Colessurfer
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Diy Handlebar Risers By Uk Owner
- Thread starter Colessurfer
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Busabim
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Nice job. Soupys risers are about $20 (I believe) with all hardware.
http://soupysperformance.com/suzuki/hayabusa/soupys-front-gsx1300r-hayabusa-lowering-kit.html
BB
http://soupysperformance.com/suzuki/hayabusa/soupys-front-gsx1300r-hayabusa-lowering-kit.html
BB
Didn't know they had Home Depots on the other side of the pond! Honestly, that does not look good and is actually not smart. Neither are Soupy's dumba** spacers, imho. Both of them leave the handlebar "holder" flexing on the outsides, over the fork tubes. Does that even look safe to you? The best and safest setup we have seen so far are the Genmar risers . . .
Colessurfer
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Hi mate
Thanks for that but these are copied from legitimate risers you can buy legally. Surely they wouldn't be able to sell them if they are not safe ?
Thanks for that but these are copied from legitimate risers you can buy legally. Surely they wouldn't be able to sell them if they are not safe ?
They sell a lot of things that are not safe, like Hayabusas. Look at that top triple tree (what is actually the handlebar clamp) . . . if you lean down hard enough, you can at the very least bend - if not snap - the entire end of that part that holds the bars on each side. I am sure any roadracer in his right mind would not want the handlebars flexing or possibly worse . . . good luck with that.
Since they are stacked washers, and not solid, the top plate has more room to flex and shift too. Especially if the bolts become loose.
Colessurfer
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Thanks for you replies I am now adapting support for each end to support handlebar ends( have spacers that fit on top of fork stem, will post when done for opinions/ advice I think you are all right though.
Dave
Dave
Busabim
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I used soupys for years without an issue as have others and the blocks under the triple clamp where they are bolted do not flex, but I agree you can flex the outside by the clip ons if you press hard enough.
Never heard of anyone crashing due to a properly installed set of soupys risers but genmar or other block types of risers are much more stable across the total surface area under the triple clamp.
I (also) would not use washers for they are not rigid enough and prone to much play between the plates.
BB
Never heard of anyone crashing due to a properly installed set of soupys risers but genmar or other block types of risers are much more stable across the total surface area under the triple clamp.
I (also) would not use washers for they are not rigid enough and prone to much play between the plates.
BB
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Colessurfer
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Project aborted
Good evening all , you'll be glad to know I have now aborted this project and bars are back in normal position, I thought it was just to dangerous and I value life. Thanks for the support Dave
Good evening all , you'll be glad to know I have now aborted this project and bars are back in normal position, I thought it was just to dangerous and I value life. Thanks for the support Dave
Hey guys. There is also some clarity that guys need to be aware of with this issue. During a normal ride on a smooth road not goofing around, odds are there won't be issues. The issue comes into play when someone is doing a wheelie and comes down on the front end hard, or if someone hits a pothole, curb or something of that sort hard enough that there is potential impact issues.
I had ss 1.75" risers, and later .75" risers (the same ones cut in half)combined with Heli-bars.
I never had an issue, probably 15k miles before I switched to Spiegler topclamp and dirtbike bars.
I see the concern with risers, but risk is minimal. To each their own.
I personally wouldn't say the risers are bad idea. I would only use solid material instead of washers. To make a more structurally secure and stronger part.
With the full plate spacer, it's no different than without it (other than improved comfort). The top plate the bars mount to is the same, only taller. The bars are still in the same spot (just higher), supported the same underneathe.
With bar stock spacers, you lose some of the strength of the perimeter of the top plate contacting the upper tripple clamp.
That is a thin edge only, roughly an 1/8", but it still helps.
Real problem is that the top plate is cast aluminum. So it'll break, not bend.
In the many miles of using spacers on my gen2, I was fortunate enough to never have a problem. Including several potholes, a few hard landed wheelies, and one damp fork at 15 or 16k or so, and I replaced fork seals.
The top clamp held up.
I never had an issue, probably 15k miles before I switched to Spiegler topclamp and dirtbike bars.
I see the concern with risers, but risk is minimal. To each their own.
I personally wouldn't say the risers are bad idea. I would only use solid material instead of washers. To make a more structurally secure and stronger part.
With the full plate spacer, it's no different than without it (other than improved comfort). The top plate the bars mount to is the same, only taller. The bars are still in the same spot (just higher), supported the same underneathe.
With bar stock spacers, you lose some of the strength of the perimeter of the top plate contacting the upper tripple clamp.
That is a thin edge only, roughly an 1/8", but it still helps.
Real problem is that the top plate is cast aluminum. So it'll break, not bend.
In the many miles of using spacers on my gen2, I was fortunate enough to never have a problem. Including several potholes, a few hard landed wheelies, and one damp fork at 15 or 16k or so, and I replaced fork seals.
The top clamp held up.
Colessurfer
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I will feel more confident with solid whole area spacers. Thanks for the post though
Dave
Dave
Derrick0580
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Don't most people go that route to lower the front end? If you put the spacers in and then bring the forks up through the bottom clamp, wouldn't it be as sturdy as it was in the stock position?
Colessurfer
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Off already lolNice busa but that washer mod no offence looks crap take them off and put some heli bars on it
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