Burn smell after turning engine off

groran1000

groran1000

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Since I got the bike new, I've been smelling a slight oil burn smell after turning the engine off after getting gas and after parking it. Doesn't smell for long. Kind of like oil on exhaust smell. The bike has 400 miles, so any bike build oil residue from the factory should be burned off by now you would think. Anybody else smelling anything? I'm bringing it for 1st service tomorrow and told them about it and they will check on it.
 
Could be the crank case breather venting when you shut if off....?? Do you happen to see any wisps of smoke anywhere?

Kind of adds to the new bike smell....oddly enough, I still get that smell on my old '09 and love that smell....
 
My 2017 came to me second hand with 300 miles on it. It still smelled for a while of Cosmoline. It is distinct from a typical oil smell. My tech identified it, what would I know. It is a wax oil combo developed by the military. They spray it on certain items, probably the block. Thus it can sit forever new in a warehouse but never rust until it is burned off. But I smelled it while riding until it was eventually gone, not like yours where it is a brief after-smell. I am unsure how long it lasted.
 
I smelled it during the heat cycles, and then after break in.

I don't really pay too much attention. It will dissipate after a while. I do use that as an excuse to eyeball all the normal culprits to validate that I don't have a leak. When I build motors, and then fire them, I always get some leftover burn off, and stinky.

It goes away, but I still pay attention and look for leaks of any sort. I just like to know.

PS The 2022 was a bit of smelly break in.
 
Hayabusa Wannabe said:
My 2017 came to me second hand with 300 miles on it. It still smelled for a while of Cosmoline. It is distinct from a typical oil smell. My tech identified it, what would I know. It is a wax oil combo developed by the military. They spray it on certain items, probably the block. Thus it can sit forever new in a warehouse but never rust until it is burned off. But I smelled it while riding until it was eventually gone, not like yours where it is a brief after-smell. I am unsure how long it lasted.
Click to expand...
mmmmmmmm Cosmoline.........the older military rifles used to come with that, it was a PITA to clean...the new ones don't use it.

I found a few brand spanking new Russian weapons on missions which still had Cosmoline and wrapped in oil paper....didn't get to keep any though dang it...!
 
If it doesn't go away check the valve cover gasket along the front over the manifold when the engine is cold. Any oil, it just needs a new gasket. Check torque on valve cover bolts. If it started leaking it probably will continue until you change the gasket. Your oil level will probably drop after a thousand miles or so if you have a leak. If not, you don't have a leak.
 
Mythos said:
If it doesn't go away check the valve cover gasket along the front over the manifold when the engine is cold. Any oil, it just needs a new gasket. Check torque on valve cover bolts. If it started leaking it probably will continue until you change the gasket. Your oil level will probably drop after a thousand miles or so if you have a leak. If not, you don't have a leak.
Click to expand...
...on a brand new bike? I'd be some pissed if I had such a leak on a brand new bike....
 
Bumblebee said:
...on a brand new bike? I'd be some pissed if I had such a leak on a brand new bike....
Click to expand...
Yes, me too. Even so, I would pay the $60 or whatever for a new gasket and fix it myself if I determined that was the problem. If it would be a leak and it wasn't too awfully bad, just torquing the valve cover bolts to spec would probably slow it down enough to wait until the first valve lash check. The gasket could be replaced then as it should. OK, this is not busa specific info again but my other bike which is similar to a busa but not a busa had this exact problem starting at about 3000 miles. All of the valve cover bolts were very loose. I put washers under the bolts and torqued them in sequence to spec and it slowed the leak down. I was loosing close to a quart every 2500 miles, often adding between changes. The oil burned off when I rode the bike which was not very pleasant to smell on longer journeys. It would leak down the pipe and LH side of the motor while the bike was in storage but I never saw a drop on the floor. After I did my first valve lash check, I replaced the gasket (to an updated OEM gasket) and no more leak. Again, this info pertains to a bike other than a Hayabusa but it might be worth taking a wrench and just feeling how tight the valve cover bolts are. Also run a finger along the front of the valve cover lip across the front and on the LH side where oil pools when the bike is on its side stand. I never had this problem with my Hayabusa and I don't think I ever checked the valve cover bolts either but who knows, it sounds familiar so I thought I'd share my experience even though it was with a different kind of bike.
 
Dealership says they looked over the bike twice and can't find any leaks or problems. They can't smell the burnt smell I smell neither. I smell it every time I get gas and when I'm parking it. I smelled it at a red light the other day while running. So, I don't know what to think. I never smelled that on my other 3 busa's.
 
Could be the smell of the catalytic converter's getting hot. It's a different kind of smell.
 
Picked up the bike today. The first thing I noticed was the clutch was grabby. It was silky smooth before. I stopped and got gas and I didn't smell it there or when I got home. You know, when they don't find anything wrong, but the smell or symptom is gone, I have to wonder and ask myself about that! They know we are going to post on the forum, they told me they read it every day when I bought the bike.
 
My guess is they adjusted the thickness of the clutch pack. A clutch will make a smell if it is not "grabby" enough and it slips so much it burns. I would think you would have to slip the clutch pretty hard to notice a smell. Drag racers slip the clutch hard all the time. Of course, that's why they need to change clutch plates so often. If you were slipping your clutch, you probably were only doing that to start rolling or maneuver at low speed. I guess you could slip the clutch at speed when you shift but there would be no reason to do that unless you liked the sound of it. If your clutch pack was not thick enough, it would slip all the time but you would probably have noticed that if the slipping was severe enough to cause a smell. If you ever nailed the throttle and heard the engine race as though you were feathering the clutch lever a bit, that would be a slipping clutch.

The only other thing I can think of is that you might have had some air in your clutch hydraulic system. That would have made the clutch lever feel softer, probably would have increased the lever travel before the clutch was fully disengaged and also might have let the clutch slip rather than be fully disengaged. In that case, the dealership might have bled the air out making the clutch seem touchy by comparison.

If the clutch feel is definitely different now, they did something. The question is, "did they make it the way it was supposed to be or did they adjust it improperly?" You should be able to slip the clutch now if you want to. The clutch shouldn't be so touchy that you have difficulty controlling it. That could actually cause a disaster if you want to take off fast.
 
mine is the same, 12 miles on it and it smels like crankcase fumes, obviously normal on these bikes. if its not leaking any or burning it, im not bothered.
 
It's that new car smell but for a bike! My new Busa does the same thing so far but I'm not to worried about it and I'm sure it will go away after a while.
 
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