brake bleeding woes - any thoughts?

[richbilt]

hi gang - i've just stripped my front calipers and replaced everything with new seals. All pistons were cleaned and plopped nicely back in to the calipers. no problems until i'm bleeding them. I know how to bleed brakes but it seems like i've got an air-lock in there somewhere. I've tried bleeding them about 6 times - even taken the bike for some rides to try and shake the remaining few bubbles to the top of the caliper - all to no avail! the brake lever will go back to the handlebar until it touches it and although the bike will stop ok they're obviously not right. The pistons all seem to move pretty freely - and i've tried tying the lever to the bars overnight a couple of times to try and get the last of the air out. I can't see anywhere air could be lurking since the bleed nipples are at the top of the calipers.

Has anyone else had this problem or anyone think of a possible remedy?

Rich

 

[clrwtrbusa]

Head to the local auto store and get a Mighty-vac pump, around 30 dollars. Its the answer for brake bleeding problems. Should take you about 45 minutes if you have 2 people to get the front ones completely done


http://www.tooldesk.com/products/productDetail.aspx+id+994

 

[richbilt]

ah right - i'll see if there's anything similar on sale over here in the UK. think i saw something in a catalogue somewhere round here... hmmm.... someone also mentioned that air bubbles can form just underneath the reservoir and you've gotta remove the reservoir from the handlebar to get rid. Anyone had to do that?

 

[BigBSBusa]

Head to the local auto store and get a Mighty-vac pump, around 30 dollars. Its the answer for brake bleeding problems. Should take you about 45 minutes if you have 2 people to get the front ones completely done


http://www.tooldesk.com/products/productDetail.aspx+id+994

+1

 

[clrwtrbusa]

ah right - i'll see if there's anything similar on sale over here in the UK. think i saw something in a catalogue somewhere round here... hmmm.... someone also mentioned that air bubbles can form just underneath the reservoir and you've gotta remove the reservoir from the handlebar to get rid. Anyone had to do that?

The vac will remove all of the air, even from the reservoir. If you cant find one over there, maybe we can work it out and I can ship ya one from here......

 

[shenoyp]

ah right - i'll see if there's anything similar on sale over here in the UK. think i saw something in a catalogue somewhere round here... hmmm.... someone also mentioned that air bubbles can form just underneath the reservoir and you've gotta remove the reservoir from the handlebar to get rid. Anyone had to do that?

..there is brake bleeding pump on http://www.redracingparts.com ...looked pretty useful to me!! You might wanna have a look at it.

 

[Glyn]

I picked up a vac from Sears, don't know if that helps. I also had a tiny bubble trapped in mine. I used the tied brakehandle trick, but it tok about 3 days for it to work itself out. I had strapped it and forgotten about it. When I went to go for a ride a few days later, I unstrapped it an lo and behold......nice firm brakes

You did bleed the master cylinder first, right?

 

[Big Red]

I have always heard the Busa's weakest point is it's brakes and specifically the front calipers. I know you can add stainless brake lines and bleed them properly but the bike seems to need a revamp. Any thoughts on aftermarket kits? What really concerned me was the comparison of stopping power between my very heavy Honda ST-1300 and the GSX-1300R. The Honda's brakes are awsome and stop very well. The GSX-1300R stops but has very little feel to it.

 

[jmaz268]

Yeah I had the same problem once upon a time but mine was with my clutch.

I will live and die by the easiness and simplicity of that tool. It truly works wonders

John

 

[GIXERHP]

The easist way to bleed the brakes is to, have the bike on a stand, first. Then if you remove the master cylinder's cover. Next step is to is to losen the banjo bolts at the calipers, and wait till you see fluid dripping at a steady pace, then close the banjo's bolts!!!! After you have completed that step, you should be able to bleed the rest of the air out normally. Also you might have a big air bubble at the master its self, the cure for that is to use the banjo bolt as a bleeder screw. So start by pumping the brake lever, hold it in, then open the masters banjo bolt you should hear some air come out, then close the bolt.... You might want to try the second part of my explaination first, depending on how soft your lever is now. I hope this might help you out! John

 

[djorgensen3]

Another method to try is if you use the vacuum pump, use it as a pressure device and push new fluid from the bottom up to the master cylinder. One person job that way and fairly clean.