Drain plug size?

noobbusaguy

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Does anyone know the engine oil drain plug size for gen3 busa?

I bought a 2023 busa and everything is overwhelming so far. Especially insurance costs. :(

Also, should I use ECSTAR R9000 or R7000 or R5000. The manual says it all good. what is the difference?

Beside full synthetic and blend and mineral.

Is there any performance difference when using full synthetic oil?

1679419156246.jpg
 
Does anyone know the engine oil drain plug size for gen3 busa?

I bought a 2023 busa and everything is overwhelming so far. Especially insurance costs. :(

Also, should I use ECSTAR R9000 or R7000 or R5000. The manual says it all good. what is the difference?

Beside full synthetic and blend and mineral.

Is there any performance difference when using full synthetic oil?

View attachment 1664358
I don’t recall the drain plug size but the gen 3 comes from factory with R7000 and that’s what I use when I do oil changes.
 
it is metric sized

it is M14 x 1,25 (same as at the gen2 and gen1 and dozens of other suzukis)
its head is 17mm wrench or ratchet nut
max. torque (with new alu ring/pinch seal) : 23 Nm


to be save , buy a thread measuring tool (some 10-15 $)
winde-gut-lesbare-groessen-21173048-0-pyGWaQMm-xxl.jpg


Gedore No. : 6549730

and try that (if u know how to use :lol: ).
 
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The crush washer is standard over all the generations. It's the same part number. Search a 2005, search a 2022 they all work.

Make sure the seam(fold) is facing the underside of the bolt and the flat side of the washer faces the case.

You would not believe how many drain plugs I've removed, where that seam, or fold is scarred into the aluminum of the oil pan.

The wider, smooth side will simply compress against the aluminum of the oil pan, and the fold will flatten itself against the underside of the bolt.

Suzuki p/n Gasket 09168-14004

:thumbsup:



 
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Your drain plug does not need to be replaced. Just the washer. Getting the washer off takes a little finesse with a pair of pliers each time. Do not damage the threads of the drain plug.

Once you grab the washer around the outside with a pair of pliers, you can unscrew it off of the drain plug. The new one will slide on with no effort. Make sure the flat smooth side goes against the oil pan.

Each time you do an oil change the process gets easier. Don't forget, 23 Newton meters is your torque. As it gets close to being tight you'll feel the torque wrench click. Just be gentle the first several times as you feel the washer stops crushing, and the bolt starts to tighten, and you reach the torque setting on the torque wrench.

Please be careful not to over torque the drain plug beyond 23 Newton meters. Many a new Hayabusa owner has over tightened that bolt and stripped the drain pan threads. They are aluminum and they can be stripped. After that it gets expensive.

A little practice and you'll have it down perfect.
 
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The crush washer is standard over all the generations. It's the same part number. Search a 2005, search a 2022 they all work.

Make sure the seam(fold) is facing the underside of the bolt and the flat side of the washer faces the case.

You would not believe how many drain plugs I've removed, where that seam, or fold is scarred into the aluminum of the oil pan.

The wider, smooth side will simply compress against the aluminum of the oil pan, and the fold will flatten itself against the underside of the bolt.

Suzuki p/n Gasket 09168-14004

:thumbsup:



The crush washer IS supposed to go in with the buldge to the top, and it IS supposed to 'crush' into the tapered end of the drain bolt thread, that is what prevents it from leaking.
Putting the flat end against the pan is the same as using a flat washer.
The crush washer material is softer than the drain bolt threads, so it will not damage them.
That is why you have removed so many that way...because they were in right, lol
:beerchug:
 
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