Center stand woes

[epicrisis]

I have done my best with my s-l-o-w dial-up connection to search for a remedy to my problem, so sorry if this is a redundant question out there. HELP anyone!!! I just installed the factory center stand (radiator must be moved foward a little but not disconnected and the exhaust must be dropped to make way for the stand). After installing it (evrything went very well) and trying to start the bike for the first time after the install, the motor makes a valve tapping/ticking noise which gets louder and goes faster as the revs go up. At first I thought that I didn't tighter the header bolts on tight enough, but I retightened them and it's still making the noise. I don't want to drive it for fear of bending a valv or something else. No electrical connectors were unplugged and all that was done tot he engine was removng the header and re-installing it. Any ideas?????

 

[Turbo-Torch]

Double check all your header connections. A tiny leak sounds just like a loose valve tapping. If it wasn't making the sound before you installed the stand there isn't really anything else it could be.

I've been thinking of getting the center stand. How do you like it so far? Is it well balanced where the bike goes up on it easily?

 

[jwcfbd]

Did you put the rubber bump stop on? There should a stop on the left side for the stand to rest on when it is up.

 

[epicrisis]

I did put the rubber bumper on.... I can have the bike on the center stand and have it idle and hear the noise. It does sound like its coming from the header where the header meets the engine. I have torqued down on the header bolts as tightly as I can before worrying about breaking a bolt.. but the noise persists. I assume there isn't a 'special' way to put the header against the engine... I would think it can go only one way?

I like the centerstand very much.. Like the rest of the posts state, it makes chain maint. SOOO much easier. It doesn't weigh as much as you might think (I'd guess at 8lbs). I also don't have to worry about it being tipped over casually (by other people) as my last bike did several times. It does take some getting used to, it's even a bit harder to put on the stand than a Goldwing, but those are actually easier than you might think.

Any other ideas, or should I take the exhaust off and put it back on again just to be consistant? Is there a danger riding the bike to my dealer (10 miles away) if there is an exhaust leak at the header?

Thanks everyone!!

 

[epicrisis]

Turbo torch, by the way, the bike didn't make any odd noises before, so I am assuming your train of thought is correct. The bike balances well, with the majority of the weight on the front wheel on flat ground. I pushed it pretty hard while it was on the stand and it didn't budge. I have yet to ride it, since I am worried about damaging it. It hasn't even idled from more than 3 seconds or gone over 1500rpm as a precaution.

 

[epicrisis]

One last thought... the instructions called for (step 12) determining if you have a K1 or a K2 Hayabusa (huh?? I thought K bikes were of the BMW variety!!). It instructed that if you have a K1 'Busa you could move onto step 16 of the install insturctions (putting everything back together), but if you have a K2 bike, you have to remove the exhaust canister clamps (connecting the rearmost part of the header to the two pipes), turn them 180 degrees and flip them over so they are backwards of the position they used to be in.

In an atempt to try and make this change, I came to realize that the clamps are stamped in such a manner that you can't take them off and reverse thier position on the pipe (meaning of course that I didn't complete that step of the install).

Sooo, my next question is this: Can a slight exhaust leak at the back of the hearder pipes where they connect to the exhaust cans cause the tapping noise at the front of the engine that I am hearing? If that is a step I have to take (steps 12-16 of the install instructions), any ideas on how to get the clamp off the pipe in order to flip it over (the way it is stamped has got a weld-like connection between the pipe and the clamp).

By the way, I didn't try to take that step in the install instructions the first time I finished, so there isn't a chance that a leak cold have been caused by attempting to take the clamps off on the first install attempt. Yikes, I just want to RIDE!!!

 

[mctrull]

K1 is 2001 and K2 is 2002 model bikes. I would remove the exhaust, use Mega(or Ultra, I can never remember) Copper to seal all of the seams and joints in the exaust. That way you can be assured you sealed it all and eliminate a possible exhaust leak. They sell the stuff at part stores and it is in a copper colored tube.

 

[jwcfbd]

The easist way to find an exhaust leak is with the bike running at idle have some one cover the muffler outlets with a rag. This will force air out of the smallest place so you can find your leak.

