Good friend called me and said his clutch is sliping in 6th gear only 10 lbs of boost. He just bought the bike and he has a lockup clutch and says this is the only gear it slips with. Just changed his oil{15-50 mobile 1 full syn}. Do you think his springs are to soft because he says it slips then catches. I would think with a lock up at 65-70 mph his arms would be doing there thing. What say fellows?
driving through clutch?
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cdhoroho
Registered
might need a little extra weight
the springs do the initial work then the arms from there on out
or if the plates are burnt or the fibers wore a little to much that could also be a problem
so check the stack height then check the weights might need a little more on the arms if the clutches arent wore out already
the springs do the initial work then the arms from there on out
or if the plates are burnt or the fibers wore a little to much that could also be a problem
so check the stack height then check the weights might need a little more on the arms if the clutches arent wore out already
rocketgeezer
Registered
+1 on what Chris said, but question, did the clutch start acting up right after the oil was changed?
it is my understanding (not sure it is true or not) that synthetics for bikes have a friction modifier for wet clutches.. have heard of bikes having problems on "automotive" oils..AM -->
+1 on what Chris said, but question, did the clutch start acting up right after the oil was changed?cdhoroho @ Jun. 08 2008 said:
You do need the "SG" rating on the oil..
I would inspect the clutch all the same, if it was slipping in high gear, it likely generated a good amount of heat..
Thats what I think also Pinky. This bike was a dragbike that he's converted to a streetbike. Probably it was set up to slip then lock and the clutches are toast. Anyhow I'm going to help him install a new clutch pack and I'll probably put a few washers under his springs as well.
Ive made 460 hp / 280 ft*lbs on "CAR OIL" Mobil 1 Synthetic
I believe you fully Greg but my friend is sold on the "motorcycle oil" thing. I tried to tell him mobile 1 regular syn. would be fine especially with a lockup but he's convinced it's slipping because his 18 year old dealership mechanic said thats what caused it...LOL
I would bet money against that LOL
I'd bet too .
I've spoon fed information and still yet a few can't quite catch on about the Mobil 15w-50 not being cause for alarm .
Let them think what they want
I've spoon fed information and still yet a few can't quite catch on about the Mobil 15w-50 not being cause for alarm .
Let them think what they want
I do not think it is an unhealthy conversation to discuss the possible issue.. and I doubt any single answer is 100% on the $$ (seems there are never single answers that cover every possible scenario)
knowing that some bikes started to slip after the change over might indicate any one of a number of things.. As I have not seen this myself it is hard to point to a reason..
Could be the clutch in the bike was already "toast" when the oil went in.. Mobile Oil does not have a real answer (company line is use the MC oil of course)
I do know we have over the years tried all kinds of things that "will not work" in/on motors according to the "experts"
My best source of "reliable" info has been the guys running "stuff"
I will try the automotive oil myself, worse thing that could happen? new clutch? BFD... will send someone else the bill
update in 20K when I do my next oil change
knowing that some bikes started to slip after the change over might indicate any one of a number of things.. As I have not seen this myself it is hard to point to a reason..
Could be the clutch in the bike was already "toast" when the oil went in.. Mobile Oil does not have a real answer (company line is use the MC oil of course)
I do know we have over the years tried all kinds of things that "will not work" in/on motors according to the "experts"
My best source of "reliable" info has been the guys running "stuff"
I will try the automotive oil myself, worse thing that could happen? new clutch? BFD... will send someone else the bill
update in 20K when I do my next oil change
cdhoroho
Registered
used it many times here too
im actually going to go to lucas oil syn. or im going to go to royal purple syn (both car oils) either one at 20w50
never had problems with it and have known what the true cause is with clutches
well i hope your buddy will find the true problem sooner or later
but im still sticking to my original thought on it
im actually going to go to lucas oil syn. or im going to go to royal purple syn (both car oils) either one at 20w50
never had problems with it and have known what the true cause is with clutches
well i hope your buddy will find the true problem sooner or later
but im still sticking to my original thought on it
Hey boosted
What do you say about picking up a few engine oil lab kits , I'll give you my email address for the lab to send E copies to and lets take a looksee inside your engine and see how the oil holds up and how the boosted engine affects those dykes style rings in the K8 , among other . I don't offer that to just anyone but you posted something the other day that i appreciated .
http://www.butlermachinery.com/service....ing.asp
Express that your not interested in looking at the TBN .
