Can I run an inline electric water pump with stock water pump?

[twvette]

My UTV (Polaris RZR) with Haybusa engine is boiling over and overheating when stopping but does just fine when riding (just a hair above centerline). I am well aware of getting the air out, have a low temp fan switch, run a strong SPAL fan. Am switching to 2x bigger radiator which is already bigger than the busa radiator(but perhaps not as effecient, etc.), and going to properly convert to Evans waterless coolant to deal with this problem.

Even with the above, I am still floating around the idea of installing an electric water pump while I have everything opened up and drained. Even though I have much longer plumbing runs to the radiator in front of UTV back to engine in rear I think the stock water pump is doing ok since temps ok when running it hard. or, am i being fooled and the long runs are of significant concern?

Can I just install an electric inline water pump and only turn it on after I shutdown the motor? In other words, with these electric motors still flow and no act as a restriction to the stock pump when it is working but the electric pump is not powered on? Any ideas for wiring/logic that would automatically turn on this pump for X amount of seconds after the ignition switch is turned off so it is an automatic feature?

Could I run both the stock and inline electric at the same time? Or, will this vapor lock one or the other since the electric likely moves fluid much faster? Just curious as seems like a waste but then again maybe neat feature to just turn on when I idle it down after a hard run for increased flow in theory ...

Or, am i just asking for trouble trying to run both in any method and really need to run only the electric pump? How exactly (details appreciated) do I block off or modify the stock pump so that it does not interfere with the electric pump?

 

[twvette]

Nobody?

 

[Twobrothersbusa]

You are asking opinions on which not many will have experience to offer. From a mechanical standpoint I have opinions, but no BUSA experience to share.

The mechanic in me doesn't think running a mechanical and electrical water pump in series would ever work. I would think you could never get flow and restriction balanced between the pumps. The long runs on the coolant could be an issue but not sure. I can say that on my RV that has a Ford Chassis; it has a 20 ft run each way to the RV water heater that uses the engine coolant to heat it going down the road. They use the stock standard water pump. Not sure how the busa pump would compare, but it is one point of reference.

Maybe you'll get some more, but like I said that is pretty unique setup you have. Would love to see pics.

My UTV (Polaris RZR) with Haybusa engine is boiling over and overheating when stopping but does just fine when riding (just a hair above centerline). I am well aware of getting the air out, have a low temp fan switch, run a strong SPAL fan. Am switching to 2x bigger radiator which is already bigger than the busa radiator(but perhaps not as effecient, etc.), and going to properly convert to Evans waterless coolant to deal with this problem.

Even with the above, I am still floating around the idea of installing an electric water pump while I have everything opened up and drained. Even though I have much longer plumbing runs to the radiator in front of UTV back to engine in rear I think the stock water pump is doing ok since temps ok when running it hard. or, am i being fooled and the long runs are of significant concern?

Can I just install an electric inline water pump and only turn it on after I shutdown the motor? In other words, with these electric motors still flow and no act as a restriction to the stock pump when it is working but the electric pump is not powered on? Any ideas for wiring/logic that would automatically turn on this pump for X amount of seconds after the ignition switch is turned off so it is an automatic feature?

Could I run both the stock and inline electric at the same time? Or, will this vapor lock one or the other since the electric likely moves fluid much faster? Just curious as seems like a waste but then again maybe neat feature to just turn on when I idle it down after a hard run for increased flow in theory ...

Or, am i just asking for trouble trying to run both in any method and really need to run only the electric pump? How exactly (details appreciated) do I block off or modify the stock pump so that it does not interfere with the electric pump?

 

[POWERHOUSE]

My UTV (Polaris RZR) with Haybusa engine is boiling over and overheating when stopping but does just fine when riding (just a hair above centerline). I am well aware of getting the air out, have a low temp fan switch, run a strong SPAL fan. Am switching to 2x bigger radiator which is already bigger than the busa radiator(but perhaps not as effecient, etc.), and going to properly convert to Evans waterless coolant to deal with this problem.

Even with the above, I am still floating around the idea of installing an electric water pump while I have everything opened up and drained. Even though I have much longer plumbing runs to the radiator in front of UTV back to engine in rear I think the stock water pump is doing ok since temps ok when running it hard. or, am i being fooled and the long runs are of significant concern?

Can I just install an electric inline water pump and only turn it on after I shutdown the motor? In other words, with these electric motors still flow and no act as a restriction to the stock pump when it is working but the electric pump is not powered on? Any ideas for wiring/logic that would automatically turn on this pump for X amount of seconds after the ignition switch is turned off so it is an automatic feature?

Could I run both the stock and inline electric at the same time? Or, will this vapor lock one or the other since the electric likely moves fluid much faster? Just curious as seems like a waste but then again maybe neat feature to just turn on when I idle it down after a hard run for increased flow in theory ...

Or, am i just asking for trouble trying to run both in any method and really need to run only the electric pump? How exactly (details appreciated) do I block off or modify the stock pump so that it does not interfere with the electric pump?

I would not run the electric pump with the stock pump in place, that is a restriction that your cooling system does not need. The stock pump runs at different rpms, but an electric pump runs at full speed all the time . . . we run them on big street turbos, and they do fine all by themselves. I would consider running an electric pump and gutting the thermostat - take it out, cut the "wings" and remove the center, then re-install it. You might want to hang another SPAL fan on your rad and wire in a bypass switch so you can run the electric water pump and electric fans when the engine is off, or any other time you want.

 

[twvette]

Thanks for the input.

Here are a couple pics:

 

[RussellJ]

That looks like so much fun......