 
Question, if you're running NOS, will you be using that to shift as well ?
Not necessarily, it was simply an added treat should all else fail :laugh:
remember auto shift works with RPM if your street tire spins, guess what? you now upshifted dont even bother trying to back pedal the throttle, your done. Auto shift if your handicapped or not cordinated enough to hit a shift button on your target set rpm shift.
Fair enough. Thought it was interesting technology and wanted feedback and thus far...I think I am getting it.
 
remember auto shift works with RPM if your street tire spins, guess what? you now up-shifted don't even bother trying to back pedal the throttle, your done. Auto shift if your handicapped or not cordinated enough to hit a shift button on your target set rpm shift.

Ditto. A bump in the track or a slight spin up 60 ft out, and your in the wrong gear and you tossed your pass. I think the even bigger problem with auto-shifting is you occasionally need to shift to keep the front end down. The safest gentlest way to get out of a wheelie that gets to high is to short shift. Torque drops and you gently come down. If you get out of practice shifting the bike, you end up chopping throttle and throwing away the pass. Chopping throttle from the 1:00 O'clock position is a great way to smash your oil pan as well.

That being said, I have seen 4th / 5th gear autoshifting work very well. The 1/2 and 2/3 shift (I think) are dangerous to autoshift, but in the upper gears, you are much less likely to lift up the front or spin the tire, and you really are trying to eek out maximum rear wheel torque so a perfect shift point does make a difference in the higher gears. ECU editor doesn't offer this, but I know several people who autoshift in higher gears who run deadly accurate dial ins. Nothing off the shelf that I am aware. Have to make your own system using a PLC or other method. I don't do upper gear autoshifting because it adds a certain level of complexity (counting gears etc.).
 
I don't use it for the same reason stated above. Wheel spin, wheelie, etc...I want to do the shifting when "I" want it (via a button).

Also, I know guys that have used it in land speed and logs show it doesn't consistently shift at the same/correct RPM. It may or may not shift at the predetermined RPM set in the ECU.
 
I ran an autoshift for 2 years at the track. Loved it. IMO on the spin causing the shift. If you are at 8500 rpm and it spins causing the rpm to bump allowing a shift, it is likely a good thing and you pass may be better than rolling off and back on and then making the shift. If you are at 5000 rpm and it spins up to 10k+, your pass is already screwed. I ran many, many passes where I carried the front wheel 3-12 inches off the track past the 1/8 mile mark. The autoshift clicking away perfectly along the way. But.... I never really had the tire spin issues some have had. Tire selection and my short wheelbase helped.

I also set my autoshift up with a toggle where up was button only, center off, and down was auto with button override. If I wanted to shift earlier while I was in auto mode I'd just thumb the button. I was controlling it with a USB hub on my PCIII and my logs always showed the shifts at the correct point. Way more consistant that when I was manually shifting with a shift light.

Your mileage may vary but I was very happy with mine. This was running 9.30s to 10.20s over a couple of years with a Stock to +3" wheelbase bike.
 
Has anyone used the auto-shifting capability in Ecueditor in conjunction with a CO2 kit? :beerchug:

Since I refuse to lose weight and the newer ZX14's are wearing my '08's azz out I am formulating a plan; a plan strongly based on the features found in EEC 2.0. Extensions, 30 shot with smith by Busa nitrous kit harness, launch control, Shinko tire, and Cycle-Tek CO2, and a custom tune :whistle:

It sounded like a 200 RWHP bike. Good thoughts regardless.
 
Ditto. A bump in the track or a slight spin up 60 ft out, and your in the wrong gear and you tossed your pass.
a bump or spin and u've tossed ur pass anyway. and a slight spin wont cause you to shift into the next gear unless ur RPM's go all the way up to 10,500 or wherever u have it set at and if thats the case then it surely isnt a slight spin and like stated ur pass is over anyway.

I have it on mine and if I spin a little it doesnt mean I automatically shift up to the next gear. never seen that happen and I use it often on the street where im far more likely to spin then at the track.
 
Can you not connect your autoshift with your shiftlight wires?

No. Too big of an amperage draw.

I had an autoshifter on my old bike for years. I loved it, especially when spraying, it allows you to watch the track instead of the Tach. Any time my bike would have spun bad enough to ruin the run, it would not have mattered whether I had autoshift or not. The pass was ruined either way.
 
I tried just connecting the shift light to a relay, then activate the air shifter, but that did not hold the shift long enough. It started the shift, which killed the ignition, which dropped the rpm which stopped the shift. So I then hooked up a kick stand switch from a different bike that would turn "off" the shifter when the shift was done. This made everything work well, with the slight issue of the 1-2 shift is longer than the rest, although I think I could have gotten it working (got 2-3 and up working well) for all of them, but then was reading that this could cause issues with nitrous if you were using the ECU editor to add fuel. What happens is that if you spin, then upshift then grip the motor boggs and the editor does not keep up the correct extra fuel, and you go lean and bad things happen to the motor. So I figured I'd just learn to get better at hitting the button.

I don't know any of this to be true, just going by what I read here.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/nitrous/125368-sparying-auto-shift-2.html
 
Can you not connect your autoshift with your shiftlight wires?

With a solid state relay hooked to the shift light and a 12v supply to the work side, yes you can. More trouble than it is worth just to save on making a ECU editor harness IMHO.
 
I just tried that. It did not hold the shift long enough to get into the next gear. At least with my setup.
 
Back
Top