Bad gas??

[DropBusa]

Okay fellas(and ladies) i think i might have come across some bad 93 gas. Kinda noticed a very slight knocking sound. Only hear it when i turn my head in specific directions. So if you were to see me i look like a dog thats found something very intresting.  

Spoke with a buddy of mine and told him i was looking for some high octane booster just to run through. He tells me about some 100 octane down the road from the base. I make the trip to the new Citco and fill her up with the brand new 100 for 7.99 a gallon.  

  Hop back on her and take her out to the highway. I no longer heard the knocking sound, but i did notice a new sort of "hissing" sound. The best way i can explain it is it sounds like shes sayin "YES..... gimme more!!!" The throttle response is rediculous, the roar she makes is something different. Ma lady wants more of the good juice!! But at 8 bucks a gal. im not sure shes gonna get it that often.
Any similar expiriences,?  or do i need to lay off the pipe

?

 

 

[BIKE DUDE]

I'd like to find some of that and try it for myself. Glad the noise went away.

 

[99'busa]

sorry. high octane is like crack. It only takes once and she's addicted. Good luck with your new addicted girlfriend.

 

[JBradley0181]

Cant remember who told me but they said to run 87 in the busa that is what it calls for hope that was wright cause i filled it the other day??? and glad your knocking went away man

 

[Purple1300]

im not sure shes gonna get it that often.

Oh sure, leave her wanting more!!!

 

[99'busa]

im not sure shes gonna get it that often.

Oh sure, leave her wanting more!!!

I NEVER leave my girls needing more. They get whatever "octane" they want.

 

[Mr Bogus]

unless you have the combustion pressures that require it, high octane fuels do nothing for you.. a stock motor has no need for high octane fuels unless your motor is running hot. (the power output of 1 gallon of gasoline is the same no mater the octane unless the fuel has been oxygenated) Do some research on fuel...

 

[Rayabusa0818]

Cant remember who told me but they said to run 87 in the busa that is what it calls for hope that was wright cause i filled it the other day??? and glad your knocking went away man  

That is correct for Gen1, Gen2 recommends 91 octane or above.

 

[DropBusa]

 unless you have the combustion pressures that require it, high octane fuels do nothing for you.. a stock motor has no need for high octane fuels unless your motor is running hot.  (the power output of 1 gallon of gasoline is the same no mater the octane unless the fuel has been oxygenated)  Do some research on fuel...

Hey man, you dont have to cut my neck.

I was running high octane through it for the clean burn. Deposits clear out using higher octane no?

I usually follow your knowledge, but i could've sworn the higher octanes burn off the "yuck"

 

[Mr Bogus]

unless you have the combustion pressures that require it, high octane fuels do nothing for you.. a stock motor has no need for high octane fuels unless your motor is running hot. (the power output of 1 gallon of gasoline is the same no mater the octane unless the fuel has been oxygenated) Do some research on fuel...

Hey man, you dont have to cut my neck.

I was running high octane through it for the clean burn. Deposits clear out using higher octane no?

I usually follow your knowledge, but i could've sworn the higher octanes burn off the "yuck"

Octane is the measure of a fuels resistance to burning (short definition)

Some fuels contain more detergents than others however.

Your temporary "spark knock" if that is what it was, was likely a chunk of carbon that was glowing after the burn.. As the piston came up to compress the fresh air/fuel charge, it could have been providing the "pre-ignition" A high octane fuel "could" have stopped the noise for sure. But it is typically a short lived problem (carbon gets knocked loose)

I did see the tag on the Gen2 Busa and it wants 91 octane (R+M method)

The oil companies banter back and forth about fuel system additives (cleaners if you will) and frankly I have no idea if any one is better than any other..

The "best" combustion chamber cleaner I have ever been able to "verify" is water injection. (and it will provide a little additional power to boot) The "steam" cleans up carbon and other deposits pretty nicely..

I think that most fuels around the country are now oxygenated with alcohol and that will usually carry a bit more water and act as a fuel system/combustion chamber cleaner.

If you are running a Gen1 stick with regular fuel and use the money you save to buy a dose of injector cleaner..

 

[Mr Bogus]

Oh I actually have a tool that I built for "de-carbonizing" combustion chambers...

you need a small air control valve. (like used on fish tank air lines to control air flow)
a couple feet of thin hose to fit the valve
and liter pop bottle..

fill the bottle with water
Connect the hose to the valve and put one end in the bottle of water and the other end goes to a vacuum port on the motor

Start the engine and allow it to come up to temp..

now "SLOWLY" open the valve a small amount and watch the water flow (this is a very slow flow)
pick up the flow slowly until the motor just starts to sputter a bit and then back the flow a bit

allow the motor to digest the contents of your water bottle.
Just as the end of the water comes up, cut off the motor and let it sit for about half an hour..

When you refire the bike, you can whack the throttle pretty hard a couple times or just do a hard run up through 1st gear.

Should pretty much remove any carbon build up in the cylinder...

 

[99'busa]

 unless you have the combustion pressures that require it, high octane fuels do nothing for you.. a stock motor has no need for high octane fuels unless your motor is running hot.  (the power output of 1 gallon of gasoline is the same no mater the octane unless the fuel has been oxygenated)  Do some research on fuel...

Hey man, you dont have to cut my neck.

 I was running high octane through it for the clean burn. Deposits clear out using higher octane no?

I usually follow your knowledge, but i could've sworn the higher octanes burn off the "yuck"      

Octane is the measure of a fuels resistance to burning (short definition)

Some fuels contain more detergents than others however.

Your temporary "spark knock" if that is what it was, was likely a chunk of carbon that was glowing after the burn.. As the piston came up to compress the fresh air/fuel charge, it could have been providing the "pre-ignition"   A high octane fuel "could" have stopped the noise for sure. But it is typically a short lived problem (carbon gets knocked loose)

I did see the tag on the Gen2 Busa and it wants 91 octane (R+M method)

The oil companies banter back and forth about fuel system additives (cleaners if you will) and frankly I have no idea if any one is better than any other..  

The "best" combustion chamber cleaner I have ever been able to "verify" is water injection.  (and it will provide a little additional power to boot)  The "steam" cleans up carbon and other deposits pretty nicely..

I think that most fuels around the country are now oxygenated with alcohol and that will usually carry a bit more water and act as a fuel system/combustion chamber cleaner.

If you are running a Gen1   stick with regular fuel and use the money you save to buy a dose of injector cleaner..

so I'm wasting my money on 93 octane? Does it actually run "better" on 87 octane. I've never tried them, but those "octane boosters" in the store, are those "oxygenating" or a waste of money.

 

[Mr Bogus]

you have a modified motor... changes everything..

the octane requirements are based (for the most part) on combustion pressures and heat.. When you went big bore, you changed both.. (I think you should slow pull 1 spark plug myself, I carried the wheel through second gear trying to keep up with you)

Dyno time is really needed for a modified motor to tell the tale there.. (an experienced builder can tell you what you need)

Octane boosters work pretty well (good ones anyway) but they loose efficiency rapidly (diminishing returns) and most cost as much as good fuel.. (I prefer Analine oil based boosters for cars when racing not sure what the bike guys use)

 

[99'busa]

PM -->

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.. (I think you should slow pull 1 spark plug myself, I carried the wheel through second gear trying to keep up with you)

I finally got it tuned and believe it or not I was SO far out of tune that day....I picked up 15 hp after the tune.

 I'll ask Mark what gas to use. I'm also only using oem plugs right now. Should I go with iridium?