Well take it for what its worth. Lots of guys are using the red cap M1 and have no probs. I filled my bus with it about 50 miles ago and it feels great. BUT!!! I called mobil to ask if it was ok to use in a wet clutch system " oh no , we would never reccomend a standard motor oil for a m cycle , use MX4T 10-40" There you have it... ill be draining mine tonite. sj
DONT USE MOBIL 1!
- Thread starter gsteve
- Start date
So, ummm...Did you REALLY expect them to say, "By all means, save a LOT of money by buyin' the same thing under a different label."?
I have mixed reviews of Mobil1. Both car and bike, M1 seems to "burn off" quicker than previous oils [synth blend in car, castol blend in bike] and I have no idea why. It ran fine and it was properly matched, but seemed to evaporate. In the busa, it FELT like the Mobil1 BROKE DOWN quicker: after about 4000 miles and ADDING A FULL EXTRA QUART, the tranny was shifting CLUNKY HARD like it never has before. Haven't tried Silkolene yet, but not impressed with my first runs of Mobil one... which is odd since the rest of the planet seems to love it. Perhaps my particular applications and technique is not best suited for it
I was using the MOTORCYLE Mobil1 in the Busa
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I was using the MOTORCYLE Mobil1 in the Busa
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... Exactly ...So, ummm...Did you REALLY expect them to say, "By all means, save a LOT of money by buyin' the same thing under a different label."?
willgetbusa
Registered
why put car oil in a bike to begin with? that's why there's two types of mobile 1.
purplefalcon
Registered
do whatever you need to do to feel good about it, but in the mean time i have mobil 1 in the busa, had it in the zx12r and in the cbr1100xx before that, i rode them hard and they worked just grand.
Do some research on the net and you'll find articles by chemists that have analyzed both bike and car versions of Mobile 1 and can't find a difference. We're talkin' chemists who analyzed them side by side, not some guy that tried both in his bike and declared them the same thing. The only difference is the cap color and the label. FWIW, I've got the bike label stuff in mine because I couldn't find the weight I wanted locally the day I bought my oil. If I could have found the right weight I would have went with the car labeled oil and saved a few bucks for gas money.
Do what you want, but you're wastin' money by buyin' the bike label stuff. At least with Mobil 1 anyway. The only discernable reason they market (not make) two different "versions" of Mobil 1 is so they can bend bikers over on price. Bikes usually hold less so to make the same money or even more they charge more per quart and put a different label on it.
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From what I've heard, the motorcycle versions have had some additives REMOVED in order to prevent clutch slippage.
It's like how decaf coffee costs more than regular coffee or unleaded gas costing more than leaded. Take something out and charge more.
That said, it all depends on the bike. I've never heard of a Busa's clutch slipping from using regular "car" synthetic motor oil. If the bike runs fine with it there is no need to waste extra money on the "motorcycle" oil. That's what's great about this forum, you get to talk to people who have been there, done that.
Other models of bikes may slip on synthetic and if that's the case try the motorcycle oil or just go to a synthetic blend.
As far as what brand oil is best...Who here has ever simply worn out a car or bike engine and said to themselves "Gee if only I had used brand X oil this wouldn't have happened"?
Better yet, has anyone here ever had a car, truck or bike engine (say from 1990 on up) wear out with less than 250,000 miles on it? And I'm talking bearings, rings, cams ect. in a vehicle where the oil was changed every 3K miles.
It's like how decaf coffee costs more than regular coffee or unleaded gas costing more than leaded. Take something out and charge more.
That said, it all depends on the bike. I've never heard of a Busa's clutch slipping from using regular "car" synthetic motor oil. If the bike runs fine with it there is no need to waste extra money on the "motorcycle" oil. That's what's great about this forum, you get to talk to people who have been there, done that.
Other models of bikes may slip on synthetic and if that's the case try the motorcycle oil or just go to a synthetic blend.
As far as what brand oil is best...Who here has ever simply worn out a car or bike engine and said to themselves "Gee if only I had used brand X oil this wouldn't have happened"?
Better yet, has anyone here ever had a car, truck or bike engine (say from 1990 on up) wear out with less than 250,000 miles on it? And I'm talking bearings, rings, cams ect. in a vehicle where the oil was changed every 3K miles.
Bingo.
OIL SHOPPING 101: I consider myself fairly knowledgeable about lubricants (ky is still the best value...heheheh).
Oils are not created equal.
My buddy who owns a bike shop here in town attends seminars on oil . He knows oil. I listen to about every third word he says (I get bored on the oil topic) but he knows.
You can use just about any oil you want.
Just consider these things:
How long do I want my bike to last ?
Do I ever want it to break down?
Do I want it to run a fast as possible?
I use good oil . I can get 175,000 cliks out of a bike before ever going inside. Done it a few times.
Buy the best oil you can afford....trust me. I use Motul.
IF you decide to cheap out, an' use car oil, donkey manure,or what drips from a 3 dollar hoar...just make sure the bottom of the circle is EMPTY.
See pic: you dont want anything energy conserving.
IT WILL EAT YER CLUTCH . Will you notice it slip? maybe not for a while .
Shid oil is just that....shid.
Why even take a chance....
Have a slick 1.....RSD.
you want the bottom half of the circle to contain NO WRITING
I use the Mobil 1 MX4T and it's great stuff. Thinking of changing to a "naturally" synthetic oil on my next change to give it a run. NO ADDITIVES in a "naturally" synthetic motor oil. I can't go too much into detail, but I'm a Lab Tech for an oil refinery and the hydrocracking technology is amazing. It's that ol' G-14 classified stuff.
Brian
Brian
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