dropped .1 off my 60' last night

busa_bill

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My first time ever at the track on any bike, the best I could manage was a 2.04 60' on my '06. That was a month ago.
Last night was my second night, and I managed a pair of 1.94 60's.
So I improved from totally worthless to just plain sad.
I think I'm concentrating too hard on what the front end is doing, and I'm forgetting to crank the throttle all the way.
I'm told the front wheel raises about 6" and then goes right down. Having an issue I guess wrapping up on the throttle enough to where I can crack it totally open.
This must be the intimidating point for new drag racers.
I would prefer to "ease" into the solution.

Any tips appreciated.
 
Is your bike lowered? Lowering the bike and putting a strap on the front should help you a bit. Just try to relax and be smooth. It takes practice and more practice!!!!
 
have fun with it. when you concentrate too hard, that's when you mess up or go up in the air. Now if you have the stock gearing and don't have a clutch mod, then your 60 ft. is not going to go down but so much... but practice, practice, practice....
 
Like streaker said, practice, practice, practice! Start low rpm, roll throttle on while you slide clutch out. Get comfy, leave higher and higher.
 
Strap the frond end down. Strap costs $20 at any bike shop. Lower the rear air pressure. First two basic steps.
If your having problems getting to full throttle ( Like I did ) Rotate the throttle bar forward. ie: loosen and rotate the front brake lever down. This will help with a little higher launch rpm ( 4000 is sufficient believe it or not ) and you'll obtain full throttle easier without breaking your wrist.
If you are planning on drag racing the bike more often I highly recommend dropping a tooth off the front sprocket. I think this is the way the bike should be set up from the factory. Rides MUCH better on the street too for everyday driving. If you don't want to get into the front sprocket you can achieve the same thing by going up 3 teeth in the rear.
Still learning to launch myself. Had the same fears as you. Bike isn't as lift easy as some have expressed unless you just pop the clutch.
 
Strap the front!

I have raced many time with front straped with desent results

last friday raced with out strap (was getting too much wear) and flipped my bike hard
 
Appreciate the tips.
I will strap the front before I do anything else.

Is the purpose of lowering the air pressure in the rear tire to lower the bike, or prevent wheel spin?
The track I go to has very good lane prep. I'm currently able to launch without a burnout and at 42 psi. I was only going to lower the pressure when I launched hard enough to get wheel spin. That hasn't happened yet, but I can go down on pressure if the purpose is to set the bike down just a tad.

Gearing - I'm riding the bike 100 miles a day to work and back. Right now I'm getting 42 mpg cruising in 6th at 3750 rpm's. Although it would be nice to launch a little harder when I go to the track once a month, I think my priorities lay right now with the MPG.
That is unless a slight gear change would have only very minimal effect on cruising RPM.

Thanks again!
 
Strap the bike, but leave enough travel to avoid a tankslapper (about an inch works for me), no need to let air out of the rear unless it's spinning, it'll just slow you down. The key is to get to wfo throttle as quickly as possible, don't be afraid to carry the front wheel a little. I know it feels like the tire is 10 feet in the air, but it will come up a lot higher than you think before it gets dangerous. I don't know how much mileage you will lose with a 16t front, but it will really wake the bike up. Smoothly out on the clutch, while pinning the throttle as quickly as you can. Practice, practice practice!
 
I practiced for over one year and the best I can manage is 1.8x 60' times. Usually I am in that range now due to repeating my bad technique so many times. I still run the stock gears and OEM rubber with the suspension set for corner carving. Usually, I can run 35 psi in the rear tire and launch without a burnout and no spin at my track. I tried all the easy gear changes and settled back on stock but, I go less than 137 so I only run the first three gears. I am not drag racing much anymore since the stock Busa basically kicked my ego into the trash can at the track but, since I usually ride long and hard on the street, I have found that with the stock gearing and the suspension set nice it is a great grand touring machine that can really cover distances in relative comfort and style. And, although the Busa is heavy and you feel it when braking hard and when tossing it into corners, it actually handles really well overall.
I am just having to accept that not everyone can hammer a stock Busa hard out of the hole. I still am too scared of the wheel coming up on me to go for a super hard launch, and, from experience, the bike really thumps down so hard from up in the air that I was seriously concerned about stuff bending or breaking.
But practice and being relaxed definitely do help.
 
dont worry too much about mpg with different gears-I run 16/42 on the street and i get 42-38 depending on how much time I spend above 100mph...so i usually get 37mpg
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(BigDiesel @ Sep. 19 2006,14:12) dont worry too much about mpg with different gears-I run 16/42 on the street and i get 42-38 depending on how much time I spend above 100mph...so i usually get 37mpg  
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My tune must be bad or something since last time I rode with my buddy on his ZX-12R we both got right around 30 mpg with stock gears and, we both just about ran out of gas at the same time. We were riding right along, but, my brother was back there on his 1987 MotoGuzzi Lemans, so we were cooling it on the straightaways. Of course, my brother only got 34 mpg on the Guzzi, but it was running way rich up in the mountains where we were riding. Fuel injection sure makes bikes easier to ride as elevation changes. I have not seen 40 mpg in a year. And, shorter gearing did cost me mileage. With the 16/42 gears I lost 1-2 mpg.
Actually, I have never seen a bike as thirsty as my Busa. But, at least it uses 87 octane.
 
ok you want 2 knock a 1/2 second off that next time you go to track? pingle


have a shop remove your unishock 1 hour laber but really need chain hoist to do it .Then bolt these brackets on have to remove tailpiece not hard at all.Then let the air in your rear tire to 10lbs and heat the heck out of it in second put it back in first bring it to 7 grand at line slip the clutch out prob a 1.50 right off.
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im getting 1.60 but i weigh 260lbs if i had a shinko on then 1.40,s with stock busa easy.
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whats your gearing??? drop the front 1 its cheap around 25$ or so and go up 2 on rear.Stock chain will work fine.i have 42,43.44 for my busa currently running 42 i went 6.40 on my old 02 busa with 16-44 gearing slick+bar on stock busa 260lb rider
 
(BUSA KIDD 06 @ Sep. 20 2006,16:42) whats your gearing??? drop the front 1 its cheap around 25$ or so and go up 2 on rear.Stock chain will work fine.i have 42,43.44 for my busa currently running 42  i went 6.40 on my old 02 busa with 16-44 gearing slick+bar on stock busa 260lb rider
Not meaning to be rude, but with sissy bars you should have way better short times. I have run 1.5x short times consistently, best et of 6.34 with a 6 over arm without all the hassle of bars. I weigh about what you do, (270) stock motor, shifter, shinko, 16/43, strap and bones.
 
not to be rude as well but i have seen better than that without the use of the baby extension,My buddy that purchased my 02 gets 1.40 with a stock arm.
 
(BUSA KIDD 06 @ Sep. 20 2006,19:59) not to be rude as well but i have seen better than that without the use of the baby extension,My buddy that purchased my 02 gets 1.40 with a stock arm.
How much weight in the front of the 02?
I am by no means an accomplished racer, but I do okay for a big guy with a slow bike!
 
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