Best 1 rotor front brake setup questions

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drunkenmonke

Registered
I already have decided I want to ride with one rotor, so please don't turn this into a debate over one or two rotors or a flaming thread.

I have read a few posts on here that say the master cylinder needs to be changed out for better performance when riding with one. If I am going to one I want the best setup.

First off I don't want to sound like a noob but which side would I leave on?
Does anyone know the part numbers or what year and model bikes work for an upgraded 1 rotor setup? I want a stainless steel brake line(preferably Galfer but what size or part number?), upgraded rotor(preferably Galfer), master cylinder(which is best?), different caliper(which one?), pads?, and hopefully the block off plate that Pashnit sells will fit my '09.

Thanks for all of your help as usual. :banghead:
 
Pashnit is a Galfer dealer, you should talk to him about what's available. Radial master cylinder and aftermarket calipers are Very expensive too. If you're doing this with the intent of adding aftermarket wheels at some point, keep in mind that all the chrome fancy designs are usually significantly heavier than stock as well.
To each there own, and good luck with whatever you decide.
In case you can't tell either, I'm not a gear nazi, that's a personal choice.:thumbsup:
 
Monke, Not sure if there's an answer on which side is best. Never read a thread on that.

Galfer Buy Now:
Galfer Brake Lines, Wave Rotors & Brake Pads: Buy Now | Pashnit Moto

Galfer Wave Rotors come standard in a black carrier or chrome. We can also custom anodize the inner carrier & buttons for a true one-off custom look if you don't want chrome on the rotor. (DF351 - $289 for black carrier, $315 for chrome). Custom colors will run you $50-$100.

We do sell a block off plate for the front rim from PMR Components. Comes in black or billet ($50) but it's only for the 99-07. Likely a Gen-II does exist.

Yes, you can order a Galfer single stainless braided line (FK003D623-1) for the front ($50). Custom colors are free. Custom banjo fittings on the ends if you want that are $25 (gold, black, red, blue, etc).

Master Cylinders: We are a Brembo dealer & Accossato Dealer when it comes to master cylinders & calipers. These are top of the line racing components so neither apologizes for their price points. A Brembo brake master cylinder will run you $324. Accossato $235-293. You'll also need the brake pressure switch ($20) and a remote reservoir ($65) when you do this mod.

There are other cheaper brands on the master cylinder, we just sell the stuff that makes you drool all over yourself.

Accossato Radial Brake & Clutch Master Cylinder: FREE Shipping | Pashnit Moto

We can also source a Nissin Radial Brake Master at much less in the $200 range.

Calipers you are probably headed more towards a custom show setup. Chrome? Generally we see owners take stock calipers and power coat them or get them chromed.

We can source a Roaring Toyz front Caliper for the Gen-II & those run $250 each in black or chrome.

Brake Pads: Galfer & EBC are favorites here, we can ship either, but we stock the Galfer pads. ($40 per rotor)

EBC Extreme Pro Pads are also popular and run $80 per rotor. They are pricey but those who buy them want the absolute best.

Overall, create your budget for your build & make it happen. And don't listen to these guys. It's your bike, build it how you want it.
 
Pashnit, Thank you for the time you took out of your day to help me out. I will at least be ordering the lines and possibly rotors from you hopefully in the next week or so.
 
it doesn't matter which side the rotor is on.
You don't need to upgrade the brake caliper.
It can't hurt to go with a tougher rotor
Braided line is a very good choice (Should be low price since you only need one line).
The master cylinder is key. You don't just replace the OE one with an aftermarket one. You need one with the correct ratio to function properly with your single caliper and line.
If you just buy an aftermarket replacement master cylinder you haven't corrected anything to compensate for the single caliper.
 
well, here's my input. i ride with one rotor and it on the left side, i have no problem stopping, no problem with handling. all stock parts. take a look my mods, i've posted :thumbsup: pictures of my bike.
 
i would think you would want the rotor on the left side (clutch side) so when your bike is on the stand people could see your wheels, and it aids in cleaning rims. guess it depends on why your going this route. my bike already had this done, i have never ridden another busa to compare if their is any difference in stooping power, but I don't have any problems. I am saving up to have the other rotor installed and chromed though. good luck with the project stay safe

IMG_0145.jpg


IMG00022.jpg
 
Very good information here... How would I determine the correct ratio for the master cylinder? Also Pashnit, when I went to your site I could not find an option to order just one line or rotor.
 