I use that lab because of it's accuracy and quick turn around . Generaly all the labs " one charges way too much " comment on the result but these motorcycle engines and brands of them have different DNA signatures due to the various metalurgy used and can be affected by the brand and type of the finished oil product used in the engine and i have seen about all of the oils and engines over the last umpteen years to recently include the K8 Busa that has a small twist in the DNA .
Being able to correctly interpit the results is as important as the accuracy of the lab . There's the lab , I am at your command sir
Why guess when you can verify ?
What do you say about picking up a few engine oil lab kits , I'll give you my email address for the lab to send E copies to and lets take a looksee inside your engine and see how the oil holds up and how the boosted engine affects those dykes style rings in the K8 , among other . I don't offer that to just anyone but you posted something the other day that i appreciated .
http://www.butlermachinery.com/service....ing.asp
Express that your not interested in looking at the TBN .
I use that lab because of it's accuracy and quick turn around . Generaly all the labs " one charges way too much " comment on the result but these motorcycle engines and brands of them have different DNA signatures due to the various metalurgy used and can be affected by the brand and type of the finished oil product used in the engine and i have seen about all of the oils and engines over the last umpteen years to recently include the K8 Busa that has a small twist in the DNA .
Being able to correctly interpit the results is as important as the accuracy of the lab . There's the lab , I am at your command sir
Why guess when you can verify ?
No , you seem only confused about it as are many other motorcycle riders on this subject . Here's some help on the subject that could help others
Page 2-3 of the GSX1300R owners manual . Get them out .
Engine Oil
Oil quality is a major contributor to your engine's performance and life . Always select good quality oil . Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or equivilent engine oil . Use oil with an API " American Petroleum Institute " classification of SF/SG or SH/SJ , or with a JASO classification of MA .
There it is folks . Oil classifications developed for the industry and end product consumer . These are tools to use for purchasing engine oils but the manual leaves something key out and that is , a minimum API rating of XX.... Lets take a look at what Suzuki is recommending .
First off , the API SF and SG classifications for the minimum level of additive and base oil performance is now obsolete . I would not want to run that old stuff anyway as base oils and additive technology has come along way since those two's time . Now whats a person to do ? Easy , read that these newer oils , the SJ , SL and SM are backwards compatable as in , just as good as , and more likely better oils than than those oils from yesteryear .
API Service Categories by year including the obsoletes
Suzuki just wants to make sure the owner chooses an oil that meets or exceeds that API service category . The wording in the Suzuki Genuine Maintanence Care PDF demonstrates that they are . Read the paragraph under the Suzuki Performance 4-Cycle Motorcycle Engine Oils
http://www.suzukicycles.com/Accesso....LOG.pdf
Page 2-4 in the owners manual goes on about the use of Energy Conserving oils from API SH up to current and shows the image of the API donut found on the containers . 10w-40 EC oils are very few and far between . The typical 10w-40 EC rated oil is usually built to shear early into the sequence tests making for a lower viscosity to help pass said sequence tests . Take a 10-40 sheared to solid 30wt along with some crankcase fuel dillution these can become a 20wt under certain conditions and for that reason alone I would avoid those oils . Secondary reason is not enough phosforus for what i want out of an oil . Thats my opinion however .
I think it does matter that the JASO Implementation Panel does allow Energy Conserving ILSAC GF-1 GF-2 GF-3 oils to be submitted for testing and that the JASO MA oils are friction modified .
There is alot more to it though . This should suffice for the mainstream in regards to what the manual is saying .
.
