Clutch ?

tinbender0

Cool Breeze
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When is it time to replace? I don't do very many hard launches or anything :whistle: . But I've noticed my clutch doesn't engage until the last 1/8 " of play of my lever. Seems like I used to have more on the lever. I know it hydraulic but where should the friction zone of the clutch start in relation to the lever. I'm not experiencing any slippage at this time, should I be worried??? When its time to replace and what's the best to go back with. Stock? Modded? Help is Appreciated :bowdown: I have about 12,00 miles on the bike
 
How many miles? What year is your bike? If older than 03,, you need the 2003 OEM stack replacement. Simple stuff. Also pump out and drain your old fluids. Another thing you could do would be to take the starter cover off and just clean the slave push rod. It gets a bit gunked up. Stick w/ OEM plates, Barnett's as an exampl, chew up clutch baskets.
 
12,000 Miles, changed fluids about 6 months ago. But, I didn't clean the slave push rod, I'll check on that sometime this week.
 
Hey cookie,ever try an FBG? I went with the APE last time and didnt make it through one season of drag racing. I got mabey 35-40 passes out of it.
 
Hey cookie,ever try an FBG? I went with the APE last time and didnt make it through one season of drag racing. I got mabey 35-40 passes out of it.

Anything FBG does has to be good. But for the masses, most just want to sit and spin on the OEM's.

What kind of times are you pulling?
 
I wouldn't replace it. Take it apart and check the measurements per the service manual. Cookie is on the right track. I would stick with OEM parts. If you want to prepare a bit, buy a set of springs, and 4-5 thick metal plates (driven plate. If everything looks to be within specs swap thick metals for thin to get the total stack right. About 1.97” is usually about what I have seen on a new stock stack although I bring mine to 1.99”-2.00”. Stock stack usually has 7 thin and 2 thick driven plates. When new mine usually have (a)5 thin and 4 thick or (b) 4 thin and 5 thick plates. Substituting a thick for a thin usually adds .012” to the height. As mine wears I keep dropping in new thick plates during my clutch prep. I usually end up with 6-7 thicks before the friction drive plates drop out of spec or otherwise toast it. As it wears you will see it move the engagement point further out on the lever. I prefer mine to release closer to the bar so that is one reason I build mine to 1.99”-2.00”. The other reason is it puts a few a bit more tension on the springs for more holding power.

On the typical clutch mod that is being used (locking up the two-piece hub). If you are not launching it hard enough to feel it chatter as you are slipping the clutch during initial launch, you are better off leaving the stock hub configuration in place.

Most often you will see slippage first occur during full throttle high gear pulls.
 
The service limits on the parts are listed on page 3-66 12-2 and 12-11 in the service manual.
 
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