Buying used Busa...

[BangkokBusa]

Hi Gentlemen,

I am looking at a 2000 Hayabusa with 6k miles on it, owned previously by two older guys. It looks super clean. Never ridden it myself. Would you all say is a compression check is in order? I was told that 99% of inspections are just superficial. Any comments regarding what level of inspection I should get? I was quoted $50 for the quick inspection (With test ride) or $150-200 for a in-depth inspection.

Thanks if you can help me,

Kurt

 

[busa_bill]

(BangkokBusa @ Jun. 25 2007,09:00) Hi Gentlemen,

I am looking at a 2000 Hayabusa with 6k miles on it, owned previously by two older guys.  It looks super clean.  Never ridden it myself.  Would you all say is a compression check is in order? I was told that 99% of inspections are just superficial.  Any comments regarding what level of inspection I should get? I was quoted $50 for the quick inspection (With test ride) or $150-200 for a in-depth inspection.

Thanks if you can help me,

Kurt

Perform compression test with right wrist.

 

[Nekosohana]

lol, compression test.

OK, here is my .02.

I think that an inspection is critical on a 7 (going on 8) year old machine. However, if you were smart (and I think you are since you are here

), then you would have them quantify what "in-depth" is. Preferrably written.

Will they do a valve check? Will they open it up and test the battery? What will they (and won't they) do.

This will also depend on your personal skill level. The reality is that after you ride it for the next 5 years, you will know more about the bike than you did when you started. And that will pass on to the next bike. If you have already owned a bike before, and you are insistent on not getting a quality inspection of the machine, then you need to ride it yourself. Similar to health issues, no one can quantify for you what is important. I had a distinctive knock in my Bandit that I couldn't get out. The dealer couldn't hear it at all.

So get the in depth, get them to guarnatee the parts if you can for a short period (3 months or something - if they will even do it) and then get them to write it down.

 

[rubber2burn]

The indepth inspection is to high priced you might want to call around to other dealers and see what they charge. The dealer ship I work at only charges $80 and they go over the bike with a fine tooth comb.

 

[rubber2burn]

Like Nekosohana said they should check the valves, Plugs, Compression test the Bike, Look at all cables, check the tires, chain, & sprokets, check fluid levels, Preform a coolant check to ensure it is ok,  and check the Battery Heath as well as other things.

 

[BangkokBusa]

Neko and Adam. You guys rock

Thanks so much for the input...

I'll be sure to order the "deep" inspection and let you know how it goes!!! I did find that the canchain upgrade was done, but who knows about the subframe

Regards,

Curt

 

[ks-waterbug]

Do the check yourself, below is a list of things to look at; but first let me say IF your gut feeling ever gives you a check Walk from the deal….
First call Suzuki and make sure all the recalls were accomplished to your VIN# Bike. Then...
1. Obvious defects to the cosmetic make-up or overall appearance of bike. Things to consider.. Cracks, leaks, discoloration, etc…
2. How does the Brake fluid look? Should be a nice golden opaque color, not black or dark. How does the Engine oil look? Does it smell burnt? Are there obvious metal shavings or a milky color to the appearance? What about the radiator over flow. Is it to the line with fluid? Has the fluid been changed in the last two years?
3. Tires- look at the tires for signs of abuse; look at the tires for a tale-tale history of the owners riding style. (Shinko usually a racer; Dunlop BT056 and the likes are factory spec tires; some of the other performance brands are Michelin Pilot Powers, Pirelli, Metzler, Etc…)
4. Brakes- Are the rotors grooved? Warped or worn? How do the brake pads look? What do the brake lines look like? Are there any obvious leaks. Remember to check both the rear and front master cylinders…
5. Check all the gauges for functionality
6. Check the VIN#’s on the engine and the frame do they match the title? Is your title clean? No salvage, theft recovery, or flood…
7. Check the front forks for signs of leaks… They should be nice and clean with no obvious signs of damage. No visible excess oil on the fork tubes. The bike should track nice and straight when/if you drive it.
8. Take the bike out for a ride, bringing it up to temperature. Does it overheat? Is the shifting smooth and deliberate? Does the clutch engage smoothly? Pay attention to second gear, it should remain in gear and not Bang into any of the gears….  No obvious mechanical sounds out of the ordinary should originate from the bikes engine. Be patient and take your time…
9. Chain should be clean and free of gunk. Is the master link still attached from the factory? Usually blue in color and riveted in place. NO master clips should be present, only rivet style chain.. Also are the sprockets worn and rounded? Is the chain adjuster at its max setting? All signs that a replacement is just around the corner…
10. Take a look around the owners garage or place the bike is kept… This is a really big step in knowing just how well maintained the bike was. Is the owners home clean and organized…

 

[BangkokBusa]

KS- Fantastic. I owe you! That will help tremendously!

I have copied it and will use it as my main reference! Will keep you posted on what transpires..

Best Regards,

Kurt

 

[GSXcite]

Kurt, is the bike near you or is it some distance away? If you let us know where it is perhaps an org member would go over and take a look at it for you. I know I would if it was near me in Kansas City.

 

[bigoltool]

Also if you take it to a dealer have em look at all the bearings too! Wheel's, Steering head, swingarm etc. Easy stuff to check.

I personally keep a very detailed maintenance log of everything I do to my bike by date and mileage. Might be worth asking for , you never know?