Bst Carbon Fiber Wheels For Gen Ii

Skywalker

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I'd like to know what the difference is from the 3.5 x 17 w/ABS from the #166487 with no R in description and R's and I see some that are R+. Looks like same description. R = Race? R+? Anyone know?

#166487 correct year with ABS w/no "R" Designator at $1460.00 for Front
#166500 correct year with ABS w/an "R" Designator at $1795.00 for Front
#166513 correct year with ABS w/no "R" Designator at $1935.00 for Rear
#167397 correct year with ABS w/an "R" Designator at $2260.00 for Rear

must be "R" = Race and + I'm guessing is size or wider and 18's? However, the "R's" are little more heavy! No "R" designator is lighter? I'm confused. I would think if "R" means race? it would be lighter.

I'm not going to race anything more then likely but want to know what it is I'm buying and what I'm paying for when and if I buy these. Also, great to generate the thread to see all the positive info that should come from this.

Ceramic WorldWide will be applied to each when and if I buy.

http://www.brocksperformance.com/Hayabusa+C120.aspx
 
http://www.brocksperformance.com/Default.aspx?ItemID=189802

RBX2_Front_Sym_Standard_Product.jpg
 
On there way! Friday or Saturday via UPS to my door. The "R" designator actually was reinforced and the R+ means the same thing according to my supplier. But, here you go and can't wait to get a new set of Michelin EVO's as suggested by Mr. Johnny Cheese and I think he's like E.F. Hutton! Ha Don't mind my since of humor guys... hopefully someone has a NOMAR machine to accomplish this damage free.. maybe I can zip tie em


BST 5 Spoke Slant w Vortex.JPG
 
I can chime in here from personal experience. I have a gen 1 busa and I've done the R1 wheel mod. They are significantly lighter than Busa stock rims. I have since replaced my R1 wheels with a set of BST carbon fiber rims. I've held both the R1 rims in my hands and the BST's.....

There is a noticeable difference in weight. How much weight I can't say? I never weighed them on a calibrated scale and took pictures etc. etc. I just know from holding each set of rims in my hands within a short span of time I could discern a weight difference. I know after installing them in my busa I could feel a difference as well. Not gonna tell you it's an overwhelming night and day difference but I've had this bike for quite some time and racked up a decent amount of miles riding and I could tell a difference immediately.
 
hopefully someone has a NOMAR machine to accomplish this damage free.. maybe I can zip tie em

When I wanted to get my tires installed I took them to a Ducati/BMW dealership. A lot of them models come with high priced fancy magnesium rims so they have the right tools and people to do it with out jacking it up. I made it a point to ask for the shop manager and we both went over my rims and he confirmed that they were blemish free. He guaranteed me that they would be returned in the same condition.....
 
When I wanted to get my tires installed I took them to a Ducati/BMW dealership. A lot of them models come with high priced fancy magnesium rims so they have the right tools and people to do it with out jacking it up. I made it a point to ask for the shop manager and we both went over my rims and he confirmed that they were blemish free. He guaranteed me that they would be returned in the same condition.....
Great post 1Busa. I'll be all over this and makes perfect since.
 
I wrote this on another forum a few years ago and have been told it helped some understand that when it comes to carbon wheels it's not just about weight. Hope it helps...

1 wheel peel said:
............ it goes beyond unsprung weight or even the weight of the wheel. When it comes to wheels it's all about Moment of Inertia unless you are just shopping for looks/bling.

What is Moment of Inertia? "Moment of inertia," or MOI, is a property of physics that indicates the relative difference in how easy or difficult it will be to set any object in motion about a defined axis of rotation (the axel for us). The higher the MOI of an object, the more force will have to be applied to set that object in a rotational motion (ie needs more hp/tq or input at the HB). Conversely, the lower the MOI, the less force needed to make the object rotate about an axis. Total weight is not the only factor in determining MOI.

Think of a spinning ice skater. At the beginning of the spin, the skater extends her arms and the rotation speed is slow. As the skater pulls her arms in closer to her body, the speed of the spin greatly increases (she didn't suddenly lose weight). When the arms are extended, the skater's Moment of Inertia is very high, and the result is a slower spin because the high MOI of the skater is resisting the speed of rotation. Conversely, the reason the spin speed increases when the skater pulls in her arms is that as the arms get closer to her body, the skater's MOI falls lower and lower, creating less resistance to the rotation. The same occurs when comparing carbon wheels to cast or forged wheels. The vast majority of what weight does exist does so in the form of the hub and bearings. The actual spokes and rim/lip weighs next to nothing.

More reading here if you like.
http://www.blackstonetek.com/inertia.html

http://www.sportrider.com/sportbike...0402_motorcycle_wheel_comparison/viewall.html

Oh and you can bloody well bet I drank the koolaid. :geek: :laugh: :D
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I wrote this on another forum a few years ago and have been told it helped some understand that when it comes to carbon wheels it's not just about weight. Hope it helps...
Great write-up. Love the picture as well and should be me this Friday! I'm doing this for the fact that these are absolutely beautiful wheels. I want my bike to be amazing and these sure will help.
 
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