clutch problems

zman 05 busa

Registered
Just put a new barnett clutch in- I know, bad idea, and it slips HORRIBLY. Whenever you get on the throttle, it doesn't do much just jumps up in rpm, then slowly grabs. What did I do wrong? I didn't measure the plates as I put them in because it wasn't stock, so I figured the measurements would be different. Any help?
 
I believe the service manual shows the measurements.

Did you soak the fiber plates before installation??
 
Did you use the Barnett springs? MT-126-6

If you are not using any spring spacers, the Barnett springs (yellow) have less pressure than the stock springs. The free height is too short. You’ll have more pressure with a new set of stock springs. Installed height is about .880. A stock spring measures 35 lbs and the Barnett measures about 27 lbs.

If you are using a clutch mod or welded hub, you’ll need some spacers or different springs.
 
I'm also interested in what the total stack measurement is.
 
I did soak them- maybe not long enough, maybe around 10 mins each. Did not change anything but the discs. No idea what the stack measurement is. Should I at least get stock springs?
 
I had a whole thread on removing and replacing back the clutch but it disappeared from here.
You did not put one of the parts back right.

If i could figure out how to post a movie thing here,i can show you.

Pm sent to you.
 
ok,here is the video...
clicky

If this piece does not jiggle like in the video,you have it in wrong,and your clutch will slip BIG TIME!!
 
I will definately try that- I didn't touch that thing when I replaced- but that could be the reason the clutch that was in there was slipping a little too, hence my reason for putting in another. Thanks! Will let you know if it works.
 
Zman,

I’m guessing you are working on a 05 by your screen name.

There was a change in the clutches in 2002. Barnett’s catalog is a bit screwy. It shows the difference when you look at the individual parts but it is showing the same part numbers for the kits. Barnett Link

1999-01 Friction K-1100(8)_K-900K(2)
Steels HP-27-20(7) HP-27-23(2)
Complete kit *TM-42K *TM-42CF

2002-05 Friction K-1100K(8)_K-900K(1) HDP-13B(1)
Steels HP-27-20(7) HP-27-23(2)
Complete kit *TM-42K *TM-42CF

For a 05 you should have 3 different friction plates and two different steel plate. The friction that goes inside has a smaller inside diameter, so less surface area (it is also thicker). The one on the outside is thicker than the rest. (by .032).
Did you get 3 different Friction disks or two? In the diagrams at the bottom, notice part number 14 and 15 are not in the lower one. The lower one is the 99-01. If you are using the 99-01 style plates with the cush ring (14-15 in the upper) you are going to have problem.

Download the service manual at the top of the page. The clutch is for the 99-01 style but it has some good info.

Pages 3-66 3-112 3-113 10-3-3


The outside plate is also “clockedâ€￾ different from the rest. See the illustration on page 3-112



Springs. Yes, I think you should replace them. Mine lost .050â€￾ in free length. The .050â€￾ of loss meant it had 5lbs less pressure per spring. That is 30lbs total or almost like removing one spring from a new set!
Clutch stack height can also reduce spring pressure.


Old clutch, what did it look like? Do you have a picture of the plates and fibers? If the fibers were wasted, you may need to clean your oil screen of debris.

Link to pictures ... I'll fix it later to display here.

02-06

99-01
 
Brendan- looks as if someone has welded that part together to stop that jiggling- the weld has broken but does not jiggle that freely- do I need a new one?
 
(zman 05 busa @ Nov. 16 2006,14:51) Brendan- looks as if someone has welded that part together to stop that jiggling- the weld has broken but does not jiggle that freely- do I need a new one?
Are you planning on drag racing it?
 
I would replace it. Stock it is a back torque limiter. Not quite a slipper clutch but it take a bit of the shock out of the downshifts. If you look at a factory one, it places just a bit of extra pressure on the clutch pack under throttle. When it it welded (or replaced with a lightweight one-piece unit) you should add some spring pressure. Brock includes .180" thick spacers to go on top of the springs with his clutch mod to increase pressure.

The stock pieces are not hard to find used. I'd suggest getting another for your application.

You still need to take a look at the rest of it including the stack thickness before it goes back together.
 
Yes- have taken it out/ put it back in twice now per manual and it doesn't work at all now, won't go into gear- so I think I'm going to get a new stock clutch, spring and hub setup and start from scratch. Thanks to all for your great advice.
 
Barnett clutches suck! Try putting all the clutch plates in a stack and seeing if they are truly flat. I'd bet you will find they are warped as hell. I tried running them on a Sportster a while back, and if they weren't slipping, then they would pull when disengaged.

I like the stock Busa plates the best, but I'd never buy Barnett again (I tried two sets).
 
UPDATE- got the new clutch in and all seems to be well, however with all the drain/refills of the oil, the lower case has stripped causing a small oil leak. Are there any quick/cheap fixes besides replacing the lower pan? Tried running a tap in there already, no help.
 
It's funny cause I was just thinking about how you made out tonight.
You can use this product that I have used and works great.
It is called Seal All,and you can get it at your local Pep Boys or Auto zone.

Seal All

Of course this is only a temporary fix,but it wont leak after you use it. But you will need to use it everytime you pull that plug.
 
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