smudgercharles
Registered
Somebody help me, When driving along after 100meters clocks freeze up the bike still drives ok. When ignition turned off clock still lit up? Battery requires topping up all the time unless you disconect it.
Big Problems
- Thread starter smudgercharles
- Start date
What is the voltage across the terminals with bike off? How old is it?
smudgercharles
Registered
Voltage 14, the bike is a 2000 model
That sounds good. Have you removed the harness from the cluster recently? It could be loose. Try to disconnect and reconnect. Have you made any recent modifications? You say the battery needs charging all the time to keep it up? That could indicate a current draw or a dead short. How long has this been happening, and if it just started, what has changed?
smudgercharles
Registered
It started last september we broke down near Italy the bike had a alarm i got them to take it off thinking it was the problem but things have just got worse. The bike started cutting out in Spain as we headed north it got worse in the end Suzuki Dealer at Annecy took it off. The bike is driving me mad.
I hate electrical demons. Especially if you had an alarm on it and took it off. Have you had it to the dealer? I am in over my head now. Please be patient, someone with more knowledge will chime in soon. BTW, welcome to the oRg.
smudgercharles
Registered
Thanks for your input, Regards Dave.
electrical needs some careful diagnosis or you will spend a ton of $$ fixing
First things: (make sure cables are clean and tight, sounds silly but very often bad connections are the problem)
Voltage of system with engine running at say 2000 rpm (13.2-14.7)
Amount of draw on system with everything turned off (amp meter inline on battery cable) determine if bike is draining battery
How much voltage and amperage is the system capable of? (proper testing required)
A bad rectifier can cause charge/discharge issues if the diode bridges are bad
Battery condition
does it take more than about 14.5 volts to charge? (bad)
Voltage draw test (fully charged battery load test)
As it sounds like you are having problems "while" riding, I would suspect that the charging system is the issue.. It is possible to have adequate voltage and inadequate amperage.. This needs tested before going very far.. A bad battery "normally" only causes problems after shut down and trying to restart and is why it sort of sounds charging system related to me..
Bad cable connections can do all sorts of weird stuff so triple check this.. look closely at all connectors for any melting as well (not all that uncommon)
First things: (make sure cables are clean and tight, sounds silly but very often bad connections are the problem)
Voltage of system with engine running at say 2000 rpm (13.2-14.7)
Amount of draw on system with everything turned off (amp meter inline on battery cable) determine if bike is draining battery
How much voltage and amperage is the system capable of? (proper testing required)
A bad rectifier can cause charge/discharge issues if the diode bridges are bad
Battery condition
does it take more than about 14.5 volts to charge? (bad)
Voltage draw test (fully charged battery load test)
As it sounds like you are having problems "while" riding, I would suspect that the charging system is the issue.. It is possible to have adequate voltage and inadequate amperage.. This needs tested before going very far.. A bad battery "normally" only causes problems after shut down and trying to restart and is why it sort of sounds charging system related to me..
Bad cable connections can do all sorts of weird stuff so triple check this.. look closely at all connectors for any melting as well (not all that uncommon)
smudgercharles
Registered
Smudger is short for Smith old English nick nameSorry to be of no help with the electrical issue...but I HAVE to ask...what's a smudger?
RSVP. If it's not suitable for publication in this open forum, please send me a PM.
Welcome to the club. A great number of members here from the UK.
Ripcord4
Registered
I agree with Mr. Bogus on the checks on the battery, but none of that will correct the problem of the clock staying on. First for the clock to be staying on it has to be getting power from the battery. 99% chance that the reason your having to recharge the battery alot is due to the power being drained by the battery. If you fix the clock problem then more than likely you'll fix the battery issue.
Here my suggestion. Thoroughly inspect the wiring harness as suggested by Fate. The wires could be bare somewhere if they are tape up with electrical tape. What can happen is if two wires are touching and one is for the clock and the other is powered then it powers the clock when turned off. Especially leading from the back of the instument cluster. Make sure you check the connector that plugs in to the cluster and the part on the cluster that it plugs into. Check all the small pins make sure that they arent bent or broken. (I'm talking about the pins for the connector on back of cluster.)
It's also possible that the cluster or the motherboard inside the cluster has a short in which case you'd have to replace the cluster. If a buddy of your has a busa borrow his plug it in and if it works correctly then your cluster is bad. But only do that after you have checked the wire harness and connectors.
Hope this helps some.
Here my suggestion. Thoroughly inspect the wiring harness as suggested by Fate. The wires could be bare somewhere if they are tape up with electrical tape. What can happen is if two wires are touching and one is for the clock and the other is powered then it powers the clock when turned off. Especially leading from the back of the instument cluster. Make sure you check the connector that plugs in to the cluster and the part on the cluster that it plugs into. Check all the small pins make sure that they arent bent or broken. (I'm talking about the pins for the connector on back of cluster.)
It's also possible that the cluster or the motherboard inside the cluster has a short in which case you'd have to replace the cluster. If a buddy of your has a busa borrow his plug it in and if it works correctly then your cluster is bad. But only do that after you have checked the wire harness and connectors.
Hope this helps some.
2Wheels2Live
Registered
Its a short from the alarm wiring. You need to check every wire the alarm was hooked to and make sure they're connected back where they should be, or taped up if they were tapped into. Until you take the time to do that you're gonna have constant probs
