Bike won't fire

GSXRFANN

FLUNKIE
Donating Member
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I have fully charged my battery, made sure I had fuel, and made sure the safeties work. The plugs get SOAKED with fuel. It is almost like there is no spark. I took the plugs out and cleaned them, but the bike still would not fire. Leads me to beleive the coils (or plugs) are not firing.
I guess I will buy another set of plugs and see what happens. I guess cleanning the plugs may not be as good as just replacing them.
Man, I am tired of fighting gremlins on this thing. I just had my air shifter put on, and my shift light hooked up, (by someone that knows what they are doing), and then I hooked up my nitrous myself. The bike fouled one set of plugs while I was playing with the shifter. After that it ran good. Now that it has sat for a while, it won't start!!

I am getting very frustrated! I checked all of my wiring and everything seems to be tight!
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Any suggestions??
 
I would expect something to do with the air shifter as it has an ignition kill built in...

First thing I would do is verify wiring and if that is ok, disconnect the air shifter kill wiring..
 
I would expect something to do with the air shifter as it has an ignition kill built in...

First thing I would do is verify wiring and if that is ok, disconnect the air shifter kill wiring..
I already tried that. It doesn't have to complete a circuit does it? I disconnected the kill switch and the bike still didn't fire.
 
You should probably post the brand of stuff you are using...
I am sure that there are others here with the same system..


I would need to see the wiring schematic to tell you how it works.. and from there how to diagnose it.

Also the nitrous system, are there any connections to the ignition system? or where did you wire the system in at?
 
Brain have you removed your tank?did you check to be sure your tipover switch brackets not broke and hanging?
 
Brain have you removed your tank?did you check to be sure your tipover switch brackets not broke and hanging?
No, I have not removed my tank. Where is the tip-over switch located?
My air shifter is pingel. I did not use a MPS kill box. (The guy just wired it to the coils), so I know there is fuel going into the cylinder when I hit the button, but I haven't cranked the bike in a couple of weeks.
 
So is that a normal install method? just a direct wiring to the coils?

I can not find a copy of the documentation of the system for download..
 
Well, it is normal if you are a cheapskate like me. Basically instead of killing the fuel and spark, the way it is wired now, I just kill the spark when I hit the button. Another buddy of mine had his like that for 3yrs or more and it did great.
I checked all of my connections and they seem to be fine. Maybe that is just something I am going to have to live with (changing plugs alot). Or maybe once I get my exhaust from Daniel, and hook up my PC and get everything tuned, then maybe the issue will go away.
I am going to stop on the way home and buy some more plugs and see. Maybe NGK just doesn't take to a good cleaning...maybe ya just have to replace...
 
old way to check the coils was to insert a screwdriver (with insulated hand)in the plug end and try starting the bike with the driver near the block and look for an arc to occur. Not recommending it but it works. I would check for spark before worrying about plugs. When was the bike last ridden? Any ods since then? Backtrack and troubleshoot, replacinf parts blindly is not smart and somewhat expensive.
 
2 things come to mind:

fuel fouled plugs... the ignition likely not firing
"kills only ignition not fuel".. fuel fouled plugs

Now this could put some load on the plugs due to the fuel flow, but they should clean up within a few revolutions.. I would not run the air shifter on a cold motor..

The bike should still fire all the same.. do you have spark when the motor is turning over?

if not I would pull that kill system.. I would guess that the kill system opens the circuit to the coils (grounding would likely cause excessive load on the system)

If you do have spark when turning over, what color is the spark? (we are looking for blue)

It is always possible that the switch is inducing some resistance to the circuit and killing spark..
 
2 things come to mind:

fuel fouled plugs... the ignition likely not firing
"kills only ignition not fuel"..  fuel fouled plugs

Now this could put some load on the plugs due to the fuel flow, but they should clean up within a few revolutions.. I would not run the air shifter on a cold motor..

The bike should still fire all the same.. do you have spark when the motor is turning over?  

if not I would pull that kill system.. I would guess that the kill system opens the circuit to the coils (grounding would likely cause excessive load on the system)

If you do have spark when turning over, what color is the spark?  (we are looking for blue)

It is always possible that the switch is inducing some resistance to the circuit and killing spark..
I am at a total loss. It happened once before after the bike had been sitting for a while. I replaced the plugs (once again, cleaning did not help) and the bike cranked right up.
Last night, I disconnected the kill switch, and it did not do any good, but I am not sure if the kill switch left an open circuit or what. But when the motor is spinning, if you have the tank lifted, you can smell gas really bad. I don't think the nitrous has anything to do with it because I didn't tap into anything other than a power source.
 
The tip over switch is a brass colored box that is suspended off of a metal bracket underneath the lower tank mount. I came down hard from an accidental wheelie once and mine snapped. Bike would not start until after I zip tied it back into place. Then it was replaced. If I remember correctly, it is about 1 1/2" tall and 3" long.
 
The tip over switch is a brass colored box that is suspended off of a metal bracket underneath the lower tank mount.  I came down hard from an accidental wheelie once and mine snapped.  Bike would not start until after I zip tied it back into place.  Then it was replaced.  If I remember correctly, it is about 1 1/2" tall and 3" long.
Thanks, I will look at that too!! I am just frustrated over this whole mess!
 
I replaced the plugs and it started right up. I think what may have happened is that I have tried to crank it with the battery not fully charged and it just didn't have good spark and fouled the plugs....guess I need to keep the battery on the charger if the bike is going to sit for a couple of weeks.

Thanks guys for the help!!!
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you flooded an ecu controlled, fuel injeected bike because the battery was low? Doesn't sound right. If the bike fell below 12v it won't run so maybe...but doesn't sound right.

I hope it fixed the issue.
 
you flooded an ecu controlled, fuel injeected bike because the battery was low? Doesn't sound right. If the bike fell below 12v it won't run so maybe...but doesn't sound right.

I hope it fixed the issue.
Well, think about it, the fuel pump doesn't take much power, but the coils and rectifier take quite a bit of power to produce enough spark to fire the motor, and the low voltage in combination with all of the kill switches and stuff could cause not really what I would call flooding, but in a sense it is kind of like flooding because the cylinders get fuel like normal, but the spark is too weak to ignite.


Hey....that is my theory (and the only explanation I can think of that sounds good anyway)..
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I just hope this doesn't keep happening.
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If it does, I will have to upgrade my battery to a stronger one!!
 
That's very close to being correct!

Except for the rectifier, it only converts the ac to dc then provides the battery with the proper voltage. Once the fuel pump reaches desired pressure it turns off, so even when the bat has low voltage it will still crank, still have press in the fuel system, still have enough energy to fire the injectors but not enough to charge the coils to fire properly. So you are right buy fouling it out with low bat voltage.

It is not uncommon especially in the first generation of fuel injected suzuki's' that had charging issues. the 98 750

Also use the YTZ batteries, more amps at the same size!
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That's very close to being correct!

Except for the rectifier, it only converts the ac to dc then provides the battery with the proper voltage. Once the fuel pump reaches desired pressure it turns off, so even when the bat has low voltage it will still crank, still have press in the fuel system, still have enough energy to fire the injectors but not enough to charge the coils to fire properly. So you are right buy fouling it out with low bat voltage.

It is not uncommon especially in the first generation of fuel injected suzuki's' that had charging issues. the 98 750

Also use the YTZ batteries, more amps at the same size!
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Well, that makes me feel a little better now. Now I kinda feel like I almost know what I am talking about!! LOL!!
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