Braided Lines - Tips, Tricks and Gotchas

[Flows]

Hey folks, any tips and caveats for ABS, front, rear and clutch line replacements?

• Anything you think you would need to take off but can actually leave on?
• Anything you definitely should take off as it makes X, Y, Z 10 times easier?
• Anything that likes to break when you remove it?
• Anything you should always replace (while you are in there)?

That sort of thing.

Anyone have any photos or video of doing a complete line replacement on a Gen 3?

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

You know, brand new OEM brake lines should do a pretty good job for quite some time for a street ridden bike. Line flexing is all that’s prevented by using SS braided lines. I replaced the original lines on my old CBXs of course and I have them on my 06 Busa but I didn’t replace them the same year I bought the bike. Now, if I were to track the bike, sure. But then I’d use EBCs racing pads as well instead of their (perfectly good for street use) HH pads. SS lines are expensive and not (that) necessary for a brand new street ridden (only) bike. Jus sayin….

 

[Flows]

Copy that mate, first of three track days lined for the summer in 4 weeks. EBC over SBS? I'll be fitting radial billet M/Cs in April so might as well get this done now that they are ready and waiting. Anyway back to the OP. Tips, Tricks and Gotchas for the full line replacement job?

 

[sixpack577]

You will need to use the exit line bolts at the ABS unit as the bleeders, as there is no bleeder there.
Otherwise, you will not get out the air between the master cylinders and the ABS unit.
Put a rag over the wrench when you break each loose and retighten, and that will prevent any mess from brake flluid spraying out.
Also, you need a brake vacuum, as you will never gravity bleed them.
Bleed the calipers, the mc's, then the ABS unit, then back to the mc.
When done, ziptie the brake lever to the bar, and hang a weight from the brake pedal, to keep the brakes applied for several hours, overnight is ideal.
This will cause all the air that is still in there to move to the end of the lines/the bleeders.
Bleed each caliper and MC once more(you Will get a litle more air out) and call it done.
I have put ss lines on and bled them on the Gsxr1k R ABS, and no fancy tools are needed to activate the ABS module if you use it's line bolts as bleeders.
That is an old school trick for front master cylinders that didn't come with bleeders, and it works the same.

 

[Flows]

Nice summary on the bleeding 6. Assume we are both fairings, tank and seat off?

 

[sixpack577]

Nice summary on the bleeding 6. Assume we are both fairings, tank and seat off?

I'm not sure if the fairings Need to come off or not, but most likely it will make it easier.

 

[Cruising180]

You know, brand new OEM brake lines should do a pretty good job for quite some time for a street ridden bike. Line flexing is all that’s prevented by using SS braided lines. I replaced the original lines on my old CBXs of course and I have them on my 06 Busa but I didn’t replace them the same year I bought the bike. Now, if I were to track the bike, sure. But then I’d use EBCs racing pads as well instead of their (perfectly good for street use) HH pads. SS lines are expensive and not (that) necessary for a brand new street ridden (only) bike. Jus sayin….

Steel lines give you a much firmer lever and more finesse and feel when braking. Think of the difference between manual cars. A RWD car where the shifter is directly attached to the transmission and a FWD car where the shifter is attached via cables. The latter can feel pretty nice but there's no replacement for that direct feeling. Just my $0.02

 

[dcnblues]

I thought conventional wisdom was that it's not a worthwhile upgrade unless you are deleting the ABS.

 

[Berlin Germany]

Nice summary on the bleeding 6. Assume we are both fairings, tank and seat off?

given your apparently very limited experience with wrenching on motorcycles, I strongly advise you to travel longer distances, e.g. to @Kiwi Rider to bring him your busa - if I'm not mistaken, he worked in a Suzuki shop for a long time and should be able to help you, at least in preventing dangerous mistakes .

 

[shade]

I thought conventional wisdom was that it's not a worthwhile upgrade unless you are deleting the ABS.

Braided lines made a huge difference IMO

 

[Fernando]

Braided lines made a huge difference IMO

True.

 

[Flows]

Indeed, they have been a big feel bonus on everything I have fitted them to.
@Berlin Germany, respectfully, please stop trolling my experience in posts. Kiwi and I have talked about this last week. As previously mentioned your read is way, way off my good man. If you have done this job on a Gen 3 before and have some tips and tricks to contribute please do otherwise as we say in New Zealand 'taiho' brother.

 

[dcnblues]

Braided lines made a huge difference IMO

What I'm saying is that the hydraulic pressure going through the ABS box gets fiddled with in a way that dilutes the 'feel' benefits of paying for and installing those steel lines. I thought I had read that in more than one place on this forum since the Gen 3 came out.

 

[dcnblues]

I have with a ABM / LSL handle bar kit. Already the abs modes are half steel lines. No real change in feel. Change was felt with galfer rotors / new pads

I can't comment on the gen3 directly, but alot of ABS systems are overbearing, and take away feel.

But I can't find the comment I read that made me think the steel lines upgrade wasn't worth the cost. As in you won't feel the difference the way you would on a non-abs bike. These quotes are close to it though... And to be clear I don't have a dog in this fight, and I'm curious myself about the benefit.

 

[c10]

I deleted the ABS System on the Gen 2 . Gen 3 will not be easy due to its newer CAN BUS system . Gen 2 was a free standing ABS not connected to the ECU .

Feel was better with ABS Gone . The quote above was pre ABS delete I'm guessing

 

[sixpack577]

The ABS is better on the Gsxr than the Busa, and when the TC is off on the Gsxr, the brakes feel very good.
The Gsxr brake lever does feel more responsive with ss lines replacing the rubber ones too, especially on hot days.
It is the same lever feel improvement as a non ABS bike.

 

[SS4Luck]

Bypass the ABS pump and run lines right from the MCs to the caliper.

Boost by smith sells an abs delete if you want to go that far as well. Especially with upgraded masters.

 

[Flows]

OK, anyone taken the ABS module to rear brake master cylinder line out before? It is part rubber swaged to the hard line. Trying to figure out what is the least I can touch (remove) to weave the pre bent hard line trough the maze. The service manual, attached, simply says:

Rear Brake Hose
1) Drain the brake fluid.
2) Remove the fuel tank. ( It should really say remove motorcycle from rear brake hose )
3) Remove the rear brake hose.
4) Install the new brake hose.
5) Install the fuel tank.
6) Bleed air from the front brake system.

Anyone done this before without removing the engine and ABS module??
Scrap that. two bolts, two cable ties, two loom fasteners, two plugs + one tsp Houdini got is out cleanly.