Can't get pass 1.54 60'

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dnstommy

Registered
The last three times I have been to the track I have run 9.30-9.38 about 50 times in a row. If I was bracket racing I would be the champ. But my issue is my 60' is 1.53-1.56 over and over. Even when I really hit it and carry the front end through first gear (at 64 inches long) it is still 1.55.

I have 17/43 gearing, 6 over, nitrous air shifter (No NOS in the motor) and a Micheline tires. I don't have any tire spin at all, I just cant get the 1.499 I want. i leave at 4500 and blast it open. Feels great, but just wont turn the number.

Any thoughts on how to get past this block.
 
17/43 gearing is still high. A 16/43 or 16/44 combo will help. Expect to wind through all of 5th. THe extra torque will require more chassis, so expect to need to lower it more and adjust rear shock.
Rear shock can be revalved and resprung for short money. The stocker will not efficiently handle 64". Need a lot more preload and rebound damping.
A fresh clutch will also help quite a bit. I can tell when mine needs rebuilding because my short times drop off.
You didn't mention that your spinning, so I assume your tire is OK.
 
a runing start..lol actually iam sure you already thought of this but when you pull forward and set the light on the tree do u inch forward another 5-6 inches? you can usually move that much without getting a red light and 6 inchs may be what u need to shave off the time
 
Trust me to pull 1.38 to 1.43 60ft is not easy to do imo. Like Draco1340 said add some more gear to your bike..
 
Alright I f'ed my gearing up. I am 2 down on the front and 3 up in the rear. So ignore my first statement. I thought stock was 19, i think that's pre 2008.

My gearing is 16/46. I know that's a lot different than my first statement. Now my 60's look even worse.

The bike is lowered and strapped. I current run 148-153 mph in the traps running about 10k in 5th gear. I do tend to just barely break the 2nd beam, I'll try rolling a little deeper.

My clutch is modded, but doesn't have a cushion. I might need to go that route and see if that helps.
 
Last edited:
16/46 is agressive, but if your not tagging the 5th gear limiter and if you can keep the front end down, I guess its ok. Look into the clutch. The clutch cusion helped me a bunch. It takes the abrupt edge off the point were the clutch is slipping and the clutch is locked up. By smoothing the transition, the chassis is less affected; less likely to spin or lift.
The other thing not mentioned is throttle. A good 60 ft requires you to be at wide open throttle 10 feet off the line. Hammer the throttle, and try to get the clutch out quickly but smoothly. For me, a good 60 is the result of the clutch out in 1.0 to 1.2 seconds (as measured by datalogger). The bike is theoretically capable of 1.2s based on what people are doing in Real Street at a shorter wheelbase than you have. High 1.3s are realistically possible. Low 1.4s are definitly possible.
 
This may sound crazy.. I don't think gearing is the ticket.. This is where I got 1.48 from my 08 when it was stock motor.
Try a dry hop after your burnt out at 2000 rpm.. Release the clutch as you nail the gas.. When you do it just right. It will snap off the line in a way you just cant do by feeding it gas or clutch. Try to do a dry hop like this, when you get it right, 1743 gear will be plenty. Doing this, when I could get it right, would get me 1.47-1.50.. Stock wheelbase.. Just a pipe... 225lb rider weight..

It sounds odd. When you get it right, it will leave like you were shot out of a cannon..
 
What are your 330' times??

If you are tripping the 60' timer on the rear tier, it will be slower. And deep staging will hurt your 60, not help it. That extra rollout is like a rolling start
 
I am going to try a 17 sprocket and see if that helps. I have a feeling that it will take more torque off the line if it has a little less gear.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
dnstommy said:
Alright I f'ed my gearing up. I am 2 down on the front and 3 up in the rear. So ignore my first statement. I thought stock was 19, i think that's pre 2008.

My gearing is 16/46. I know that's a lot different than my first statement. Now my 60's look even worse.

The bike is lowered and strapped. I current run 148-153 mph in the traps running about 10k in 5th gear. I do tend to just barely break the 2nd beam, I'll try rolling a little deeper.

My clutch is modded, but doesn't have a cushion. I might need to go that route and see if that helps.
Click to expand...
stock gen 1 gearing is 17/40 stock gen 2 is 18/43...i run 16/43 at the track and 17/43 on the street
 
I run 16/40 on my stock motor Gen 1 and I have been 1.43 @63" and that is stock shock all stock suspension, just lowered and strapped and for me the 40T was better than the 42T I had
 
Im going to try adding a tooth back on the front sprocket and see if the torque helps out.

Thanks for the info. I'll let you know what I find.
 
8secBusa is right on the way to leave..Easy to do on the dry hop but on the tree it is harder as you want to rev it more..All Busas I have rode do better with leaving the line at low rpm's.I have alot of trouble at the line wanting to rev higher knowing that it will go better doing what 8secbusa say's to do..My mind tells me to leave low but my hands do it the other way...Try and do it like he explained...
 
Dogman & 8secBusa

I'm going to have to try that myself. I was reading a thread on Brock's website saying leave around 3K is better than higher rpms. I'm 17/43 also, extended 6" over and lowered 1 1/2 in the front. Everytime I get excited and leave higher than 3500, it comes up. I've only been track racing now about 6 months and I would love to see a 1.5 60ft. Mine average mid 1.6's but I'm working on it. Again thanks for the info, will try it next time out. GONE
 
I am at 60'' and my gearing is 17/43 and my 60' are low 1.50's leaving at 4500 rpm. With your wheelbase you need to go 17/45 atleast.
 
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