Best Hayabusa mods for <$3k?

[OB_lizardman]

I'm getting ready to pick up a new '00 Hayabusa, and wondered what good fixes you all can recommend. I've owned a stock '99 for a year, and with this new bike I've got a little extra cash to spend... and I'm ready for some more power/better response.

Besides a gel seat kevlar brake lines, better brake pads and a new jacket, what would be the best way to spend $2000 - $3000? I've got a wife and 1.8 kids, and can't justify an additional $5-6k or more for a 300+bhp turbo monster or full engine mods (BTW, check out http://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes/bikes.asp?page=Latest+Bike+News&id=715
for a Hayabusa everyone can drool over...)

What do you think? Best mods for under $3k, let's have them!

 

[OB_rick phillips]

I would go with
(1) motorhead air box
(2)Akropovic pipe
(3)pair removal
(4)muzzy fan
(5)pc2
(6)dymag wheels not the carbons that would put you over the 3000.00

 

[OB_Hayawoody]

Rick : Can you do any of those mods you listed seperately? or do any have to be done together at the sametime so the bike will run ok?

 

[OB_lizardman]

Hate to admit this, but I don't know what pair removal and pc2 are...

Also, if you have favorite shopping places (fair prices, honest people) pass that along!

Thanks!

 

[OB_rick phillips]

I would do the first (4) Mods at the same time,cost will be between 1200.00 and 1300.00,that's what I did anyway,You will gain between 10 and 15 H.P. and save 23lb. Very worthwhile doing and you can do it yourself in 6-10 hrs. If you need help it's all here and also Martains board.

 

[OB_rick phillips]

It's also a good idea to do the pc-2 at this time also,it will make the bike run smoother,I haven't had any problem with these mods the bike is faster and handles better!

 

[OB_Hapo]

I don't think most will use the power the stock bike has, and most of those mods make it load and busy at low rpms, like right around 3000...I would leave the mill stock except for a manuale cam chain tensioner...the Dymag wheels are a good upgrade, likely the single most effective one if lighter handleing and braking are goals...I would then fit light wight brake rotors and better pads, steel or kevlar brake lines, and go with a basic package from Race Tech to get the suspension tuned to your weight and riding style...the improvments ae remarkabe, and no one walked off on my stock engine in the straights, but they didn't always hang in the curves...this bike has more power than I can use stock...a set of Michlin Pilot Sport tires are a surprisingly noticable upgrade in hadeling as well...the Busa seems to be especialy resposive to the reduction of unsprung and rolling mass...most change the exhaust to change the exhaust note as much as to gain power, or lose mass, but the power gains and mass reduction those "other" mods offer are real, if not realized by most...

 

[OB_rick phillips]

Check out the dyno charts on Martins site,dyno's don't lie,most stock hayabusa's dyno at 148-152hp the mods I have discribed will get you 162-175hp no stock haybusa can keep up with a properly moded bike esp. in rollons.

 

[OB_Hapo]

Rick, I agree with you to a degree...if we matched gear and RPMs, KawAbusers bike would gain space on me dispite the larger load it had....but it really didn't matter, once we got moving...most are not all that willing to roll it all on anyway...especaily as the speeds rise above 150 or so.....the superiour balanced nature Dymag equiped Race Tech prepared suspension allowed me an advantage over some other modded bikes with more stock suspensions in most conditons...

...that said, I think the package you have put together is exceptional, and would be preffered if one were more concerned with max power under full throttle type conditions, and less concerned with tractibility at small trottle openings and pretending you are on an R1...The Dymag wheels relize 90% of my bike's "Hanlding Package" in my opinion anyway, along with a good boost in usable (by some) power, although the Race Tech suspension helped keep the wheels planted on the ground...

 

[Guest]

Lindemann is to race tech what sachs 5th avenue is to jc penneys.

Im going with a penske 8987 series out back and a full lindemann rework to the forks including the all important nitride coating.
That coating is the single determining factor in superbike level performance and function. Applied to the sliders it reduces stiction over the stock fork by 80% allowing stiffer springs without losing suppleness.
The penske is simply artwork and superior to the ohlins in several ways.
Still, very few hyabusas will be built with roadrace componentry like this. Just a few crazies scattered about.

