ok... so without reading ALLL the threads on blow off valves.. I have a 2011 Mitsubishi lancer Evo x MR,. I have also had quite a few other turbo'd cars... my last one being a complete home built project protege 5 dual boost. (supercharged and turbo'd ) with that being said I have been through a BUNCH of blow off valves... here are some things to consider..
#1 MONEY
#2 Boost
#3 Sound
#4 Kits
NAME BRAND DOES NOT MATTER... functionality does... when it comes to name brand.. I have been through TurboXS (turbonetics ) Tail, Synchronic, Greddy HKS, Forge, AND Mitsubishi stock.
#1. MONEY
Lets talk money… ask your self.. ( don’t have to answer here.. its none of no ones business but your own..) do you have the money to replace your motor if you blow it due to cheap parts made in china, or a part failure because it wasn’t properly installed.. i.e. cheap BOV and metals break off.. enter the motor and well there is damage after that, similar things with a cheap turbo blades breaking off and going into the motor. i.e. china turbo )
IF you cant afford the cost of a $400.00 blow off valve… you might not want to consider putting a turbo on your bike just yet.. You need to see if you can REALLY afford to do this. Building a boosted bike or just putting a turbo on a bike is expensive. Getting QUALITY parts is a pain at first but it is worth it in the long run. When applying something that is going to give the bike OR car more power then what it was intended for will decrease the longevity unless properly maintained. This is not to say that a boosted bike can’t last a long time because they can and do, IF properly maintained.
#2 Boosts
Boost is important because at 8psi on a gt25 is not going to be the same as 8psi on a gt30, never the less it is still a decent amount of pressure, and will give you lots of fun. When choosing a blow off valve.. IF it comes in a kit.. Like RCC turbo’s kit… it is covered under a warranty. Not partially.. but completely ( depending on what their warranty says) it is also recommended and tested.. with RCC for example has been dyno tested, dyno and track proven not just by RCC, but by the installers, and riders.
#3 Sound
Some people prefer HKS sound of a screaming pssshhhhhh sound.. ( see you tube turbo supra HKS blow off valve.. you will find LOTS.. )
Others prefer Greddy sounds, ( the sound can be changed on a greddy by changing the trumpet on the front between super loud, and not so loud the difference is the holes in the horn that allow more air to flow through it.. similar to a air blower that you hook up to a air compressor )
Again I prefer my Synaptic BOV, because of its quickness to react, however that is in a car and it matters there where as to on a bike it isn’t as much.. the onset of boost is A LOT different than in a car ( the feeling and the being on the throttle. i.e. in a car I can flat foot shift and not have to worry about raising the front end up from tq and boost.
#4 reputable seller
If you don’t listen to anything I have said above, ATLEAST listen to this part..
DON’T BUY KNOCK OFF PARTS, they are bad for the engine, can potentially be a ticking problem waiting to happen. Or worse it works great for a while and starts to slowly fail and you have to spend money again that you could have spent if you just went right the first time..
#4
Kits… Most Reputable sellers on the forums Like Frank @ power house, sell kits.. They’re backed with Warranty’s for a reason…
Good luck with boosting your bike. Feel free to contact me if you need help.
