Chain Installation

[danath 34]

Hey guys. I just installed a new chain myself for the first time, and was wondering if you guys could give me a sanity check.

I installed a DID ZVM-X, with a rivet type master. On DID's website, I found the tolerance I need to hit for the diameter of the rivets. DID calls out .217" - .228", and I hit .220" on one pin, and .221" on the other.

However, does the width of the link itself matter? I have not been able to find a tolerance for the link width anywhere, so I'm guessing it isn't as important. The link does not bind up, and seems alright. But out of curiosity, I measured the width of the links before and after the master, and they measured .868" - .872", whereas the master I installed measures .852 at one side and .862 on the other. This seems pretty off. Should I just go ahead and get a new master link and try again, or is it fine to ride?

 

[dadofthree]

Wow, I just flair the rivet a tad and go I've installed at least a half dozen chains on two different Busi. Hopefully someone will be along. Question, is the link free or frozen ?

Engineer at Sandia ?

 

[danath 34]

Wow, I just flair the rivet a tad and go I've installed at least a half dozen chains on two different Busi. Hopefully someone will be along. Question, is the link free or frozen ?

Engineer at Sandia ?

By free/frozen, do you mean does the link flex and rotate freely? Then yes, it is free and does not seem any more stiff than any other links.
OK, maybe I'm over-analyzing. I have a tendency to do that. Just figured I'd check to be safe before I called it good.

Not at Sandia, but I am an (aspiring) engineer! Got one more semester at UNM.

 

[dadofthree]

Well nothing wrong with any of that. Pros with good opinions might be along but if the links are free you're probably good to go. Orings Xeings in the master link look good I say Grip It and Rip It.

I'm highly analytical but been around a year or two. It doesn't hurt to make sure that chain is right. If it breaks it might just fall to the pavement but they can also mess up a leg or take out the engine cases. So it's critical my friend.

 

[E Zurcher]

Your master link width should be pretty darn close to the other links with the plates on the outside. Sounds like you are pretty close and on the tight side. Take a look at he O-rings/X-rings and make sure they are not overly squished. I would just keep an eye on them and if they hold up you are good to go. If you see deterioration, you can always replace the master link with a new one. If you removed some links from the new chain before installation you should have some spare seals so keep them. Park makes a good heavy duty chain tool and the instructions are very detailed. I flared mine to the wide side of the tolerance because I want to make sure that sucker does not come off.

 

[mjl3truck]

Don't know about DID chain but EK master links comes with shims that fits over the pins to get the correct distance s you don't crush the orings.
Usually I don't go crazy flaring the pins because you may crack the flares.

 

[danath 34]

Thanks for the input guys.

I'll take a look at the o-rings and if they're good I'm just going to ride it and keep an eye on it.