Carptener clutch mod springs.
- Thread starter JeffSyh
- Start date
Mythos
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If it's the clutch slave cylinder support you're interested in, the one I got by Exoticycle looks nice. I haven't installed it yet but I think it will support a little better than the ones that just press around the base of the slave cylinder. It weighs 2.55 oz and the bolts weigh 1.35 oz.
Berlin Germany
Registered
this support from "Kojak´s" shop
(as one part of his "Clutch Modification Kit")
is only imperative necessary at the gen1 (all from ´99 - ´07 !)
because their sprocket covers aren´t strong enough , when stronger clutch springs are installed.
they bend when ever u pull the lever and the covers crack after a while - already experienced or heard of it dozens of times.
the gen2 sprocket covers needs no support any more - it differs in material thickness and strength
what about the gen3´s cover the future will show but i guess (and hope) it is the same as used at the gen2.
Nastee
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Yes need the support for opposite side of clutch! You can hear/feel the recoil upon release of the clutch & quickly understand why they crack. Ask does my power level require heavy springs? Most likely the honest answer is no unless turbo. I would try running 3 heavy & 3 O.E. rate springs. I started with all heavy and after a season or two was honest with my self about how I use the bike, power level and if I needed that much clutch. I have the same kit and could not bet happier with the results at a 3rd of the price!
Nastee
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Do some looking around and buy the most amount of support you can afford. The cost of not running any will be a lot more cash period...... seriously try 3 heavy springs every other post & the clutch pull isn't so much effort you won't even attempt wheelies; yes my 2 seasons of ego.
Berlin Germany
Registered
@Nastee
hi man
the stronger springs are in a perfect working busa NOT necessary.
only in the case that the busa does the (so called by me) "kangeroo" when you wanna start in 1st gear
and if you want to inactivate the compressing / clutch amplification function (incorrectly called "anti-hopping") of the clutch drive cam and driven cam (see manual page 3-111) , (21610-02F12 CAM SET,CLUTCH)
to stop the kangeroo
by installing a special "inaktivating" ring
as shown in silver / pure alu here at my page at point 3.
but thatfor the entire clutch has to be dismanteled incl. the inner hub and incl. the center nut to get the hub and the "clutch stud holder" (we here call it "star") out
then you should control the "star" if the notches at the beveled ramps are flattened / worn / have defect edges.
if so you can buy that "star" brand new at suzuki or you put the "ring" (available at @Kojak ´s shop in his clutch kit) under the "star" and assemble all again following strictly the manual.
PLUS the 6 stronger springs
AND (imperatively) the sleeve support
_______________
as the technical service from suzuki germany explained to me 3 main points,
a. the standard springs are sufficient for normal operation / use,
b. in the event that you downshift very hard at high speeds, the springs are weak enough to slip the clutch and prevent the rear wheel from locking - a kind of anti-hopping comes up
c. when accelerating hard the ramps in the "star" cause an additional compressing force to the drive/driven plates in the clutch that it doesn´t slip.
_________________
i hope you understand my tech. words and the deeper sense of em
i apologize but it is very hard to explain that very special techn. correlation in a foreign language.
hi man
the stronger springs are in a perfect working busa NOT necessary.
only in the case that the busa does the (so called by me) "kangeroo" when you wanna start in 1st gear
and if you want to inactivate the compressing / clutch amplification function (incorrectly called "anti-hopping") of the clutch drive cam and driven cam (see manual page 3-111) , (21610-02F12 CAM SET,CLUTCH)
to stop the kangeroo
by installing a special "inaktivating" ring
as shown in silver / pure alu here at my page at point 3.
but thatfor the entire clutch has to be dismanteled incl. the inner hub and incl. the center nut to get the hub and the "clutch stud holder" (we here call it "star") out
then you should control the "star" if the notches at the beveled ramps are flattened / worn / have defect edges.
if so you can buy that "star" brand new at suzuki or you put the "ring" (available at @Kojak ´s shop in his clutch kit) under the "star" and assemble all again following strictly the manual.
PLUS the 6 stronger springs
AND (imperatively) the sleeve support
_______________
as the technical service from suzuki germany explained to me 3 main points,
a. the standard springs are sufficient for normal operation / use,
b. in the event that you downshift very hard at high speeds, the springs are weak enough to slip the clutch and prevent the rear wheel from locking - a kind of anti-hopping comes up
c. when accelerating hard the ramps in the "star" cause an additional compressing force to the drive/driven plates in the clutch that it doesn´t slip.
_________________
i hope you understand my tech. words and the deeper sense of em
i apologize but it is very hard to explain that very special techn. correlation in a foreign language.
Last edited:
JeffSyh
Registered
Yah I got the locking ring in already and everything is back together and torqued with a new clutch basket nut the clutch disc's look brand new also (bikes only had 23,000km when I got it). I also re-loctighted the spring studs and bolts. I plan on installing nitrous next winter just want all the drive train ready.
Mythos
Registered
That would probably be a lot safer. If you're concerned about adding weight though, I'll bet dimes to donuts race engine covers will be heavier than stock every time. My Woodcraft stator cover outweighed the stock one by quite a bit but it's stronger if there's an accident.
JeffSyh
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michael parris heuberger
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Hi. Have you looked at the Robinson Out Put Shaft Support Kit? You can up grade it with the two large nuts to7575 T6 aluminum ones. That is the one I have.
Nastee
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Yes the ultimate if you are willing to spend the extra money.
michael parris heuberger
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Hi. Up front $500.00 is a lot better than broken cases.
Mythos
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Well damn!! I see why the Robinson HD countershaft nut is a little taller and not made of aluminum now. I should have kept those nuts I ordered because I will need this output shaft support one day. However, I don't think the output shaft support will prevent the chain from busting through the cover if only the chain breaks. The support looks like it is designed to prevent the countershaft from breaking off for bikes with big boost.
michael parris heuberger
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Hi. That is what is made for. The tall nut fits into the cover, so it is not like the chain is pulling on the end of a leaver.
Mythos
Registered
Yeah, that's what I figured looking at a photo of the output shaft support. It's a heavy bracket with holes in it and the tip of the output shaft nut fits to one of the holes....The bracket prevents the shaft from flexing so much that it snaps off. For a broken drive chain though, I think that could still break through a stock cover if it bunches up underneath.
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi I will be talking to him soon so I will ask him about it..
Nastee
Registered
Agreed but I was not sure of the amount of money he would be willing or even able to spend on this item. It is piece of mind & a work of art. I will get one if I ever go turbo & HD output shaft.
