Driven D axis rearsets
- Thread starter ZeePopo
- Start date
You will face this with a lot of aftermarket rear sets. Some include new spring etc,and install goes smoothly.
Hassle free install is what I got with these from Arashi. Bolt on,no issue,adjustable,look good,feel good.They use some stock parts,others replaced.
They get my seal...
Less than 200$ CDN including shipping.
Rubb.
How high do they raise the pegs compared to stock?
Mythos
Registered
I have Sato Rearsets and Vortex. If you want to retain function of the rear brake light with rearsets, the brake pedal requires a pressure sensor switch. It's just a banjo bolt on the rear brake MC that reacts to fluid pressure. The wire from the pressure sensor goes to the OEM wiring just like the OEM brake light switch. You can't use the OEM brake light switch with rearsets because they don't have a mount for it. You can use any rear brake light pressure switch. One with a 90° boot works nicely for the busa.
You can get these for a lot more $$ but it's probably the same thing.
www.wish.com
You can get these for a lot more $$ but it's probably the same thing.
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I will get you a measurement my friend. It will be a reverse measurement from aftermarket rearset peg to some where on the frame. You can do the same measurement and subtract. For me to measure from ground to peg would be pointless as I have air-ride suspension and don't know where stock riding height is any more.
Rubb.
Measured from top of peg to center of bolt that holds seat on (should be same on both sides but used shifter side).
13" exact. There is another set of holes to raise the rearsets higher and further back.Factor another 1/4 inch into your equation.(greater ground clearance achieved). Your measurement minus mine gives you the ground clearance number you will achieve.
The aftermarket goodie @Mythos was kind enuff to post is not required with these 'sets. Use the stock brake lit switch with the new spring supplied.Bird droppings are of course...extra.
Shifter goes on smooth with supplied longer shift rod and supplied pivot on the new 'set bracket. Use stock pivot on shift shaft.
Done.
Hope the info is useful.
Rubb.
Mythos
Registered
Well....if we're talking ground clearance for cornering, it gets a little more complicated.
Height of peg
Length of peg
Beveled bottom of peg
The distance the footpegs stick out is as significant as the height of the pegs---maybe even more so. Think: your pegs are 0ne inch higher, GOOD. They stick out a quarter inch more than stock, you just pretty much duplicated the cornering clearance of the stock pegs when the bike is in a lean.
....because A) the pegs protrude farther and B) the bottom of rearsets are not beveled like OEM pegs are. The bevel actually increases cornering clearance a huge amount without even needing to raise the pegs.
When I installed my Vortexes on the ZX-14, I put them as high and as far back as they would go. I carefully measured with a tape measure from the BOTTOM tip of the pegs to a line dead center below the bike. The Vortexes were higher than stock when at vertical. BUT they stick out farther than stock too. Go into a lean and the increased height is more or less nullified because the tip of the longer peg reaches closer to the pavement. The un-beveled bottom of the peg brings it about a half inch closer too. This is with Vortex (which I believe adjusts as high or higher than other rearsets) on a ZX-14. IDK how it all figures in on the busa but all rearsets should be similar in terms of peg length and round(not beveled) bottom.
One thing you can do if you're serious is cut the knob off the end of the pegs. I've seen track bikes do that...or else they broke off when they crashed. Either way, you want more ground clearance in cornering, go with short pegs. Another thing you could do is grind the bottoms to a bevel like OEM pegs. I'm sure there would be a way to do that but it would be a project----the bolt that fastens the peg to the assembly goes straight down the center of the peg. You could akso fab some rearest extender brackets so you can lift them even higher than they are designed to go.
Farther back probably gains you some cornering clearance too, especially if you have a taller rear tire or raising links.
The muffler is lower and sticks out as far as a rearset so the exhaust will touch before your rearsets anyway.
One thing is for certain, the OEM footpeg assembly on the busa is way heavier than any rearsets.
Another thing, if you drop your bike, that rearset will take the blow instead of folding up. Mine did and all it did to the peg was put a little scuff on the delrin tip. Of course, there was all the rest of the damage anyway but if I had frame sliders too, might have just been a broken bar end mirror.
