Burn # 4 Piston

[Tonydb_dd@yahoo.com]

i got 2006 Hayabusa turbo Dyno 374 BWHP had it tune. Took it to the track 4 past and burnt # 4 piston and Block and talk to the dyno person and ask if it was running lean he said check for air leak. rebuild motor put Wossner Turbo Piston put all new line on made 6 pass at the track burn # 4 piston and cyclinder block, any suggestion about burning # 4 Piston. running 117-120 octane @ 17 lb boost.

 

[lil charlie]

Powerhouse Motorcycles NY : Full Service Sport Bike Dynojet Tuning Specialists

Ask for Frank.......

 

[Tonydb_dd@yahoo.com]

OK, Thanks

 

[lil charlie]

Dont forget to tell him you are a member of the org. He is one of our sponsers.

 

[GIXERHP]

Is the bike tuned for the octane of fuel you are running?

 

[SKnight]

You may want to find a new dyno guy. An air leak under boost causes a rich condition not lean. I'd start with your injectors, have them flow benched and make sure that they're flowing the same and make sure that they're all within electrical spec at running temperature. If they pass then make sure that electrically everything's fine in the harness and computer.

 

[GoldenChild]

check your injectors..

 

[dadofthree]

I have to agree with checking injectors, especially #4, but I don't know anything

 

[The Big Red One]

You may want to find a new dyno guy. An air leak under boost causes a rich condition not lean. I'd start with your injectors, have them flow benched and make sure that they're flowing the same and make sure that they're all within electrical spec at running temperature. If they pass then make sure that electrically everything's fine in the harness and computer.

I agree, you're dyno guy is costing you a fortune (you're making him rich bigtime tho lol). He should have had you covered
Good turbo tuners are few and far between. Alot of folks experience what you've been through. I got a decent base map with my kit and am just patiently fine tuning my turbo bike with an AFR data logger. 2 years and still running great....and looking forward to many more
BTW an AFR gauge is a MUST....data logging capabilities even better. Fuel pressure and boost gauges are also a must imo

 

[tcbusa]

hard cut or soft cut rev limiter?

 

[GoldenChild]

hard cut or soft cut rev limiter?

should be on #3 cylinder

who tuned it?

 

[card16969]

i agree check injectors and check your fuel pressure regulator and make sure its not overflowing your injectors

 

[Boosted Cycle Perf]

Can't blame it on the dyno guy fully. As long as the afr is correct, and he did not exceed the duty cycle of the injectors, or hold it in to the rev limiter anything else is up for grabs. If afr was lean, or duty cycle is high, you would see damage on at least 2 or more cylinders. If it was because of going in to the rev limiter, 1 and 4 would be burnt. That could be cause by 2 things. A soft cut limiter, or the limiter on the secondaries (if it has them) was not set correctly. This all more likely to be the builders fault.

But since it's been #4 both times, I'd put my money on a bad/clogged injector.

 

[Tonydb_dd@yahoo.com]

Tuner is highly recommend he help me when I had tuned issue. He remap the bike on short notice. I had the injector flow test show good @ 50 lb 557 cc. He a super guy on turbo.

 

[Tonydb_dd@yahoo.com]

I want to thank all for the support

 

[SKnight]

Cylinders go lean for a few reasons, lack of fuel (Bad injector, low pressure, low electrical command either from programming or from an issue such as high resistance.) or an air imbalance. Depending on how the air box is designed one cylinder could be getting far more air than the others. Intake port design, injector angle, etc all play a role as well but at the 374HP level odds are that's still stock, maybe ported. Something else, during the reassembly did they check the valve springs? If you have a lazy intake valve spring on 4 under boost the valve could be getting held open causing more air to rush in before it closes. Basically the valve doesn't follow the cam lobe, the boost pressure holds it open longer forcing more air in, once the piston starts coming up the pressure balances and the valve closes. Are you running stock springs? If so that's exactly where I'm going to look. Factory springs have enough open pressure to handle the valve's weight but not the valves weight with 17PSI pushing on it.

On to the next round of questions, along the way did you do plug checks? How do the plug checks look? If everything's balanced then all the plugs will look the same. Lets start there and see what you've got going on.

 

[busa2001]

Yes, you have some fueling issues on cylinder #4, that need to be corrected, also have your tuner unify the ignition/fuel maps and remove the soft cut and run hard cut only...

 

[The Big Red One]

Cylinders go lean for a few reasons, lack of fuel (Bad injector, low pressure, low electrical command either from programming or from an issue such as high resistance.) or an air imbalance. Depending on how the air box is designed one cylinder could be getting far more air than the others. Intake port design, injector angle, etc all play a role as well but at the 374HP level odds are that's still stock, maybe ported. Something else, during the reassembly did they check the valve springs? If you have a lazy intake valve spring on 4 under boost the valve could be getting held open causing more air to rush in before it closes. Basically the valve doesn't follow the cam lobe, the boost pressure holds it open longer forcing more air in, once the piston starts coming up the pressure balances and the valve closes. Are you running stock springs? If so that's exactly where I'm going to look. Factory springs have enough open pressure to handle the valve's weight but not the valves weight with 17PSI pushing on it.

On to the next round of questions, along the way did you do plug checks? How do the plug checks look? If everything's balanced then all the plugs will look the same. Lets start there and see what you've got going on.

Yes, you have some fueling issues on cylinder #4, that need to be corrected, also have your tuner unify the ignition/fuel maps and remove the soft cut and run hard cut only...

Can't blame it on the dyno guy fully. As long as the afr is correct, and he did not exceed the duty cycle of the injectors, or hold it in to the rev limiter anything else is up for grabs. If afr was lean, or duty cycle is high, you would see damage on at least 2 or more cylinders. If it was because of going in to the rev limiter, 1 and 4 would be burnt. That could be cause by 2 things. A soft cut limiter, or the limiter on the secondaries (if it has them) was not set correctly. This all more likely to be the builders fault.

But since it's been #4 both times, I'd put my money on a bad/clogged injector.

Thats all crucial and very good info, and a good engine builder/turbo tuner should have all that already covered. There's alot more to setting up a turbo bike than just tuning its AFR. I educated myself pretty well with lots of reading before I installed my turbo kit and started riding. I talked to my local "turbo tuner" and found out I knew way more than he did .....letting him install and tune my turbo set-up would have been a nightmare......and ended very badly, probably in small claims court.
Its aggravating how few good tuners there are, and how many will bite off more than they can chew, just to send a bike out half-azzed to get your money uke:

 

[megawatt]

Anytime something goes wrong and you melt parts the first thing to do is find out why? Not the best course of action to replace the bad parts and go do it again.

 

[fallenarch]

Is it a white turbo busa by any chance?

Those things are a problem. I say just paint it silver, should fix you right up.