Bazzaz Installation

[BusaBenny]

hey guys. A few quick easy questions about installing the bazzaz afi and the afm self mapper.

1. Do I really need to remove the gas tank?

2. Any better installation instructions? YouTube, PDF, etc.

3. Will the self mapper o2 sensor die after about 50 hours of use?

4. Can I just leave the self mapper o2 sensor in the bung when I'm not self mapping?

Thanks guys.

 

[fallenarch]

Well?

 

[BusaBenny]

Well I didn't get any answers yet. Lol.

I tried emailing bazzaz but they never reported back. Tomorrow I'm going to wing it, install it with the tank and the instructions I have. I'll try to find an answer to the o2 questions.

 

[notright]

Yes, take the tank off. It makes it much easier. I had a lot of trouble at first , kept getting a code. I prolly took it off and put it on 10 times.I got really good at it though. Turns out they reversed two of the pins in one of the plugs. I just assumed it was me. the instructions are pretty easy. I got in touch with Bazazz and they walked me right through how to check and fix the problem. Take the extra time to route the wires neatly and watch for chaffing points. I have had mine for around 7 years without a problem. Good luck.

 

[Mythos]

I also had pin trouble. Got an FI code. Did the jumper wire trick to id the code and it pointed straight to the injector where the pin was bent.

I received excellent tech support from Francois at Bazzaz. I hope he is still there. He immediately suggested that I inspect the pins very closely. Apparently it is not uncommon to find a bent pin. Mine was bent so slightly I would have never thought anything was amiss even after looking at it. The pins must be perfectly straight. You just stick a small steel tool in there and bend it straight. I'll bet that is all you have going on.

I have a thread on here somewhere about the problem I had. It was about 3 years ago.

Here's how to diagnose FI code if you want to do that.

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gene...-diagnose-fi-light-obtain-ecu-fault-code.html

here is my "bent pin." As you can tell, it does not need to be bent much to misalign with the female contact.

Yes, I removed the fuel tank right off the bike. I have a tutorial on here about that too. Let me know if you need the link.

I still need to get my O2 sensor bung welded in and have yet to put my ZAFM on. I'm curious to here how yours works. I've got a reasonable amount of experience with AutoTune on my ZX-14 and I like that a lot.....though probably not real necessary if you have a good map for your elevation. Lots of fun to play with though and if you use nitrous or boost, you need it.

 

[BusaBenny]

Mythos. Thank you for the information. Please attach the link to your tutorial. So far all I've done is take the tank off, the seat and hump off. I didn't see any bent pins. I'll post my zafm results when it's on.

 

[Mythos]

Fuel tank Removal:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/gen-2-how-to-remove-fuel-tank.168658/

Bazzaz Power Source:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/switch-power-for-bazzaz-afm.168140/
Many people do not like the T taps because the may cut through a few strands of wire v Posi Taps that would just push the strands aside. I must agree but I have had no issues at all using the T tap included with the ZFI kit. It's a lot neater looking too. You could always solder in a permanent connection or tap outlet in the same spot.

ZAFM:
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/zafm-of-any-use-with-a-good-map.117156/
As mentioned previously, this will probably not make a day and night dif if you have a good map. Ypou can tune for other things like fuel economy in the cruise zone though...or high altitude...or NOS, etc. Actyally, The self tuners by DJ are slow and Bazzaz is even a bit slower. You have to use them like you would on a dyno or you will not get good results. It is very methodical and totally distracting from enjoying a ride but very fascinating if yyou are curious about tuning. I can probably save you a lot of time learning how to use this if you keep in touch. I got the DJ system down and Bazzaz can't be a lot different....damn, just wish they would have welded my O2 sensor bung in the right place so I would have mine set up.

O2 bung plug
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/will-an-o2-bung-plug-fall-out.117114/

Bazzaz v PC5
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/pc3-or-pcv.104042/
That info is dated. Pretty sure DJ now has a PC5 for 8 injectors. I'd say either one, Bazzaz or DJ. DJ does have a PC5+Ignition which would be a big advantage but sure you can get an ignition controller somewhere if you like. SB-6 was a great one but they do not make it anymore.

And that is about all I got on the Bazzaz. Sorry, no install titorial. Wish I would have taken pics. The Bazzaz instructions were pretty straight forward. Make sure you get your primary conectrs to the primaries and secondary connectors to the secondaries...I forget if the primary is the top or bottom but that is common knowledge to many people on here.

