Can’t I just add a few chain links if I stretch the rear?

Gen3lover

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I’m planning on stretching the rear 4 inches on a 2022 Gen 3.

Stupid question - why do I need to replace the entire chain instead of just adding enough links to make it fit?
This is assuming I can get the links that exactly match the existing chain.

The current chain is perfectly fine, I don’t track the bike or ride too hard.

Thoughts?
 
"Da" or Yes. Must be exact same type of chain.

Change sprocket, stretch, adjust or change links. We do it all the time. I have a large selection of chain types. I wish I had kept that stock chain that I just took off. I could've sent you the whole thing. My apologies.

Learning to change links, whether you're installing a master link, or changing the length of the chain is an exacting kind of a technique. Learn how to do it well your way.
 
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Extending an existing chain means 2 master links does it not?
Some people think that practice is a bad idea.
 
That’s what I was thinking, another master link is another place where a failure can occur.
But is that a real worry if I’m not drag racing or otherwise beating the crap out of the bike?
Don’t get me wrong, I want to do it the right way but throwing away a perfectly good chain feels like a waste if all I need is to make it a little longer.
What am I missing?
 
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Yes, you'll need two master links and a section of Factory chain from someone around here that's got one laying around. Lotta guys trade out their chains right away. We have a bad habit of stretching the Factory one. I think it's good to start with the Factory chain because once you have the technique down, you'll be good to go with performance chains.

Don't get caught up in the failure expectation. I've never broken a master link. It's always some other link. Although if you maintenance your chain, every 500 miles, clean, and grease they literally last a very long time. Keep an eye on your sprocket teeth. I used to break dirt bike chain links, but never a Hayabusa link.

Get yourself a decent chain break rivet tool kit for 530 chain. Watch some YouTube videos and ask lots of questions.

Some new chains have spacer plates for the master link so you don't go too far. They're a nice learning tool. You can measure the pin width on the Factory chain and figure out roughly where that side plate needs to be pressed in. If I've got 3 mm sticking out, I've got enough to rivet. You just don't want to crush the O-rings and you don't want to bind the master link when you install it. If it rotates freely up and down against the links next to it you got a winner.

You get grease packs with your master links. I always make it a point to clean out and adequately grease the receiving bore, and I grease the pin too so there's plenty of grease between the bore and the pin for longevity. I also soup up the O-rings so everything is properly lubricated.

Watch the videos and take your time. Plus if you're putting a longer chain on for stretch purposes, try and put in enough links in the chain so that you're slightly forward, not behind the halfway mark in the adjustments slot. You're gonna stretch and you're gonna want to tighten it up.

Same amount of work whether you're installing a new chain, or adding on links to the existing chain. After a while you'll have it down just like brushing your teeth.
 
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Go slow when pressing the new link on.
You will feel the press getting tight, almost like tightening up a bolt, and know that you don't want to force it.
You'll need calipers to measure how far the pin head has been compressed and spread.
If you split the pin head, it's no good, and you'll have to redo it.
Different chain makers all have different pin head diameters, but they are all within about .015" of each other, so just measure the stock pins, and try to get within .005" of that diameter.
If you cannot, and the pin press feels as if it has bottomed, do not force it, or you risk splitting it.
I would also slide the axle forward in the swingarm, rivot one end of your extension on to the chain, put the chain on, and that should help you get a better idea of how many links that you will need to remove, as you cannot remove one link, it will be a 2 link minimum.
The picture is for reference, the diameter on the pins on your chain could be around .010" bigger or smaller, so long as you get it close to what you have, within .005"

Screenshot_20240729-080711_Gallery.jpg
 
I remember the days of yesteryear when chains used to come with a circlip master link...people I know used them for years and years with zero issues at all. I knew a guy that rode a built ZX11 that used one.....he was a wheelie junkie too.....

I myself used them in a couple of my bikes but generally used the rivet style.
 
I remember the days of yesteryear when chains used to come with a circlip master link...people I know used them for years and years with zero issues at all. I knew a guy that rode a built ZX11 that used one.....he was a wheelie junkie too.....

I myself used them in a couple of my bikes but generally used the rivet style.

I have seen the clip type come off and bust cases.
A brand new one, correctly installed also flew off my friend's 636, in front of me around 100mph...it shot right past my left foot like a broom handle...it took me a moment to realize what just happened...and I was thankful my foot was still there, lol.
Rivot style only for me.
 
I have seen the clip type come off and bust cases.
A brand new one, correctly installed also flew off my friend's 636, in front of me around 100mph...it shot right past my left foot like a broom handle...it took me a moment to realize what just happened...and I was thankful my foot was still there, lol.
Rivot style only for me.
Rivets are all I use now and have since the '80s...

But in all the years and miles I have ridden, I have yet to see one come off...luckily for me.....and the rider of the bike....
 
I think circlips are ok for bicycles and years ago for motos when the engines were only producing 30 HP. But now, forget it. Gotta be rivets.
 
I think circlips are ok for bicycles and years ago for motos when the engines were only producing 30 HP. But now, forget it. Gotta be rivets.
I think that built ZX11 was running quite a bit more than 30 hp....but all the race bikes and factory chains of the day used rivets..so using them makes sense.
 
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