Break-in

[OB_Hyper]

As of today my 13R has 1750 miles and appears to shift better as the milage increases. I broke the bike in per recommended procedures and then at the 1000 mile mark, I again changed filter and put in Castrol Syntec (full synthetic). The oil seems to perhaps make it shift a little smoother. As the test reports mentioned the bike has some major transmission gears and I can say it does not downshift as slick as my previous GSXR750. The 13R speedshifts up through the gears with the best of them though! My bike has not made any knocking noises yet, but I am concerned about the reports I have read on this message board, also does anyone know about the oil pick up location due to the fact that maybe wheelies are harmful to oil flow.

 

[OB_hiabuser]

hyper, first thing you need to do is GET RID OF THAT FULL SYNTHETIC OIL RIGHT NOW!!!!! the last thing you should do with a bike is put in full synthetic oil. this is much too slippery in bikes because the clutches run in the same oil. i recommend a synthetic blend such as silkolene or even castrol's syntec blend. this is acceptable. ask any knowledgable motorcycle mechanic and they will tell you the same.if you do not remove this full synthetic, you will see serious clutch slippage very soon, then you will need to replace the clutches. this is for real, i'm not a jerk just trying to upset you. i run silkolene in all my bikes and still won't put it in my bike till two thousand miles. good luck and i hope you listen to what i've suggested.
mike

 

[Guest]

hiabuser:You are wrong about the synthetic motorcycle oil messing up the clutches.I put brand new Suzuki clutches in my GSXR 750(that I race),and I put full synthetic oil in right away,and the clutches are fine,and don't slip.He will NOT do damage to the clutches if HYPER runs synthetic oil.If a motorcycle mechanic tells you it will than he needs to go back to MMI school.HYPER: don't worry about the oil,because synthetic is the way to go(as long as it is Synthetic Motorcycle Oil).

 

[OB_hiabuser]

steve y, you are right, IF it's MOTORCYCLE specific oil. if i'm not mistaken, he's using castrol syntec synthetic, also, you will notice that MOST motorcycle specific motor oil IS semi-synthetic. a blend. that's the way to go. just giving my advice from experience. hyper, you do what you think is best for your bike. i do agree that synthetic blend is the best thing in the world for your bike, once again from experience, 40 k miles on my 91 gixer with silkolene semi synthetic and tore the motor down to check it out, looked like brand new. but had problems with PURE synthetic. check into it. irregardless, you should wait til about 2000 miles before using either so that the rings will seat properly and permanently before you switch. this stuff is so slick, and modern petroleum oils are so slick that it takes a little longer for good seating of the rings. keep this in mind.
mike
p.s. countless drag strip trips during that 40k miles and only used two clutches, factory and second factory clutches. the second was still good when i took the motor apart. the only exception was when i put in a barnett clutch and springs with PURE SYNTHETIC oil. clutch lasted less than a thousand miles.

 

[OB_hiabuser]

thanks yzf. shoulda been more clear on that one. your right. but if i'm not mistaken, the straight synthetic castrol oil has friction modifiers in it. have a good one.
mike

 

[OB_YZFR1]

What you want to watch out for are certain car synthetic oils that contain a class of additives termed "friction modifyers". Friction modifyers are great in an engine but really bad on clutch plates. Royal Purple synthetic is an example of a synthetic oil that contains friction modifyers. I've been using Mobil One car oil in my bikes for years. No Mobil oil contain any friction modifyers.