 

[epicrisis]

Great... I will do the mega/ultra seal and try the rag thing too. I am assuming that I am not running a risk of damaging the engine by letting it idle with a leak? Is this something I should do as quickly as possible and not let it idle long, or does it not matter? Thanks again for your help guys.

 

[jwcfbd]

The leak should be a problem unless it is blowing hot exhaust gas right on one of the fairings. It could melt it.

 

[mctrull]

Nah, you are fine idling but, if you use the sealant you will not have to let it sit and idle while trying to track the leak. You will eliminate the chance of a leak all over.

 

[epicrisis]

All righty... I used the product (self-gasket maker) and the rag method adn I can't find any leaks anywhere. I also returned the bike back to pre-centerstand setup and it is still making the same noise. I think I am stuck having to bring it to the dealer. Can anyone think of ANYTHING else that could be making the noise? Thanks everyone

 

[atticdog]

My bike did the same thing after i installed the exhaust
i ordered new exhaust gaskets and installed them
also do you have pair block off plates if one is loose that can cause the ticking
but more than likely its the exhaust gaskets

 

[atticdog]

4 of these from www.ronayers.com
Part Number: 14181-22D01
Description: GASKET,EXHAUST
Price: $4.77 each

 

[Turbo-Torch]

All righty... I used the product (self-gasket maker) and the rag method adn I can't find any leaks anywhere.  I also returned the bike back to pre-centerstand setup and it is still making the same noise.  I think I am stuck having to bring it to the dealer.  Can anyone think of ANYTHING else that could be making the noise?  Thanks everyone

Thanks for the info on the center stand. Think I'll be ordering one soon, just wish the bottom wing didn't have to come off.

As Atticdog mentioned, get new gaskets. Ronayers is awesome, but if they don't have them in stock you're looking at nearly two weeks of no riding.
I've never had the exhaust apart on my Busa but any other vehicle I've owned has required new gaskets or donut packings after removing the headers or manifolds.
A leak at the rear where the muffler pipes attach most likely would NOT cause a ticking sound.

Also I don't know of anything that comes out of a tube that will withstand the temperatures at a header pipe. Odds are the stuff dried up into a crust as soon as the engine came up to temperature and made things worse. There is a spray on copper coating that I usually put on new manifold and head gaskets, but it won't help a used damaged gasket.

Have you been able to pinpoint exactly where the ticking is coming from? You can always take a dowel rod or cut down an old broomstick, stick one end to your ear and the other end to various spots on the engine until you pinpoint the problem area.

Like I said I've never had the exhaust apart on my Busa, but if the gaskets are dead soft copper you can try to anneal them by heating them up cherry red with a torch and then immediately quenching them in cool water. Be careful not to bend them right after the process.
If you have fiber type gaskets ignore the above

Good luck!

 

[epicrisis]

Wow... lots of new info this morning. I didn't look at the exhaust gaskets because I didn't know they were there. I'll take the headers off and look again. That makes perfect sense. I'll also try the stick option to find out which one is making the noise. This has got to be the most frustrating thing I've ever done with a car or bike (limited experience obviously). I did find out that the bike sounds REALLY mean without any besides the header... the die-hard Harley guy across the street actually came over to talk to me about the bike... and I hadn't met him in all the 4 years I've lived on my block! Anyway, I'll keep you guys posted and thanks!!

 

[epicrisis]

Atticdog..... what kind of block-off plates do you mean? The only kind I could think of were mirror block-off plates, and I don't have any.. I don't want to miss out on the advice by nopt knowing that it is you mean. I am assuming that the exhaust gasket you are refering to is between the cylinder hear and the exhaust header, right?

 

[atticdog]

Do you have the stock exhaust?
if not then the pair valve should have been removed and there should be 4 plates blocking off a hole above ech header,(2 bolts on each plate) if you have stock pipe then it is prolly just the gasket ot the header not seated correctly
since you only took off the exhaust its prolly a leak on one pipe
the gaskets are like copper and may be stuck in the head requireing a screwdriver or something to pry them out

 

[epicrisis]

Atticdog... I do have just the stock pipes on there right now. The PAIR system is still intact on my bike. I have not had a chance to get to the gaskets and inspect them yet, but I will tonight. I have seen the PAIR system mentioned a few times on here before, but never paid attention. Is there a benefit to removing it?

 

[atticdog]

not untill you get an aftermarket exhaust