Braided Brake Lines

Busasweety

Registered
Just bought Georgia and I some Stainless steel Brake lines for the fronts only...we only use rear brakes at a complete stop for holding the bike still.

any tips or suggestions on the install?? It wouldn't be for a little while as we have alot of work hitting us soon, but this will let my "mind" feed on it for awhile..

I am completely mechanically inclined, but the Busa maintance is a new chore to learn and I do not like "discovering" issues that I didn't think about...
thanks
 
Unless you have a pump bleeder, plan on it taking a bit of time squeezing the lever back and forth for a while. actually, I prefer this way.
Bleed the left caliper first. Unless you plan on cleaning the whole system out, use the DOT4 recommended juice. Do NOT overfill the resivor!
 
I was told to take existing lines off from top at resivior and then put new ones on....then disconnect existing from caliper and then connect new ones......doing a criss cross old to new,
does that sound or make sense ?? they were saying it wouldn't drip out or leak as much .
It was a day or to and now I feel a little stupid about it.
 
Did you get the 2 line kit or the stock over fender 1 and a jumper ? If you got the 2 line kit , the left one should be longer and has a 15* degree bend at left caliper. Vacuum pump saves a lot of time.
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Unless you have a pump bleeder, plan on it taking a bit of time squeezing the lever back and forth for a while. actually, I prefer this way.
Bleed the left caliper first. Unless you plan on cleaning the whole system out, use the DOT4 recommended juice. Do NOT overfill the resivor!
After doing SS lines and EBC HH pads with Diesel yesterday I heavily recommend the bleeder. BP, why do you prefer the manual squeeze method? Also by " don't overfill" do you mean "not to spill?" I was informed that DOT 4 will jack up your paint.
 
you will want "all" the brake fluid drained from the system... (extreme caution to keep fluid off bike and any paint work)

I would remove the cap from master cylinder

Attach a small piece of hose to the bleeders at the calipers (put other end of hose in a cup)

Open the bleeders and allow system to drain completely (well as far as it will)

Place a rag under fitting at master cylinder (in case of drips) and loosen banjo fitting (any remaining fluid should now drain down)

Remove banjo bolts at calipers and remove the lines (the plastic clamps on back of fender are a bit of a hassle)

Completely remove the old lines (double check no brake fluid is on anything)

Install new lines from top down (longer line goes on left caliper)

After lines are installed and routed..

Refill master cylinder and let it gravity bleed for 2 refills (may need a few half pumps to get going)

Close bleeders and slowly pump the brake lever a few times (fluid can squirt out if not careful) lever should firm up..

Re-open bleeders for a minute or 2 and watch for any bubbles. (Keep master full)

Again pump the lever.. repeat the above until the lever does not "pump up" or feel spongy..

You now have fresh fluid all through the system and no bubbles hopefully..
 
Mighty Vac from Harbor Freight is a good investment for the bikes.. Gravity bleeding works really pretty well (works great for fluid flush)

If there are any bubbles present, they need a little time to "rise" and repeatedly pumping the handle will only make things worse (foams the fluid, DOT5 is terrible for that)

Single pumps move the air without foaming it up and the line into the cup just provides some "back flow" protection.. Now if you want fancy... I could send you my pressure bleeder
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How much do they run....pressure bleeders ??
With the 2 busa's .....maintanence gets busy...
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JUST forund the vac on harbor frieght
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....will probably go this route..
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..does this change any of your awesome, helpfull instructions ??
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