Rearsets are lighter and they look cooler but if you're looking for increased ground clearance for cornering, I'm not sure rearsets are the answer unless you mod them. My 02. If you just want your feet higher or lower, they help some.
Tell the truth, I don't notice a huge difference in the riding position with the rearsets on both my bikes raised and placed back both as far as they will go. Noticeable but not extreme. I think you'd have more range with literbike rearsets. Everyone uses them for road racing so they must do something. I just think the performance gain is minimal at best on the ZX-14 and the busa.
Final thought: Would you rather have your peg pivot up if you drag it or would you rather it just drag? I believe you could be certain rearsets would never touch unless you lowsided on a smaller sport bike but the hyperbikes are not designed for those lean angles...as much as we do our best to make them work for road racing.
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Yeah I should take into consideration the length and beveled end on the peg.Thx!
Thx! Quite helpful. Now to measure and see where I want my pegs to be
@Mythos gets kuddo's for an' awesome write up re: "actual" ground clearance.
4 sure.Thx! Quite helpful. Now to measure and see where I want my pegs to be
Now I chose these particular rearsets for 2 reasons.
(1) they are red & black and match my feng shui,plus,they look cool.
(2) they look cool.
Ground clearance was something I had to give up on completely because of the modifications done to my bike. I could have 6" pieces of wood for foot pegs...2x4 wood work. "Wood work"...see how I did that.
May I direct your attention to photo A. You'll notice the huge distance from the frame the end of the peg. That's because my tranny (LOL) has an' extended countershaft (OSD) to clear that fat azzed 330 rear tire. So turning sharp left's is a joke.
So left turns are out,but rights should be OK, right?
Not so much so. Peg end,not to far out from the frame.But look at that clutch pack...it sticks out maybe 60-70% further that a stock clutch cover.
Mythos good schooling for the Bro's visa ground clearance. Top shelf advice/facts.
Clearance means nothing to me as I can't ride for shi7 anyway.
Rubb.
Love that overhead view. Really shows the limitations we can run into when building our bikes.@Mythos gets kuddo's for an' awesome write up re: "actual" ground clearance.
4 sure.
Now I chose these particular rearsets for 2 reasons.
(1) they are red & black and match my feng shui,plus,they look cool.
(2) they look cool.
Ground clearance was something I had to give up on completely because of the modifications done to my bike. I could have 6" pieces of wood for foot pegs...2x4 wood work. "Wood work"...see how I did that. View attachment 1624607
View attachment 1624608...anyway,my bike is pretty close to useless as a "Canyon Carver"
May I direct your attention to photo A. You'll notice the huge distance from the frame the end of the peg. That's because my tranny (LOL) has an' extended countershaft (OSD) to clear that fat azzed 330 rear tire. So turning sharp left's is a joke.
View attachment 1624609
So left turns are out,but rights should be OK, right?
Not so much so. Peg end,not to far out from the frame.But look at that clutch pack...it sticks out maybe 60-70% further that a stock clutch cover.
View attachment 1624610
Mythos good schooling for the Bro's visa ground clearance. Top shelf advice/facts.
Clearance means nothing to me as I can't ride for shi7 anyway. View attachment 1624608
Rubb.
Hayabusa Wannabe
Registered
Great stuff @Mythos!
I am curious about the part on the bottom of the OEM pegs called the "balancer", which I see members refer to as "weights." Is the purpose of these merely to reduce vibration? Can one remove them for additional clearance and weight savings? It seems like a great deal of the excess weight of the unit may be intentionally added via said piece (?)
Most rearsets are adjustable so they can be raised when you go to the track. Most people have problems adjusting them low enough, as the mid-pipe limits how low they can be set for comfort. I have used Vortex and Satos. The Sato's are very race orientated (too high) but very well made and smooth on the controls. Frankly the Vortex I have are great. They have 3 track days on them and a lot of road miles including 3 Dragon trips. I actually am using the Vortex mounting plate for the Satos to lower them a bit so not they are comfortable for road use.
