Chain Adjustment 101

[The Oracle]

If you are like me (barely know the difference between a box wrench and a mitre saw)... Than this post may help you to adjust your chain slack.

The Motorcycle Owner's Manula (MOM) tells us that the tension should be set between 20 - 30mm (0.8 - 1.2 in) of slack. To measure this, the bike should be on its kickstand (since the value will vary if it is upright, on a rear stand, etc.). I use a simple and cheap caliper (that displays millimeters) to check my slack. Until you are used to it, eyeballing this setting may prove to be WAY off (as I found out).

1. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. The axle nut is 36mm.
2. Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire. They are 12mm.
3. Turn both adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) to adjust the chains slack. You will find that you don't have to adjust these very far to change the tension a good bit. Make sure you use the reference marks to make both sides even. The adjuster bolts are 10mm.
4. Tighten both lock nuts.
5. Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb).
9. Re-check the chain slack and make sure it is set properly.
10. Replace the cotter pin.
11. Grab a beer and celebrate!

Everything that is underlined above is shown in the attached detail picture.

Please let me know if you do this a different way, I missed something, or anything is on your mind.

Cheers, Vaughn.

 

[monsterspeedfreak]

If you are like me (barely know the difference between a box wrench and a mitre saw)...  Than this post may help you to adjust your chain slack.

The Motorcycle Owner's Manula (MOM) tells us that the tension should be set between 20 - 30mm (0.8 - 1.2 in) of slack.  To measure this, the bike should be on its kickstand (since the value will vary if it is upright, on a rear stand, etc.).  I use a simple and cheap caliper (that displays millimeters) to check my slack.  Until you are used to it, eyeballing this setting may prove to be WAY off (as I found out).

1.  Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut.  The axle nut is 36mm.
2.  Loosen the lock nuts on both sides of the tire.  They are 12mm.
3.  Turn both adjuster bolts (there is one on each side of the bike) to adjust the chains slack.  You will find that you don't have to adjust these very far to change the tension a good bit.  Make sure you use the reference marks to make both sides even.  The adjuster bolts are 10mm.
4.  Tighten both lock nuts.
5.  Tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench set at 100 Nm (10 kgf-m or 72.5 ft-lb).
9.  Re-check the chain slack and make sure it is set properly.
10.  Replace the cotter pin.
11.  Grab a beer and celebrate!

Everything that is underlined above is shown in the attached detail picture.

Please let me know if you do this a different way, I missed something, or anything is on your mind.

Cheers, Vaughn.

Rip....you can't adjust yer chain with a mitre saw.........can you?

 

[WWJD]

I adjusted my mitre saw chain once.
...and a m00se once bit my sister...
It looks like GREAT information. I, too, and challenged but want to do basic stuff like this myself. Looks like a great guide!

 

[Revlis]

Sweet Thanks...

 

[The Oracle]

Rip....you can't adjust yer chain with a mitre saw.........can you?

err, uuuhhh...

I meant Mitre Box saw... Yeah, yeah, that's the ticket!

 

[Jace]

are you sure you did not leave anything out i thought there should be a screwdriver, crowbar, and some bailing wire in there also .......dont forget the duct tape for working on the bike !!!!........hehe

looks like good info .......

 

[paistes5]

Jace was absolutely right. I can't work on anything unless I have two essential items right by my side, a hammer and some Alabama Chrome (duct tape).

 

[Narcissus]

Don't bother with those adjustment marks. Get a long piece of wood, pipe or the likes; line it up with your tire edges (start with either side) and note where it goes to the front of the bike. Do the same for the other side. Both should come at about the same point under the front forks or line up with the body if you are unsure how straight the front wheel is.

 

[rubbersidedown]

 Make sure you use the reference marks to make both sides even.  

V.....my man...these just aren't ACK-Q-R-IT .

 

[rubbersidedown]

the wood or straight metal thing......

hard too judge . if you put 2 pieces of whatever against yer rear tire , they're gonna be a couple inches out from yer front . An thats if the metal/wood is PERFECTLY straight.
You got a perfectly straight 7 foot long 2 by 4 around.

'Course not.....no 1 does .

The tires are different widths . you gonna guess the difference .

Plus....if yer even out 1/64 of an' inch in linin' it up out back.....it's gonna change BIGTIME , by the time you eyeball it up front .

Here's where we UNFORTUNATELY have to trust in the factory .

There is only one true constant here .

The distance between swing-arm center to rear axle center

Left an' right side . 2X4 's , metal lenths.....

They're just not gonna do it .

Sorry narc.....I know ya read it...I did too....yrs ago .