Lets keep the discussion ON topic please. The man asked for help, if you dont have information relating to the question, please dont post. I may remind you to review rule #4 of the Essential Rules. https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/misc.php?do=cfrules

There are many Busa's on the street with a single front rotor, people come here for help, not be brow beaten.

Thank you,

Twotone
 
Monke, the only info I can give you is that Tim (pashnit) is a stand up dude who know his stuff so you can take any info or advice he gives you to the bank. Hope you find what your looking for.
 
drunkenmonke said:
Very good information here... How would I determine the correct ratio for the master cylinder? Also Pashnit, when I went to your site I could not find an option to order just one line or rotor.
Click to expand...

Monke, regarding the single line, it's not a stock part so we would not have a listing for it. Part number is the same, but the suffix changes denoting a single line (FK003D623-2 vs. FK003D623-1). More a custom order we hand-walk through the system, but very simple to do. Single braided lines by Galfer will run you $50 (any color) & we'll ship it for free.

As for the Brake Master, can use the Accossato page as a good guide. Note there are multiple models and you buy for application.

Accossato Radial Brake & Clutch Master Cylinder: FREE Shipping | Pashnit Moto

Brembo nomenclature looks much the same.

Also note SKECHE's post: all stock parts and no issues.
 
So Gen1 busa's have non-radial master cylinders and Gen2's have radial master cylinders? A friend of mine that drag races told me to keep the one on the left side so when they bike is braking (using both rear and front brakes) the bike doesn't pull towards the right side (if the rotors were on the right side only, I.E. right rear rotor single front rotor on the right).
 
many of us...myself included have ridden with a single rotor on the street, even at the track. It will stock, even if you just use the stock pieces and just remove the second rotor and line. However there are better ways to do it. spending a little cash will get you a pretty effective brake system....taking a brake system off another bike that came with a single rotor would be the cheapest way to do it.

and like someone already said, you will want the rotor on the left side.....to show off the wheel better.
 
Ok I just spent part of the morning removing the right side and leaving just the left one on with all stock parts. I bled the line and I went for a ride and I can honestly say I am not impressed, it was a huge difference to me. I expected the front wheel to lift easier because of the loss of unsprung weight but it didn't. I didn't feel completely comfortable braking hard.

I did order 1 front and 1 rear galfer stainless brake line today from Tim(Pashnit) who was extremely helpful and I am hoping it may make braking slightly better. If that does not work I will go to better rotors and pads next.

I am going to leave it off for now but I am still curious and skeptical about any upgraded parts making it better. I also haven't removed the right side rotor yet in case i want to go back to the dual system.
:banghead:
 
drunkenmonke said:
Ok I just spent part of the morning removing the right side and leaving just the left one on with all stock parts. I bled the line and I went for a ride and I can honestly say I am not impressed, it was a huge difference to me. I expected the front wheel to lift easier because of the loss of unsprung weight but it didn't. I didn't feel completely comfortable braking hard.

I did order 1 front and 1 rear galfer stainless brake line today from Tim(Pashnit) who was extremely helpful and I am hoping it may make braking slightly better. If that does not work I will go to better rotors and pads next.

I am going to leave it off for now but I am still curious and skeptical about any upgraded parts making it better. I also haven't removed the right side rotor yet in case i want to go back to the dual system.
:banghead:
Click to expand...

Wheelies are my thing. If you want them to be even easier, remove the secondary throttle plates, or get the ECU Editor and open them to full 94% all the time, as well as removing 1st through 4th grear timing restrictions.
A 46 tooth rear sprocket fits the stock chain and shortens the wheelbase about 1.5", makes wheelies a breeze.
If not, just use more throttle, stock Busa does mile long wheelies just fine:beerchug:
 
Single rotors work fine, but they are tough on parts since they are doing twice the work they were designed for. Check, replace, and repeat... frequently

By the way EBC HH pads make a huge difference. Keep the stock master cylinder, but the stock pads don't have enough stick.

brakes3.jpg
 
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