Changing oil on Busa

tmf2004

tmf2004

Registered
I just recently bought the Clymer Service manual to learn more about the bike and some diy's.. They show step by step for the oil change but is there anything else i need to do? My bike stand will here Wednesday to make the process easier..

Also, where can i buy the Filter and Mobil 1 10-40 oil from? Thanks guys
 
Found some newer oil change pics from a member.. The fairings and oil filter seem challenging from the pics.. Anything else i should know..

I think I'm going with Mobil 1 4T and purolater or Suzuki OEM filter..
 
I find K&n filter and AMSOIL full synthetic to work alot better than other oils. And the logevity of it is nice too.

If the mobil 1 is a synthetic oil do not go with a stock filter go with a synthetic filter
 
tmf2004 said:
Found some newer oil change pics from a member.. The fairings and oil filter seem challenging from the pics.. Anything else i should know..

I think I'm going with Mobil 1 4T and purolater or Suzuki OEM filter..
Click to expand...

If it's your first time unbuttoning her, plan on giving yourself at least 2 hours. Follow the sticky for fairing removal in the GenII section and take your time. It'll get much quicker the more you do it. You should only need to take off the right side. I know it's obvious, but remember to take it off the stand and be on a level plane when filling it and checking it. Some people will add the oil with it on the stand, which messes up the reading, so then when they lower it, they've put too much in.
 
RussellJ said:
I find K&n filter and AMSOIL full synthetic to work alot better than other oils. And the logevity of it is nice too.

Where can i pick up these products? Which website.. I used to run Amsoil in my mustang years ago.. Great stuff..

If the mobil 1 is a synthetic oil do not go with a stock filter go with a synthetic filter
Click to expand...

III said:
If it's your first time unbuttoning her, plan on giving yourself at least 2 hours. Follow the sticky for fairing removal in the GenII section and take your time. It'll get much quicker the more you do it. You should only need to take off the right side. I know it's obvious, but remember to take it off the stand and be on a level plane when filling it and checking it. Some people will add the oil with it on the stand, which messes up the reading, so then when they lower it, they've put too much in.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the tips.. :thumbsup:
 
OB_RSTRICK said:
Trying to keep the topic alive...This is something I have never thought of, looking for advice.
Click to expand...

Just make sure the filter you buy is compatible with synthetic oil. Most of your high-end filters such as AMSOIL and K&N filters are compatible with synthetic oil.
 
My Amsoil is arriving today via UPS and i still need a oil filter.. IS Fram a synthetic filter and does anyone have a part number.. Thanks

FRAM Extra Guard Oil Filter (PH)

3X Engine Protection

* Cellulose and Synthetic glass media provides 3X MORE engine protection than the average of leading economy oil filters.
 
"DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS"

The internal structure of the filter is made from card board and will not withstand constant contact with petroleum and the amount of heat it's subjected to.
 
BGPKR said:
"DO NOT USE FRAM OIL FILTERS"

The internal structure of the filter is made from card board and will not withstand constant contact with petroleum and the amount of heat it's subjected to.
Click to expand...

Thanks Sir, I ordered a K&N but wanted to know what i could use that was readily available at the parts store..

Thanks :thumbsup:
 
Today i finally got around to changing the oil.. It went pretty well.. I used a Torque wrench on the oil pan bolt but after a few passes i heard no clicks so i stopped.. I didn't want to risk stripping it.. Even though i threaded it straight and it felt like it was threading properly i didn't want to take a chance. I used foil on the pipes when changing the filter but managed to still get oil on the pipes. It was burning off as the bike was warming up..

All in all it went fairly well.. I leave for vacation next week and I'll attempt the coolant change when i get back.. :thumbsup:

Thanks to all the members who answered my PM's.. Appreciate the help..:bowdown:

Thanks again,

Tony
 
fram part # 6018 I believe and I ran fram on my 2007 for 2 plus years and when they did my valve adjustment the mechanic did a leak down test and the bike showed 3% ware also using full Synthetic shell rotella diesel oil.....bought it new gone at 38xxx miles ran like a top. bobstheoilguy.com check it out
 
071300r said:
fram part # 6018 I believe and I ran fram on my 2007 for 2 plus years and when they did my valve adjustment the mechanic did a leak down test and the bike showed 3% ware also using full Synthetic shell rotella diesel oil.....bought it new gone at 38xxx miles ran like a top. bobstheoilguy.com check it out
Click to expand...



I like the oil guy website. It is very useful. You can find an oil analysis on just about any oil you look for on their.
 
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