Braided Lines Install

[Exdukenut]

Well I've done lots of braided line install on a variety of bikes over the years, but have never thrown a spanner at the Busa. So bleeding the lines is a no brainer for me.

So here is my dumb question.

When installing the lines on a Busa, to remove the OEM lines and install the new braided lines from StreetnTrack, (excellent service by the way), do I need to remove the fairings to get to any bolts that hold the OEM lines in place. I'd prefer not to, and if I have to what order of fairing removal would there be. Are they easy to get on and off?

My bike is in NZ as I've previously stated, and as such I can't even have a look to work it out for myself. I'll only have an evening in Auckland NZ, before we head off on our 12 day NZ trip.

Any heads up on the install would be much appreciated.

Tks in advance.

 

[jjbusa]

ive changed a few you dont have to but ive removed the black chin from under the nose it just makes it easy.

 

[Exdukenut]

Cool. Tks for that. Makes it easy then!

I really didn't want to have to remove much, if I could possibly get on without having to.

It does make it harder without the bike to look at!

 

[ranman]

for the front brake no need to remove the clutch and rear youll have to remove.
but always protect the paint from brake fluid.

 

[runeight]

the rear tail will have to be removed if doing the rear.

Go to walmart, baby section, and get one of these to remove old fluid.

When bleeding front do the left first then the right. On the rear there are two (2) bleed valves.

runeight...

 

[CAT3]

Any preference on fluid to replace with? I want to tackle mine this w/e as well. I have a might-vac to help with removal of old fluid and bleeding once installed. It'll probably make a nice difference with just the new fluid, but whatever.

Any tips on the clutch line? I bought the whole kit from S&T, just haven't had time to install.

 

[Exdukenut]

(runeight @ Nov. 06 2006,18:42) When bleeding front do the left first then the right.

runeight...

Wouldn't have thought that it would make any difference which one was done first with 2 separate lines coming from the master cylinder, as the kit I bought is the 2-2, not the one that comes down to one side then over the mudguard to the other caliper, which would work with that procedure.

Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Exdukenut]

Any DOT 4 brake fluid will be fine. Don't use DOT 4.1. Can't remember off the top of my head why though. I'll do a search and see what I can find.

 

[CAT3]

Exdukenut, I'm not sure the 2-2 bleeding process will matter, but as a good measure I'd still bleed the left one first, as its still the farthest from the M.cyl. I also have the 2-2 front, new rear w/ +6" and new clutch...yeah. What color cover and banjo's did you get? I ended up picking up Gold Banjo/CF Cover. Post up pics when your done please. I will be attempting to get shots throughout the process.

 

[Exdukenut]

Would have loved coloured ones of some description, but I needed them in a hurry, so I got "Plane Jane" silver finish, as that's all that was in stock. Also got just fronts, as personally I don't think the rear in braided line assists me much as I don't use the rear brake very at all. Just me, I guess, so the rear would be more bling than function.

As to the brake fluid, I think I should have said DOT 5, and not to use DOT 5.1, but DOT 4 will work, if that's all you can find. DOT 4 has a slightly lower boiling point, than DOT 5. If you go to the track often then use DOT 5.

Sorry for the confusion.