brocks brick or lead weights?

Here is what I do. Turn your pre-load adjusters all the way in. This forces the fork spring to coil creating denser weight lower in the fork tube. Strap the front end hard. Full coolant over flow as high as it will alow. Add three gals of fuel or less depends on the wheelies along with a totally flat, horizontal to the ground swing-arm and start with 20lbs in the rear tire for your first few passes then less.. The horizontal swingarm does two things, it takes the up hill pull off the front sprocket and secondly gives you a little more control over the chassis. Take all the compression out of your rear shock and add enough re-bound so after compressing the tail rises up slowly, not bouncey, more power the faster it should move. Still learning...also get your center of gravity to the deck as close as rules allow.

greg
 
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A buddy of mine had a solid front axle machined from Tungsten. He had to have it peened and tempered to reduce the brittleness but it worked. Tons heavier than lead. Well really it's more than 1.5 times as heavier than lead.

There are a few other places you can add weight that's a big benefit and little or almost impossible to see. ;) PM if you want any details.
 
How much do you want to add...?

There is only so much weight you can put in the axle. The brick is going to give you a lot more weight for the area available... ;)
 
Going from 58.5” to a 61” wheelbase GREATLY reduced my need for any additional weight (even though I added more power. The brick is not on mine right now but the axel is. I’m going back to stock wheelbase pretty soon and the brick is going back on for sure.
 
im stock wheel base. i run 9.48 with a pipe and lowered. just added a air shifter and wanting to get some weight up there. any one know where any write ups are on doing the lead.
 
Doing the lead in the axle? Just find a buddy that casts his own fishing weights, plug one end. When all is done and cool, I pinned mine. Do it in a well ventilated area, that stuff will kill you.
 
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