 

[OB_Hapo]

Tell me again about the rabbits, Omega! Truly, tell me about the Linndman stuff...they are less than Olins forks? More than a Race Tech set up? RaceTech will do an in house "factoy package" rebuild with polishing and nitride coatings too, or they will send you parts to build your forks for a lot less...what are you doing for power? It looks like I am bailing on the Turbo...

 

[OB_rick phillips]

You bring up some good points Hapo ,could you possibly list your suspension mods and there prices?

 

[OB_Wreak Havok]

Lizardman,

Go with the Brock clutch mod and 16-tooth front sprocket too. Not very expensive at all if you have it done with your exhaust labor (there gonna pull all the plastic off anyway).

 

[sherm]

Don't forget the $10 Shermworks sidestand mod. Could save you lots of $$$ in replacement plastic.

Fix it and forget it.

www.shermworks.com/moto.htm

 

[OB_Speeder T]

Omega more information to improve handleing,i
am into carveing corners big time! Already have changed tires to Michilen Pilot Sports
and love them.

 

[OB_Hapo]

1: Dyamg Custom Carbon wheels @ $2600 retail
2: BrakeTech Superlight rotors @ $625
3: Ferodo 911 pads @ $80
4: Yoyodyne Ti rear brake rotor @ $250
5; EBC "green" pads @ 50
6: Race Tech "factoy" package w/o coatings @ $700
7: BMC air filter @ $80
8: Pilot Sports, 190 rear, 120 front, @ $300
9: Side Kick carbon fiber teartdop cans @ $800
10: Goodridge brake lines
11: APE cam chain tensioner @ $50

These prices are rounded and aproximate...the nitride coatings were deleted from the suspension to avoid a long down time, and would add several hundred dollers to the price, but are a very good idea...I just did not want to wait, but the higher quality fluids and polishing job were included...there are other Dymag wheels for nearly $1000 less but 98% as effective...the cans were just somthing I liked...I had the p.a.i.r. valve removed and had the ecu tuned for the cans and filter on a Yosh box at my dealer...I had planned to install a B.A.D. turbo kit...but it is still back ordered...and now I am starting over...the surviving parts will go on the '00...there are some body parts that have nothen to do with performance that survived, some that didn't...the most notable perfomance difference in engine performance was that the bike sounded "better", but ran roughly at about 3000 rpm...the handling characteristics were improved dramaticly, and the tendency to stand up on the brakes in corners eliminated...the Race Tech suspension kept the wheels planted over stuff that had the stocker kicking up its heels...I never got the rear brake sorted out, it would not bite well, but the front brakes offered a greatly reduced brake fade pulling down from extream speeds repeatedly, but were lousy in the rain and lacked initial bite when cold...the brakes were installed mostly to shed wieght from the wheels...with these mods I had no trouble running in the twisties with a stock '00 GSXR 750, and could open a gap across the straights...but that sucker is fast too! Still, monkey boy was amazed at the way my Busa shreaded the curves and could not get by me anywhere, on the street...although I couldn't shake him either...these mods will trasform the Busa into a much more nimble ride without giving up the unflappable stability at speed that has become a Busa Trademark...

[This message has been edited by Hapo (edited 12 August 2000).]

 

[OB_DanaT]

IF you are wanting to"nitride" your forks go the better route.

Most places use TiN (titanium nitride) which is gold colored. For low friction what you really want is TiAlN (titaiun-aluminum-nitride). This is a purple color. It has about 1/2 the coefficient of friction as TiN.

-Dana

 

[OB_Hapo]

Very cool, thanks for the info. Where to get?Do you send them your suspension components?

 

[OB_Ruff Ryder]

Foe 3495 you can bolt on a Hahn RaceCraft turbosystem.

 

[OB_GSXRboy]

lizard - I think the first question everyone should have asked first should have been: Are you looking to drag race, cruise, or road race the bike???