Clutch Fibers...

[OB_ZXALAN]

I don't really think that it matters as long as the total stack height is 2.00"

I thought about trying to put in thinner steels so I could squeeze in one extra fiber for a little more heat dissipation. Have you ever felt you clutch cover after a few drag strip runs? It is almost as hot as the exhaust!much hotter then the motor. My clutch started to slip but when I put the schnitz mod in with the Pro-street springs it quit. I measured stack height when I had it apart and it was about .020" too short but I put it back in like that and it has been fine for 700 miles and about 30 passes. When it goes I'll probably put OEM stuff back in. I think its the best believe it or not!

 

[OB_GSXRboy]

Are you running the heavy duty springs with the Schnitz spacers??? I know a lot of people have cracked their covers doing that...

 

[OB_ZXALAN]

No, I am just running the HD springs with out the spacers, clutch lever is stiff enough as it is with just the new springs, it would be waaay to tight with pro-street springs and spacers, thats sure to break something!!

 

[OB_c.dolan]

This is old news, so I'll try the quick version. I reworked clutch over a year ago, since nothing was readily available, OEM, or aftermarket. I went with all thick plates, ( 8 ) in the form of '83 to '85 Kaw GPZ 750 plates. I also use the GPZ steels, which are .015" thicker. The main thing is to get correct stack height. I ordered Barnett plates, as GPZ, later on. Last time I had clutch apart, for inspection only, it had only .030" total wear on stack height, after 4 months of drgracing. Bike also has Brock Mod, stock springs, with shims. Stack height can be adjusted with various combinations of steel plates, or even doubling up a pair of steels. The 8 plate combo has plenty of grip, and deals with heat better than the thin version. I believe the great number of plates used in OEM set, was to allow use of low spring pressure, to make lever use "easier". The down side,is this is also one of the main contributors of the clutch engagement being "sudden" when launch is attempted. Currently, I have a billet clutch shell / lock up clutch coming in about 2 weeks. OEM clutch stood up well for over a year, with stock motor, and slick / wheelie bar, in the past 4 months. Getting stronger clutch for anticipated hp increase, later in the year. Properly set up lock up clutch makes launch easier, also. ................ ..Well, so much for the "quick" version

[This message has been edited by c.dolan (edited 11 July 2000).]

 

[OB_ZXALAN]

Hey Chris, how quick is your bike running now? What you got on it? Pipe, gearing,FI mods, etc?

 

[OB_GSXRboy]

I was wondering if anyone has tried to run 3 or 4 of the thick fibers instead of just 2??? I was thinking about trying to pull out 1 or 2 of the thin fibers and replace them with the thick ones. I'm just not sure if it will work or not. Just trying to go fast!

 

[OB_c.dolan]

Still stuck in the 9.80's. ( 220 lb rider ) Mods: slick, bar, air shifter, 16 : 50 gearing, airbox mod, Yosh, PC II, Brock Mod, Barnett ( GPZ ) plates. Just broke 140 mph, last week. Launch conditions not that great, still have 1.60 60ft. times. Will bring some VHT, next time. I think lock up clutch, with "soft" initial spring setting will help 60' and 330'. for overall improvement in 1/4 mile et. Also, have some lighter mag wheels on the way. Bike should be down to 1.4 60' times, if I can improve launch. Still waiting for turbo drama to settle. Will put one on bike when supply more reliable. If I get tired of waiting, I will go back to restoring my 1150 car tire bike.