Make sure you don't have bent pins----mine was very tricky!

"3. Will the self mapper o2 sensor die after about 50 hours of use?

4. Can I just leave the self mapper o2 sensor in the bung when I'm not self mapping?"

Leave it in. My Bosch sensor in the 14's DJ system has been in for 8 years and still tests perfectly. If it is welded at an agle so it cannot collect condensation, it should be good for a long time. I have heard of them burning out but mostly due to rust from improper weld angle. There is not adequate clearance under the oil pan....no way to weld that sucker at the right angle. IN fact, I cannot even get my sensor in. I guess the welder did not know there was an oil pan above the bung. That is why I cannot use my ZAFM until I get a new bung put in. Sucks cutting up this pipe for nothing. Francois had some good advice on positioning the O2 sensor. Farther back--where the pipe starts to angle up to the muffler. Best placed closer to the header, I believe but we are limited with space on the busa.

 

[BusaBenny]

Mythos thanks for all the good information. I put the unit on without any problems. I actually did it with the tank on. I did have it off but I put it back on to go for a ride. It wasn't bad with the tank propped up. The directions were actually useful. Basically once you get the lower and upper injector connections hooked up, there are only a few connections left. Once hooked up you just connect it to your laptop. My bazzaz came loaded with a map for my bike. The only problem I ran into was my R77 exhaust doesn't have a bung for the zafm wideband o2 sensor. So I bought a bung for $10 off Amazon and I'll have a shop weld the bung on. The only question now is can I get put the o2 sensor in my midpipe so it gets all the exhaust from all 4 pipes.

 

[Mythos]

As you point out, the sensor is sniffing more exhaust from bank than the other if placed near the front of the collector. I have been told this makes very little difference by a few knowledgeable people. Some people actually put an O2 sensor on each head pipe to sample each cylinder individually but this is going way above and beyond. There really shouldn't be enough difference between one cylinder and another for all but the most serious racers. However, I would sure prefer to sample all the cylinders mixed just because it seems more balanced. Really though, what if one cylinder was running a little rich??? If you only want to adjust that one cylinder, you would need the 4 sensor setup to determine which one it was.

It's been a while since I looked at my exhaust but one thing's for sure, bring the whole bike in and have the welder do his work ON THE BIKE and DO bring fairings in to test clearance. If you just take the pipe in, he won't know what kind of clearance he's working with and the sensor probably will not go in if he puts the bung in at the correct angle. The seller of the pipe I bought had the bung put in and they did it wrong....well they did it right but right is wrong if positioned directly after the collector. Anywhere under the oil pan, there is not room to put the 3" long sensor if the bung is angled upward as it should be.

Here you see my problem. A sensor just won't fit there. If the bung had been welded perpendicular to the ground, it might go in but it might also hit the inside of the bodywork. Where the collector couples with the midpipe would work but that would not be a good place to weld a bung. Looks like there might be room just before where the collector joins the midpipe but man that is awful tight.

I think welding the bung right about where the pipe bends upward straight down from the swing arm pivot would sample a mixture of all cylinders with the bung welded almost dead center on top --no interference with bodywork and no condensation will collect. Just make sure there is clearance for movement of the swingarm but that should not move that much so close the the swing arm pivot. The wire could go up with the fuel tank drain hoses and then run along the tail frame to the trunk. I presume you put the ZFi in the trunk. That is where I have mine. The AFM will go there too along with an SB6 if I can find one. I would talk to Francois about placing the bung here. We were discussing it several years ago and he felt it would be better for the reasons I just mentioned--plus it is the only place it definitely will fit. Only problem I can see is that there may be sensor confusion from exhaust reverberation that far back. Possible problem---I do not know this for a fact. I believe Francois said it would not be a problem. You gotta talk to that guy--he might have new info after all this time.

 

[BusaBenny]

Mythos we are on the same page. The lower end of the midpipe near the collector is where I'm going to mount the bung. I called bazzaz and bazzaz said that that spot would be fine. I would like to get it right where all 4 pipes meet but like you said, there is no room. So this Friday I'm going to have a local shop do it.

 

[Mythos]

GREAT! Let us know how that goes. I may get on this project before winter sets in.