Rearsets do a couple things I don't think have been mentioned. 1 is they move your feet back, which makes the knee down turning position much more natural. I find it more generally more comfortable too. 2, they are solidly attached to the bike and don't fold up like the stockers. Stockers are probably safer on the street but to me the rearsets feel like you have more control. 3, if you are grinding hard parts on the Busa there is a good chance it is your body position. I ground the end of my Vortex footpeg until the track coach followed me and realized I was in the wrong position on turn-in and that was causing the deeper lean.
I use a hydraulic pressure switch too, as above. You can get some buzzing through the Vortex as they do not have rubber mounting bushings. The Sato's have the rubber bushings but they occasionally loosen a bit so they need to be checked periodically.
For me if you ride twisties aggressively, rearsets are a must.
Rearsets do a couple things I don't think have been mentioned. 1 is they move your feet back, which makes the knee down turning position much more natural. I find it more generally more comfortable too. 2, they are solidly attached to the bike and don't fold up like the stockers. Stockers are probably safer on the street but to me the rearsets feel like you have more control. 3, if you are grinding hard parts on the Busa there is a good chance it is your body position. I ground the end of my Vortex footpeg until the track coach followed me and realized I was in the wrong position on turn-in and that was causing the deeper lean.
I use a hydraulic pressure switch too, as above. You can get some buzzing through the Vortex as they do not have rubber mounting bushings. The Sato's have the rubber bushings but they occasionally loosen a bit so they need to be checked periodically.
For me if you ride twisties aggressively, rearsets are a must.
@Hayabusa Wannabe those weights/balancers can be removed if desired. I've done it with no ill effect felt,but thats a personal thing. If I was you I would just toss the whole peg for some nice light ones that still fold up. Better yet,new rearsets.
Stock Busa footpeg at the track...
Rubb.
Stock Busa footpeg at the track...
Rubb.
This looks familiar lol
@Hayabusa Wannabe @ZeePopo @Mythos
Had this idea many years ago. They are designed for touring to lower your feet,less ouch my bad knees is what I was thinking. But also thought they could be a good "Poor Man's" approach to raising (expensive rearsets) pegs.
Looks like the piece that holds the peg is multi-directional.Go down/up/forward/back. Go high and back for the twisties,low and forward for touring. A few tools under the seat to adjust as needed even on the road.
Mythos suggested the fold up feature and the cut away ends,both present on these. The company name does take you to an' active website,but I'm sure there are other options. Might be a neat way to have...to have it all...all.... Muhhaaaa.
Then again,could be like a dual sport motorcycle. Krap on the street,krap in the dirt...but they do do both. Krap/DoDo...
Anyway,have a look.
Mythos,tear into this like a Pitbull tears into an unattended child at the playground.
Rubb.
Had this idea many years ago. They are designed for touring to lower your feet,less ouch my bad knees is what I was thinking. But also thought they could be a good "Poor Man's" approach to raising (expensive rearsets) pegs.
Looks like the piece that holds the peg is multi-directional.Go down/up/forward/back. Go high and back for the twisties,low and forward for touring. A few tools under the seat to adjust as needed even on the road.
Mythos suggested the fold up feature and the cut away ends,both present on these. The company name does take you to an' active website,but I'm sure there are other options. Might be a neat way to have...to have it all...all.... Muhhaaaa.
Then again,could be like a dual sport motorcycle. Krap on the street,krap in the dirt...but they do do both. Krap/DoDo...
Anyway,have a look.
Mythos,tear into this like a Pitbull tears into an unattended child at the playground.
Rubb.
Mythos
Registered
@rubbersidedown There's a guy on ninjaforums that has those and likes them on his ZX-14. I think that product would just about cover all the bases except for weight loss. The busa footpeg assembly is heavy and I think that's mostly the stock heal guards. Also if a person likes to do wheelies standing up, maybe they would prefer a non folding peg. I'd like to see a larger bolt that goes through the center of the peg. That looks like just an M6. The one that fastens the adjustable arm must be M8. I guess I'd be a little careful doing standing wheelies with these even if the folding peg isn't an issue. Like the beveled bottom although again for doing wheelies, a round peg may be better if you stand up.
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